110.64962300 Lint Build Up Lower Cabinet Area With Some Burnt

[dw85745]

Model Number

110.64962300

Brand

Sears Kenmore

Age

More than 10 years

I get, what I consider, a lot of lint buildup both in the duct and most concerning the lower cabinet area.
The dryer is used approximately once a week with two loads.
I vent vertically through the roof (Approx 15 to 20 feet).
Every three months I clean the duct at the curve where it transitions to the vertical. Pipe is not collapsed or restricted in anyway and the curve is gentle NOT tight.
Every six months I clean the bottom cabinet area, and do the dryer wheel assembly about once a year.
At my six month cleaning, I normally notice a lot of lint -- some burnt -- in the lower cabinet area and most concerning is lint within the heating element box.
It does NOT appears that air (and lint) is escaping from the housing containing the blower wheel (not sure how to really test for this ??).

Other than increasing my cleaning frequency, looking for suggestions to:
1) Reduce the amount of lint -- if possible
2) Test the housing where the blower wheel is contained to see if leaking into cabinet
3) Feedback as to whether this amount of lint is normal -- assuming here one is venting directly outside with a short run AND NOT vertical
4) Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Dan O.]

Every three months I clean the duct at the curve where it transitions to the vertical. Pipe is not collapsed or restricted in anyway and the curve is gentle NOT tight.

Have you ever clean the whole vent, from end to end?

What kind of vent material is used? (see the following link)

This link is pertinent to your message. It is supplied by this message author. Please visit it.

LINK > Appliance411 FAQ: How long can my dryer vent be?

If lint is building up in the venting, there is likely a problem with the venting or installation.

Signs of burning should be a VERY big caution!

It does NOT appears that air (and lint) is escaping from the housing containing the blower wheel

Some lint could be escaping into the cabinet due to worn seals at each end of the dryer drum. They should also be inspected and replaced if worn.

LINK > 110.64962300 Front or Read Drum Seal (with repair video)


JMO

Dan O.

 

[dw85745]

Dan O
Thanks for responding and the great links.
I just cleaned everything so based on one of the links plan to run a load without the vent connected.

I am leaning toward the vent cap over the vertical vent pipe above the roof as being the LIKELY problem.
When I originally installed the vertical venting, I tied out the vertical vent to a unused furnace vent with cap that had been originally installed in case one wished to go with gas in the house (I'm all electric).
I have a clay tile barrel roof so access to the cap itself (from the outside) is impossible, so never has been checked.
I do have attic access to the vent from the inside -- even though a PITA -- but whether I can reach the cap from inside the vent -- because of the roof height -- is unknown at this time.
It may have some type of screening to keep critters out and that screen may be a clog point?
FWIW:
The vertical line itself is round SMOOTH metal venting as is the vent internal to the cabinet. I use a flexible metal duct from the dyer to the the vertical pipe connection (about 12 inches in length).
I designed a metal quick connect between the dryer and the flexible metal duct (side discharge) to allow easy vent separation and easy physical removal of the dryer for vent cleaning.
The design causes NO restrictions and no leakage (air or lint).

FOLLOWUP QUESTION (Per your link):
How does one determine whether the drum felt seals are BAD?
(If I recall correctly, this drum uses felt seals both on front and back

Regards,
David

 

[Dan O.]

I just cleaned everything so based on one of the links plan to run a load without the vent connected.

That's more for heating problems but if you do try, be sure the room is well vented and there is something to catch the lint expelled with the dryer exhaust.

It may have some type of screening to keep critters out and that screen may be a clog point?

It can. The size of the hood opening itself is also critical to the maximum vent length acceptable for use (see the venting link I supplied).

How does one determine whether the drum felt seals are BAD?

Only by inspection. If they're visibly worn or tattered replace it/them.


I doubt you have access to a manometer but the vent back pressures could be measured to determine the venting's acceptability. 2 manufacturer's pressure recommendations are listed at the venting link. I don't think most appliance technicians would have one either though. Maybe an HVAC tech?


Dan O.


Dan O.

 

[dw85745]

Dan O.
Thanks for the followup and advice.
FWIW: A pair of women's panty hose over the vent does a good job of lint catching.
Manometer and HVAC. Thanks for the mention as I have an HVAC friend who might have one.
Regards,
David

 

[Dan O.]

One other thing I just thought of, check the condition of the drum rollers. If worn they might cause a poor drum seal but would often cause increased sound level at the same time.

 

[dw85745]

Dan O.
Thanks again.
I'M ASSUMING -- Like with the drum felt -- assessment of the drum rollers is more a function of experience with NO ACTUAL way (caliper, etc.) to verify.

 

[Dan O.]

assessment of the drum rollers is more a function of experience with NO ACTUAL way

The rollers run on a shaft. There should be no play between the roller and the shaft. ANY play between them = worn rollers.




Dan O.

 

[dw85745]

Dan O.
Busy day yesterday so didn't have chance to reply. Thanks for followup.
Want to back up a bit in regard to the air flow if you have a moment.

