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FIXED 110.42922200 Sears Kenmore HE3T - Door Latch Issue

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Yup, then your CCU is bad, you can order it from my post#17 of this thread.

All parts you order through our links come with a 365 day full refund, less shipping, if you install it and it doesn't fix it.

Hey Jake, I am having the exact same problem as this...changed the door latch also....did diagnostic with same error f/dl Where is this CCU unit located
Ok Jeff, sounds good, keep us posted.

Ok, for your model you need this one:

Here's the CCU(Machine Control Board), its located on the top back portion of your washer, just removing the top panel you can access it:
Whirlpool WP8182687 Electronic Control Board


Check your door switch button, its just above the door latch, sometimes that button has broken, or the door has dropped abit, not aligning correctly.


Thanks Jake,
The way to tell if the switch is broken is that inside of the round circle there should be a pin protruding from the round hole. If it's broken you see the hole but no pin like the picture shows.
Here's the picture below, see the button broken just above the top torx screw?

(click to enlarge)

Sorry, don't mean to beat a dead horse. All the above, done, except do an ohm test. Where do I access this on model #110.45962400? The dryer is stacked on top, will that be an issue?
Thank you for your help.
Hi Rick,

Yes, you'd need to remove the dryer from the top of your washer first to access the CCU to ohm test the door latch lock assembly.

Here's the door latch switch assembly for your model if you need to order it:

You will need a multimeter to do a ohm test on the door lock switch solenoids at the CCU, the CCU is underneath your top panel on the washer.

Disconnect that wire connector from the CCU and take the ohm reading from that connector alone.

Machine has to be unplugged before testing.


Ive developed the same problem.

Found the small pin broke off. Made a temp repaIr as described previously and worked good for one load and now back to no loud click...

Cant find that little switch with the black pin in my parts breakdown.
The latch assembly listed previously is in the door isnt it? Have looked at all the pictures and dont see the pin? THe switch with the broke black pin is in the tub...
I see it now. The picture on the sears website shows the pin better and I can see where the screw goes in right below the pin. Ordering it now. Will clean the CCU connections too while im in there.
Here's the picture below, see the button broken just above the top torx screw?

(click to enlarge)

Yes, take the old connector to a local electronics store in your area so they can match it up.

Having same issues. F22 code. I replaced door lock, checked and cleaned terminals. Still have code present. Any suggestions?

What is the model number of your washer? The model number tag is located inside the door.


A Door Lock Error occurs if the door cannot be locked. It will try
to lock it six times before displaying the error code.

Possible Causes/Procedure: Door lock mechanism is broken or removed from door.

Door switch/lock unit failure.
1. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
2. Check door switch/lock unit.
3. Check the wire harness connections to the door switch/lock unit and Central Control Unit (CCU).

You will want to check the wire harness connections to the door latch lock switch assembly and CCU to make sure that they are not broken or detached. Make sure the connector internal pins are visible.

FOR YOUR CCU: Take the top panel off, should be 3 screws on the back of the top panel. Then look at your CCU, and remove the wire connections from it and inspect the wiring in the connectors to make sure non of the pins are broken or burned. Then reset all the connectors back to the CCU and see if that fixes it, if not then your CCU would need to be replaced.

Do the same check for the door latch lock assembly wire harness as well.

Realize this is an old thread, but I have a rather old Kenmore Elite HE3t front loader that's been giving me the SUD code. Followed the great direction given here and managed to get the door open, find my tech sheet, and run the diagnostic test. Everything went smooth, right up until the end when it wouldn't unlock again after going through everything else. It locked from the unlocked position just fine at the start of the test, but will not open again at its conclusion.

I assume this means there are two separate solenoids, one distinct one for each function? Haven't messed with the CCU tabs where the harness attaches. The pin/button on the face of where the door closes is not broken and functions fine, although the door does seem to sag somewhat, but as it engages the latch it corrects it attitude and properly meets the button and depresses it. Was all ready to order a new latch until I saw other who had replaced the latch were still having the same issues reappear.
Hi Galt,

You need to start a new thread with your model number please. Then we can assist you on how to test your door latch/lock assembly.


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