FIXED 110.28922790 Kenmore 90 series loud clunk while switching fill to rinse

Theirons84

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2017
Messages
28
Location
AL
Model Number
110.28922790
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
More than 10 years
90 series washer. Stopped working mid cycle while in the rinse cycle. Had to dip all water out to be able to turn it over to check it out. Attempts to turn but just buzzes.

coupler is good, as I have replaced that before. It is intact and functioning properly, not stripped out in the shaft or anything.

Pulled pump off, checked. No sock stuck or anything obstructing it. Had that problem before too.

Have not yet checked the clutch or the band inside the drum yet.

Motor spins freely and transmission shaft spins freely.

I will check to see what happens while someone pulls the switch to the on position while I observe the motor area and report back.

Any ideas on what to look for?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,765
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

Try it on slow speed and see if the motor runs.

If not, lets narrow it down, remove the motor and lay it on the floor with the electrical still hooked-up to it, and let it run by-itself and see if it runs fine. If not feel if the motor gets super hot when its buzzing.

Take the cabinet off the machine so you can access the motor better if you haven't already.

To remove the cabinet watch this video here: Whirlpool/Kenmore Top-Load Direct Drive Washer Disassembly Video

You will need to by-pass the lid switch when you put it in spin with the cabinet off. Read here: Bypass Direct drive washer lid switch from consol plug

Once the cabinet is off your washer, you will see the red motor switch on the right side of the motor where the electrical harness plugs into to it, just unsnap it and look for burnt terminals in both the electrical connector and motor switch.

Here's the motor for your model:
WP3352287 Motor-Drive


Here's the capacitor for your model:
WP8572720 Capacitor


Jake
 

Theirons84

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2017
Messages
28
Location
AL
Thanks for the reply, Jake. I have made some progress and believe it may be a short or electrical fault of some sort.

I had taken the cap off of the motor and tested and found it good, so I put it back on. The washer then proceeded to spin as usual, so we know there is no mechanical issue.

I stood the washer back up and somewhat pushed it back into its spot, and checked again to be sure, and again...more humming.

I then worked with the lid switch and eventually bypassed it all together to rule it out. The humming continued with bypass in place, and the switch appears to be in good condition anyway. I removed the bypass and remounted as original.

I got it to spin one more time eventually by some stroke of luck, but it has gone back to humming. The noise sounds like it is coming from up high in the back of the machine so I am suspecting the timer switch?

I don't know what else would be connected electronically that the machine would have to go through to complete a run signal - that could be making that noise. I also noticed it is sometimes a slight humming all the way up to a very obnoxious humming, or anywhere in between.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,765
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, yes the problem on yours sounds like the timer contacts are wearing out and causing this issue.

Here's the timer for your model you can order:
WP3951769 Timer-Washer


Jake
 

Theirons84

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2017
Messages
28
Location
AL
New timer installed, same problem. I don't know what to look for from here. Thinking maybe the cap on the motor really is bad. I don't have a legitimate way of testing it (that I know of). I found a few ways on YouTube that seem close, but I am skeptical.

Why would it have come on a few times since it went down like nothing was wrong?

Could be a short, but not sure on that either.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,765
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
You can test the capacitor with a analog meter, watch the video it will show you how to do that. Unplug the washer first.


Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,765
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
If the capacitor is good per the analog meter test in the video above, then it has to be the motor that's the culprit.:)

You did say it was humming when the motor was running alone on the floor with the pump off too?

Jake
 

Theirons84

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2017
Messages
28
Location
AL
Went out and bought a good True RMS meter because I should have a long time ago. Anyway, I have capacitor check capability now. My cap says a range between 270-324 uF. It measures 307 uF, and does not dead short on resistance.

I'm sure I can refund the timer switch, but I don't even want to know what a motor costs for this thing. Are there no user serviceable parts in it? Is it possible to replace or service the MSS (per the schematic)?

I'm guessing it has something to do with the relay or MSS or Motor start switch? Is this some type of relay?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,765
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
It could be the motor or motor switch.

Either the centrifugal mechanism in the motor is not working or the motor switch is bad. The start winding in the motor is only meant to have power applied for the 1-2 seconds it takes to start the motor and then it is switched out of circuit by the centrifugal mechanism activating the motor switch. If it doesn't disconnect the start winding, it will burn up the capacitor and can damage the winding. You can test the switch and see if it's bad.

