110.63952101 Dryer still not heating after testing positive for continuity

fernram

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2012
Messages
22
Location
North Port, FL
Model Number
110.63952101
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
More than 10 years
Hi. Need some help. The dryer runs but it does not heat.

I've tested the following for continuity with a meter and got positive reading on the following;


  1. Thermal Fuse
  2. Heater Element
  3. High Limit Thermostat
  4. Thermal Cut-Off

The only thing that did not have continuity was the Thermistor - but I read that a bad Thermistor would not be the cause of the dryer not heating. The power plug and timer have also been tested and are both OK. Could the Electronic Control Assembly the issue? This is very frustrating at this point. Does anyone have any ideas on what else might be wrong.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,644
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

It could be a voltage issue, I've run into many dryers that will RUN and NOT HEAT or NOT RUN AT ALL on my service calls. You may have a broken wire from one of the hot legs that connects to the terminal block in the back of the dryer.

Unplug your dryer, and pull it out from the wall and remove the metal cover where your power cord connects to your dryer and see if any of the wires have burned.

You would need to check for 220-240 volts at the terminal block with a multimeter.

Many times I've seen just 120 volts coming in, not 240 volts, thus your dryer motor will run, but not heat.

Put your multimeter leads on both ends of the terminal block, it should read 240 volts.

Remember Black & Red on the ends are HOT, White in the middle is NEUTRAL

Then put one of your meter leads in the middle of your terminal block and one on the end you should read 120 volts, then on the other end you should read 120 volts as well.

Look at this from another member that had this same issue:

(click to enlarge)
FriedWires.jpg

If you find that has a burnt hot wire like in the photo above, then you would need a new terminal block kit and new dryer cord.

Here's the terminal block kit for his model he can order:
279320 Terminal Block Kit


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

fernram

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2012
Messages
22
Location
North Port, FL
Jake - thxs for your response.

Below is my attempt of trying what you suggested. Not sure if I'm using the multimeter correctly but I get no reading at all. I also included a picture of the terminal block for your inspection.

Please let me know your thoughts.

unnamed.jpgunnamed (1).jpg
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,644
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Put your meter on 600 volts, I noticed its only on 200 volts.:)

You have your meter probes on the correct ones, it should read 240 volts.

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,644
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Sounds like a problem with your 220-240 Volts AC outlet or your dryer breaker in your home breaker box went bad.

Unplug the machine. Measure the voltage in the outlet between L1 and L2. If it's 220-240 Volts AC plug the dryer cord back in but not all the way. Leave enough room to touch the meter leads to the metal prongs going into the outlet. Measure the voltage again between L1 and L2 and see if it remains 220-240 Volts AC.
220 VAC.jpg

Jake
 

fernram

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2012
Messages
22
Location
North Port, FL
The meter leads on my multimeter are not long enough to insert into the dryer outlet - but I did test the metal prongs going into the outlet and they tested at +/-244VAC.
Bad terminal block??
 

Dan O.

Appliance Tech
Staff member
Joined
Oct 9, 2004
Messages
1,790
Location
Canada
The meter leads on my multimeter are not long enough to insert into the dryer outlet
Can the tips of the plastic leads come off to expose more bare probe? It looks like there's a separation in the plastic which might allow part of it to unscrew or pull off.

meter probes.jpg

Dan O.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,644
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Dan, he said this:
but I did test the metal prongs going into the outlet and they tested at +/-244VAC.
So actually that's how you volt test it if the leads won't go into the 240 volt outlet receptacle.:)

Ok fernram, if you get 244 volts at the 240 volt outlet receptacle and 0 volts when you volt test the two outer hot legs at the terminal block, then indicates you have a bad dryer cord.

Go to any hardware store and get a new dryer cord and that will fix it.

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,644
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, sounds good, yes let us know.

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,644
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, you'll need to have a electrician come out and see what's going on then.

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,644
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, sounds good, something very odd is going on.

Let us know what they find.

Jake
 
Top