FIXED 110.60022010 Dryer only gets warm

BadFish523

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2019
Messages
9
Location
USA
Model Number
110.60022010
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
6-10 years
Hello,

As the title says my dyer only gets warm. I have replaced the thermal fuse, the safety thermal fuse, the heating element, and both thermostats. I have checked and I'm getting 220 at the wires coming into the back of the dryer.

What else should I check? What could cause the dryer to only get warm?

Thanks,

IMG_20190328_184412.jpg
IMG_20190328_184456.jpg
IMG_20190328_184502.jpg
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Messages
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Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Most of the time when a dryer is only getting warm it's because the vent or vent hose is blocked. When there's no air flow the heat from the element piles up around the element. This causes the dryer to cycle on the on the high limit thermostat so it turns off the element prematurely and takes a long time before the thermostat closes and the element turns on and the same cycle repeats. Make sure you have good air flow from the dryer vent. Measure the temperature at the dryer vent with a meter or a meat thermometer. Drum empty and lint filter clean, set the dryer on timed dry high heat. The temperature should be around 150°F at the vent.
 

BadFish523

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2019
Messages
9
Location
USA
Rick, that sounds like good advice. I'll give it a try. I had the hose off and checked it. It is clean and the vent to outside is clean too. I'll try running empty empty and checking the temp as best I can. I will report back with my findings.
 

BadFish523

Premium Member
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Mar 28, 2019
Messages
9
Location
USA
Currently I took the lint shoot? Off. Cleaned it all out and in around the blower fan and the blower output. None were very dirty but they're almost shiny now. There is no restriction of air flow I'm running it without the hose connected. I don't have a reliable thermometer but I'll check the air coming directly out from the blower after it has ran for about 20 minutes. I could be wrong but I don't think it will be fixed. Where would you have me check next?
 

BadFish523

Premium Member
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Messages
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Location
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As I suspected, lint trap and shoot and blower clean, no hose attached, empty, I don't have a reliable thermometer but I know that the air coming out had plenty of force and was not hot. Maybe I didn't give it long enough for the safety to reset? I'll check it again tomorrow. Until then if you can think of any other tests or check please leave me a message. Thanks!
 

BadFish523

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Mar 28, 2019
Messages
9
Location
USA
And another update lol. I ran some diagnostic tests in the timer and one of the channels that was supposed to be closed was open. I have ordered a new timer. I hate throwing more parts at this thing but the tests show it's bad and after this other than the motor and the body I'll pretty much have a new dryer. I'll report back in about a week after I put in the new timer.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Messages
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Murray, Utah 84107, United States
....my dyer only gets warm.......I ran some diagnostic tests in the timer and one of the channels that was supposed to be closed was open....

Are we troubleshooting a machine that doesn't get hot enough or a machine that doesn't heat? I think the latter. What was open on the timer that made you decide to order a new one?


 

BadFish523

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2019
Messages
9
Location
USA
Sometimes it gets warm then cools back off again. Sometimes it doesn't heat up at all. According to the diagram in the back of the control panel when set to timed high heat everything read correctly except one. They're lettered and I don't remember which one but it appeared to be the hot and ground? Both larger gauge wires. I can check the exact letting tomorrow if you want. I'll post the picture of the diagram and which one was open when it should have been closed.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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That might be a good idea. If the timers internal contacts are open, the dryer wouldn't "get warm then cool back down". If the timer contacts are open, no voltage to the element. No voltage to the element, no heat (warm). Maybe you have more than one problem. Can you take a pic of the diagram on the back of the control panel and post it here?
 

BadFish523

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2019
Messages
9
Location
USA
Here is the pictures of the diagram, I was checking it on Timed High heat setting and I'm pretty sure it was C-A that showed wrong. It says on those settings it should read closed but I got an open reading.
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IMG_20190329_052956.jpg

Again thank you for your help! It is greatly appreciated!
 
Last edited:

BadFish523

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Messages
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Thats what I got coming, wont be here till Monday. Wife is getting pretty tired of having to hang clothes all over our house :)
I sure hope this fixes it. Like I said then the only thing that wont be new on the dryer will be the motor and the frame/body ect. I will also have spare parts as I've tested the other parts I switched out and they all appear to be good as well. Either way I will report back here after the new timer is in.
 

BadFish523

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Messages
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I told you I'd be back well here I am with good news! The timer fixed it! I now have a pretty much new, deep cleaned dryer!

Rick, again thank you for your help and ideas.
 
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