110.28132411 Kenmore washer Won't fill and F7 E5 code.

[Viper63]

Model Number

110.28132411

Brand

Sears Kenmore

Age

1-5 years

Greetings all I have a Kenmore 700 series washer that I have had for 2 years.

Push start, the door latch engages, the washer starts the load sensing process (both drum and agitator turn), the washer goes to wash cycle (wash light comes on), then the machine goes to load complete with no wash done at all and the washer does not fill with water.

I noticed that the door latch does not disengage and I have to unplug the machine and plug it back in to get the latch to release.

I ran the diagnostic test and it returned the F7E5 code which points to the shifter. I checked the connections underneath and it appears the the wires are connected and in good shape.

I ran the manual testing mode program where you can individually select cold water fill, hot water fill, slow spin, slow agitate, etc. Neither the cold water fill nor the hot water fill worked, I selected slow/medium/fast agitate and the impeller would turn but the drum would not. I selected slow/medium/fast spin and the impeller would turn but not the drum.

I checked the water inlet valves for resistance and they all were in the 980 Ohms range, I checked hoses, filters, and water pressure and everything seemed fine.

I am inclined to replace the water inlet valve but the F7E5 shifter code gives me pause. If the machine detects an issue with the shifter will it not fill with water?

I appreciate any help.

 

[Jake]

Hi,

In manual test mode it should fill with water even if the shift actuator is bad.

Here's the tech. data sheet for your model: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ofJhcJP0-NeEEDgLJfYm5JxLaMFvdtQm

See TEST #2: Valves, page 15.
See TEST #1: Main Control (ACU), page 14.

Another member had this same problem and it was the Main Control (ACU) that was bad.

Here's the Main Control (ACU) for your model: W10916646 Cntrl-Elec

Let us know what you find.

Jake

 

[Viper63]

Thank you Jake. I will test the other components and let you know how it goes.

 

[Jake]

Ok Viper, sounds good.

Let us know.

Jake

 

[Viper63]

Greetings all. The inlet valve now works and water is flowing again. I uh.....ehem......sort of forgot to reconnect the inlet valve wiring harness to the control board. Oopsy. I got under the beast and noticed some burn marks/melting on the plastic connectors that go to the motor/shifter. Some of the connectors look corroded as well as if they got wet. I am going to clean up the contacts on the connectors and see what happens. I might need a whole new wiring harness? Anyhow the adventure continues.

 

[Jake]

The inlet valve now works and water is flowing again. I uh.....ehem......sort of forgot to reconnect the inlet valve wiring harness to the control board.

Ok Viper, don't feel bad, I've done that a few times myself.

Let us know how it goes.

Jake

 

[Viper63]

Update. I have tested voltage and continuity between the shifter and the control board connector as the service manual recommends and everything checks out. I removed the stator and the shifter and the shaft does turn freely and there didn't appear to be any wear/rub between the shifter and the shaft.

After I put everything back together the impeller will not turn and I am getting an f7 e9 fault for locked motor. I will do the tests for the motor drive next. I just want to wash my clothes!!!

 

[Jake]

Ok Viper, yes keep us posted when you do the motor test.

F7E9 Locked Rotor
Fault is displayed when the main control determines that the motor Rotor is not moving when it is being actively driven.
• Mechanical friction on drive mechanism or basket (items between basket and tub).
• See TEST #3: Drive System, page 15 or TEST #3b: Drive System – Motor Page 16

Jake

 

[Viper63]

Greetings, I pulled the drum shaft and it is absolutely trashed. When you turn the shaft it turns freely but squeaks. When you shake the base plate you can hear what sounds like rocks inside. I am guessing it is a bearing inside the plate. Of course you cannot take the base plate apart to replace the bearing you have to buy the whole assembly. I've priced it at $254 for a new drum shaft, not sure I want to put that much into this washer. I am considering just cutting bait and buying a new one. Frustrating for sure.

 

[Jake]

Glad to hear you found the problem Viper.

Its $176 here:

Whirlpool W10811956 Gearcase - AppliancePartsPros.com

GEARCASE W10811956 / AP5983785 made by Whirlpool

click.linksynergy.com

Jake