• Please note, some of the links on our site are affiliate links (Learn More)

110.63022101 Older Kenmore Elite Dryer was run, no heat, hopefully repaired. Now motor does not run when start let go

bmarriott13

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2020
Messages
7
Location
San Francisco Bay Area Woodacre
Model Number
110.63022101
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
More than 10 years
Hello

Thankyou for being here. Older Kenmore dryer. 110.63022101 Was running fine, but no heat. Checked heater circuit, the furthest back on the heater housing, one screw, non-reset. Bear getting to it thick arms, arthritis in hands. Easier replacing, after removing heater housing front support. Slowly got it back together. Before total reassembly, thought Ii would see if all the work equalled heat.

Well no. Can't tell. Pushed start button, motor started up, hurra.......oh, release start button, motor stops. Again and again, ,then nothing, then switch reset.
Described result in Google and ended up on this website and a discussion about and how to fix this exact problem. So went looking for the two relays spoken about.
Pulled back rear cover to console, and I don't immediately see said relays. Looking from the back left to right, 1st Start Switch, then signal switch, then Fabric Care switch, then the timer switch. I am only guessing its older. When I moved in this house 10 yrs ago,, it was in the garage as previous tenets had purchased more efficient modern model,
I have used it constantly. Raised two kids from pre-teen to adult, and I work in a machine shop and get pretty dirty sometimes, ao at least two loads a week if not more. So I have gotten good use from it, but really don't have resources to replace. Unless its free 8*)

So any suggestions? Thank you for your time

Bill Marriott
bmarriott13
Woodacre, CA
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
112,898
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi Bill,

Your model doesn't use the motor or heat relay, that's only the evenheat models that used those. First ohm test the door switch.

Here's the door switch for your model:
Door Switch WP3406107


When you click the link to the door switch, you will see a video to ohm test it, and a video to access it.:)

Make sure you unplug the dryer before ohm testing it.

If the door switch is fine, then the problem might be the motor centrifugal switch.

The motor might be blocked with lint build up and keeping the switch from closing all the way, like Rick mentions in post #58 here:

Here's the motor for your model:
Drive Motor 279787


Make sure the dryer stays unplugged when checking the motor centrifugal switch.

Jake
 

bmarriott13

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2020
Messages
7
Location
San Francisco Bay Area Woodacre
Thanks, am making time tonite for more appliance work.
Please remember, was starting fine till I replaced worked on the no heat but runs problem.
Hopefully fixed, but need to start correctly.
OK, test door switch
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
112,898
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
You posted a quote with no reply from you, can you please reply again, don't click the reply button, just start typing in the editor box.

Thanks, Jake!
 

bmarriott13

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2020
Messages
7
Location
San Francisco Bay Area Woodacre
OK, interesting read on the centrifugal switch. Many different approaches talked about, think I will just stay here, and see what is advised as to testing the cf switch. I had a real battle testing and then replacing the 'non resettable'
You posted a quote with no reply from you, can you please reply again, don't click the reply button, just start typing in the editor box.

Thanks, Jake!
Hi; I cannot figure out what you mean exactly. Door switch seems fine the only way I see to add a follow up except to hit the post reply
button..
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
112,898
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok Bill, sounds good!

Thanks!
 

bmarriott13

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2020
Messages
7
Location
San Francisco Bay Area Woodacre
Hello; Getting ready for more dryer work. Share house with person who wants to throw money at the issue, rent a truck, and drive for an hour .(im at 949730)
Quick background 40 years of managing, engineering, bathroom cleaning, two machine shops, working on glass and silicon, so many devices taken apart, troubleshoot, FIXED!, So to really tell what is going on, I will pull the drum, remove motor, attach pigtail for 110 power, and go from there.

I'll get back to you

BillMarriott
bmarriott13
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
112,898
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok Bill, sounds good.

Jake
 

bmarriott13

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2020
Messages
7
Location
San Francisco Bay Area Woodacre
Hi;
So I have been sort of dancing around getting this dryer fixed, last week of the month is always busy at the optic shop, but things are sort of slow, so have been reading, and watching video up the wa-zo, I am starting to understand how my dryer works, and I have to admit, it is a elegant design that brings two pathways of 120 volts together, one through the timer switch to the series of heat sensors to the heating coils. the other triggered by the somewhat mysterious centrifugal switch on the motor, through the drum switch and to the coils.

I have been following the wiring diagram I found on a YT video that seems to match up pretty well with the machine, both in wire colors and wire routing. The wash room is off my bedroom not ideal in general, but computer is here also so for this OK

The two pics are probably familiar

So, despite my many years working in industrial situations, I have found more and more,, (I'm 67) that I am having a harder time wrapping my brain around concepts,, and the centrifugal switch is a goods example. I know that with the 110 volt cord I have I should be able to energize the start coils on the motor, and also should be able to jump that to other contacts that will energize the main coils and start the dryer.