If the washer works ok on slow speed, then the centrifugal mechanism in the motor is working. Unplug the washer, then Check continuity between the two outermost terminals of the switch. With the switch in place, it should read as a dead short. Pulling the switch away from the motor releases the switch lever arm and now the reading should be an open circuit.



Here's the motor switch for your model:
Manufacturer's Number: WP8529896


Here's the motor for your model:
Motor WP3352287


Jake
 

Theirons84

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2017
Messages
28
Location
AL
The washer does not run on slow speed. None of the speeds make any difference.

Took the motor out today and checked everything. I inspected contacts and they appeared burnt, and I immediately thought this was the problem. Took all contacts out of the switch and resurfaced with sandpaper, similar to the way points ignition are done.

Checked and continuity was correct as you stated above. Dead short when installed on thr motor and the arm is depressing the switch. Open circuit when removed.

Really thought those contacts were the culprit, but after reinstalling I am still getting the hum.

So if it doesn't run on slow speed, I guess this means the centrifugal mechanism is bad?

Just trying to be absolutely sure here before I spend the money on a new motor.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,765
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
So if it doesn't run on slow speed, I guess this means the centrifugal mechanism is bad?
Correct, so the motor itself would be the problem then. You can order the motor from my link to it above.

Jake
 

Theirons84

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2017
Messages
28
Location
AL
Brand new motor is in and still getting the hum...really frustrated now. What else is there to check? Will not run on fast, medium, or slow.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,765
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
That's very strange.

When you have it in the spin cycle, Measure the voltage between the blue wire and the white wire and the blue wire and the yellow wire. Should be 120 volts for both.

Jake
 

Theirons84

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2017
Messages
28
Location
AL
Will check when I get home. I have an appliance parts place locally that has parts and also a Grainger. I am going to see if either has the motor capacitor today. If so, I am going to pick that up to rule it out. I have read that sometimes caps can read good but actually be bad. They are cheap so it will be good insurance. If neither place has it I will have to order, so it may be next week before I check that off the list. Either way I will report back with voltage tests on those wires.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,765
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, sounds good, yes keep us posted.

Jake
 

Theirons84

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2017
Messages
28
Location
AL
105 volts to either of those checks. Got new cap in, and the strange thing is that it is the correct part number but it has a different mF rating. The old one is 270-324, new is like 324 -389. Still getting the buzz, even with the new cap installed. For the time it took me to pull the switch and get under there with a meter, it started to smell like something electrical burning. Again, I can freely turn the coupler link and nothing is binding. The motor is not getting a signal to even turn. Also tried all the speed settings.

I pulled and reconnected each plug on the back of every switch up in the top.

Never been beat by something like this before. I have no idea what it is doing.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,765
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
105 volts is too low, but you already replaced the timer, so check for a short in your wiring from the timer to the motor.

Jake
 

Theirons84

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2017
Messages
28
Location
AL
It is just the simple run of wiring that goes in through the top and drops to the bottom? It doesn't make any stops along the way does it?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,765
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes. it should be.

It doesn't make any stops along the way does it?
Not that I'm aware of.

Jake
 

Theirons84

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2017
Messages
28
Location
AL
Found the problem. There was a short between each red wire and the blade connector that attaches to the cap. In other words, no continuity between the end of the wire and the connector itself.

That explains the buzzing...the cap was essentially out of the circuit and the motor was trying to start but couldn't.

So I soldered new connectors on. Each and every original piece is back in the washer and it works just like it did. Sort of...

Wife promptly threw a large load of clothes in and we fired it up. Came back a few minutes later to find it overfilled with water and flooded the floor. Stopped it and dipped out some of the water to get it down to whatbwoulf normally be full. Started it back up to let it finish out, and waited for it to spin out the water from the wash cycle and was standing by to watch while it filled to see if tried to over till again.

It never put any water in, and went right into what would be the rinse agitation. Realizing something was wrong, I pulled all the clothes out and spun the switch back over to the very start to see if I could get it to pull water in. Nothing. It just keeps going directly to the agitation. Almost like the fill switch or fill level thing is stuck or something isn't right.

What does it sound like? What can I check?
 
Top