110.4767292 Kenmore 70 Series Washer - clank/grinding noise on spin

[jamdat]

Model Number

110.4767292

Brand

Sears Kenmore

Age

More than 10 years

Hello!

I have a Kennmore 70 series model 110.4767292 top load washer that is making a clanking/hammering and grinding sound on spin. It works fine on agitate. The grinding-type sound has been going on for a little bit but everything was still working fine so I left it. Now the hammering started and it sounded like the machine was going to break apart so I stopped using it.
I've removed the front cover and also removed the pump to eliminate it as cause of noise.

Some videos:
With agitator agitating:

Spoiler: Reveal video

With agitator spinning. You can hear the periodic grinding sound as well as the loud bangs:

Spoiler: Reveal video

Taking the agitator out stopped the banging. I think it was the agitator dogs slamming into the sides. But the grinding sound remains. It isn't continuous so I don't think it's a tub bearing. The shaft attached to the agitator does not appear to spin smoothly (I think this is causing the sound with the dogs). I added tape so I could see the rotation. Still no sound during agitation.

Video with no impeller agitating:

Spoiler: Reveal video

Video with no impeller spinning:

Spoiler: Reveal video

I then removed the drum to see if it was the drive block that I had heard about. Taking the drum totally out did not eliminate the sound so maybe it's not the drive block? Again no sound during agitation. During spin the central shaft seemed to go into agitate for a second. I don't know why.

Drive block only during agitate:

Spoiler: Reveal video

Drive block only during spin:

Spoiler: Reveal video

Removing the drive block does not fix the sound. The drive block looked like it was in good condition (i.e. not rounded, tabs still there). Still fine on agitation. Only spin has the problem. The videos below show the outer shaft spins smoothly but the longer inner shaft hesitates.

Bare shaft agitate:

Spoiler: Reveal video

Bare shaft spin:

Spoiler: Reveal video

Other posts and searching showed it could be the clutch. But typical clutch problems are that the drum does not spin or spins slowly. Mine spins but the internal shaft seems to not spin properly.
Could this be the neutral drain mechanism inside the transmission I hear about?

Are there any other tests I can perform? I'm not sure how to isolate the clutch/brake/transmission as the source of the problem. Maybe someone has heard or seen this before? Any help in figuring out this issue would be appreciated!

Thank you.

 

[rickgburton]

Mine spins but the internal shaft seems to not spin

That's correct. During the spin cycle the transmission shaft is in "freewheel" mode. You can hold the agitator with your hand in a spin cycle. Check the coupler between the motor and transmission.

 

[jamdat]

That's correct. During the spin cycle the transmission shaft is in "freewheel" mode. You can hold the agitator with your hand in a spin cycle. Check the coupler between the motor and transmission.

Hi
Ok, that's good to know. I thought that all the shafts had to spin together.
Looking at the videos I posted, the shaft does not freewheel. It tries to turn with the drum. If I grab the shaft, I can hold it steady and the noise stops. Since it's not freewheeling, is that pointing more towards a neutral drain problem? I understand that the neutral drain is what allows the shaft to freewheel.

I checked the coupler between the motor and transmission. It looks unworn. The holes are still circular, the rubber is not flaking off and it isn't loose.

Thanks

 

[rickgburton]

the shaft does not freewheel. It tries to turn with the drum

That's caused by the centrifugal force of the basket drive spinning.

is that pointing more towards a neutral drain problem?

More towards a transmission problem. After the wash cycle completes, the machine starts the drain cycle almost immediately. After approximately two minutes the timer will pause the motor operation causing the clutch to engage the spin tube. If this happens the neutral pak is OK

 

[jamdat]

More towards a transmission problem. After the wash cycle completes, the machine starts the drain cycle almost immediately. After approximately two minutes the timer will pause the motor operation causing the clutch to engage the spin tube. If this happens the neutral pak is OK

I'll have to run a cycle and try to listen for the two minute pause and click for the neutral drain engagement.
So it's agitate -> drain -> pause -> click -> spin.

 

[rickgburton]

Correct. It might be worn teeth on the spin gear. That's actually a common problem on direct drives. You're probably going to need to drop the trans with the clutch and basket drive and do a visual on it.

 

[Jake]

110.4767292 does not pull up as good for me, Rick did it pull up good for you?

@jamdat take a photo of your model number tag and upload it here.

Jake

 

[rickgburton]

Rick did it pull up good for you?

No, probably because it's Canadian

 

[Jake]

LOL, well getting parts for it will be a challenge to say the least as Sears pulled out of Canada.

Jake

 

[rickgburton]

Anymore, looking up a transmission part just defaults to the transmission part number.

 

[Jake]

Yes, that is true.

Jake

 

[ChrisNB]

Sorry to resurrect this old thread but I have a washer that is doing this exact same thing. Was there ever a solution to this problem? I’ve removed and disassembled my transmission. I believe what could be causing the issue is a worn agitate cam and follower. Using the great info in this thread https://www.applianceblog.com/mainf...ries-washer-wont-agitate-but-does-spin.52258/
I’ve determined that the agitator shaft should not be driven or braked during the spin cycle and just rotate freely. The only way that agitator shaft could drive or brake is if the cam and follower aren’t lifting the gear up off the splines enough. Does anyone else have anything to add?

Thanks, Chris