Is there a favorite video clip out there that demonstrates this the best? There is san interesting, and long thread on Google about this, which ends with a carbonized CF switch contacts. Both the switch's tabs and the connector's are clean and shiny. Lots of lint vacuumed out.

The basic premis is, the dryer has worked fine for years, replaced belt several years ago. Quit heating, but ran. Replaced the thermal cutoff, the one furthest back on the heater tube. Back together, and start, but won't run. So to me,, its seems that every component is .good, but need to test the CF switch, and the motor. I wanted to take the motor out to test it, but I cannot seem to get the blower fan off. I have a strong dislike for blower fans, slide on, won't come off, try to force it, blades break,etc/., I even saw a video where the fan is cut off with a dremel and just replaced. Have dremel, but rather not. I want this thing running tomorrow.

Yes,, I talk alot sorry. But wanted to go overr the guts before posting again here, so hopefully its a good general report of where I am.

Thank you

Bill Marriott
 

Attachments

  • DryerInsides.jpg
    DryerInsides.jpg
    358.7 KB · Views: 10
  • CF connector.jpg
    CF connector.jpg
    164.3 KB · Views: 12

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
112,898
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Let's make this easy!

If you just want to know if the motor will run, bench test it with a cheater cord connected to M4 and M5 on the motor switch.

Test(cheater) cord:
Test Cord - 110 Volt With Alligator Clips


You can get a cheater cord like this at any hardware store in your area if you don't want to wait on ordering it, or use a old lamp cord.

Jake
 

bmarriott13

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2020
Messages
7
Location
San Francisco Bay Area Woodacre
OK, back to appliance repair. Applying power directly to M4 & M5, motor runs strong and relative quiet. The only thing II have not tested is to see if the CF switch works as supposed to, with the meter I can see i can make it work manually. Can the drier be hooked up, but drum not in yet, and the drum switch initiate the rest of the system to operate as it should? Or is that against the don't work on dryers while there is 220V in places?

Probably just put it back together and see if I did just knock something loose when reassembling after run no heat issue, I let my desire to see how everything works got the best of me.

Bill
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
112,898
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes Bill, you can leave the drum out and still run the motor, make sure you bypass the belt switch and door switch to make the motor run.

Have you made sure your getting the full 240 volts coming into the dryer at the terminal block where your power cord hooks up to the dryer? On the terminal block where the power cord hooks up to your dryer you will see 3 wire connections, the two OUTER are HOT, MIDDLE is NEUTRAL. Put your meter leads on the two OUTER wire connections on the terminal block and see if your meter reads 240 volts.

Did you ohm test all the thermostats for continuity?

Unplug the dryer, then Disconnect the red and white wire at the element. Plug the dryer in and Start the dryer on timed dry high heat. Take a voltage reading from the red and white wire to ground (any metal screw on the dryer) and take a voltage reading from the red wire still on the element to ground. Most likely you'll have 120 VAC on one of those wires. Which one?

If you measure 0 VAC from the red wire that's still connected to the element, to ground, then most likely the motor CF switch is bad. The motor switch is not sold as a separate part so you'll need to replace the motor.

Jake
 

bmarriott13

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2020
Messages
7
Location
San Francisco Bay Area Woodacre
Hello Jake;

Well I guess this is where my lack of experience with electric dryers,......

So verified correct power at the terminal block, 120 each side wire with ground, probes on both side legs,
240 Volt..

But, back to runs, but no heat. Dang, I thought I had this thing solved. So, breaker off. leads connected to red/white stripe and ground, breaker on, reads 125 volts coming through the thermal interolocks. Breaker off, connect to other HE contact, breaker on, 125 volts.
240 Volts between two terminals

So, with the leads to both terminals, again, and not complete continuity, but approx. 10 ohm. I thought that was correct so I did not replace it.. But if we have 125 V going to each terminal, wouldn't seem logical that the heating element is the culprit. The original lack of heat seemed to be the failed part that is furthest back on the heating tube. Obviously for the price, I should of had one new also.

I am at a loss, so other than order a new heating element, 120V at each terminal when running is correct, and 240 measuring between the two
terminals.

And of course tomorrow is Sunday.......But motor switching seems fine, so that is one good thing

Thanks for your time

Bill
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
112,898
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Bill, while the dryer is on TIMED DRY HIGH HEAT and you are getting 240 volts when you put your 2 meter leads on each of the 2 heating element terminals at the same time and the element is not coming on, then its bad.

Here's the heating element for your model:
Heating Element Assembly WP3387747


Jake
 
Top