As I see it the air flow is as follows:
SUCTION SIDE
1) Cold air enters bottom cabinet in various ways since NOT air tight.
2) With the heating element on, the bottom cabinet air in the heat tube is heated
Through convection (hot air rising), and the fan pulling a suction,
the air rises through the heat tube, enters the cabinet and drum from the back,
flows through the drum,
flows through the screen into the housing,
and enters the fan.
BLOWER SIDE
3) Once the air passes through the fan, the air AND Lint,
Enter the housing containing the blower shaft,
Is pushed through the tube inside the cabinet,
and enters the outside tubing.

So we have three issues at work. Suction, Blower, and Back Pressure.
Back Pressure may decrease the amount of air being suctioned and blowing - but can be ignored for now.
So the way I see it:
-- Any air on the Suction Side should NOT cause lint to enter the bottom cabinet area.
That leaves two issues.
1) The DRUM felt seals themselves are generating lint as they rub.
2) Air (with lint) on the Blower side is entering the bottom cabinet via an air leak EITHER:
a) From the housing itself where the blower shaft is contained
b) Through the blower shaft seal in the housing
c) Where the cabinet tube connects to the blower shaft housing, OR
d) Any joint in the cabinet tubing.

WOULD YOU AGREE WITH THE ABOVE LOGIC?

 

[Dan O.]

Back Pressure may decrease the amount of air being suctioned and blowing - but can be ignored for now.

If you're running it with the vent removed, sure. With the vent in place the back pressure of the venting is important as it will limit the force at which exhaust (and lint) can be expelled.

The DRUM felt seals themselves are generating lint as they rub.

It might be possible but I can't imagine that.

I'm a little confused though, are you wondering where the lint is coming from?? I am more concerned why it isn't being vented with the exhaust and remaining behind in the machine where it could pose a fire hazard and in the venting where it will cause further restrictions.

Any leak in the sealing of the air flow route (though the drum & ducts) could allow warm air (and lint) to escape into the cabinet interior as the pressure inside the cabinet would be less than the pressure inside the drum and vents. The air (and lint) will follow the path of least resistance.

If it can't be blown out the vent easily, it will escape into the cabinet at any loose joint in the dryer's air system. That could be any of the places you mentioned as well as the drum seals but all would be exasperated by the back pressure of the venting.

JMO

Dan O.

 

[dw85745]

Dan O.
Thanks again for all your great input on my behalf.
I was hoping by understanding the air flow it would help me pin point possible leak points within the Lower Cabinet Area.
Because of the potential fire risk this is my PRIMARY CONCERN.
Your last post has now CONFIRMED that for me:

If it can't be blown out the vent easily, it will escape into the cabinet at any loose joint in the dryer's air system. That could be any of the places you mentioned as well as the drum seals but all would be exasperated by the back pressure of the venting.

I plan to go over those areas and seal with aluminum tape, unless you recommend something better?

Thanks again.
Have a nice weekend.

David

 

[Dan O.]

I plan to go over those areas and seal with aluminum tape

That shouldn't be necessary. If there are any leaks, the cause should be found and corrected. If aluminum tape wasn't there originally, it shouldn't be needed now. Investigate and correct. Don't just try to put on bandages.

One other thing I thought of. If you use dryer sheets see if water will pass through the lint filter. A film residue could restrict air movement through the filter. Try cleaning or replacing the dryer lint filter.

Easy dryer lint trap cleaning how-to

Easy dryer lint trap cleaning how-to - clean regularly to avoid a fire hazard!

www.acleanbee.com

I still think the venting is a major concern. How is lint accumulation with the vent removed?


Dan O.

 

[dw85745]

Dan O:

Easy dryer lint trap cleaning

Learned something new. While I never have used dryer sheets, and every week or so vacuum the lint filter, have never washed until a few minutes ago.

...the cause should be found and corrected... Don't just try to put on bandages.

I totally agree.
That's what I am working toward.
When I originally made room for the dryer and installed the vent, my ONLY option was through the roof.
I just did two loads with the cabinet previously cleaned, and have lint in bottom cabinet area already.
While I put aluminum tape over the inside cabinet tubing during the original install, when I designed and installed my quick tubing disconnect for easy tube cleaning, I did NOT put aluminum tape over the connecting joint inside the lower cabinet.
Looking at that joint (and the lint) -- IT APPEARS -- the lint is coming from that joint AS A RESULT OF the back pressure in the tubing going through the roof.
The roof tube venting is what I have suspected all along.
HOWEVER, as stated previously, to fix that presents a MAJOR effort.
I hope to redo this bathroom (where the dryers located) sometime this year, and planned to redesign (IF POSSIBLE), and move the dryer to the outside wall.
I have a friend coming over in a couple weeks to be available (safety) for my climb into the attic, so on hold till then to confirm the roof vent issue.
If that results in NO SOLUTION, as currently designed, then as I recall they make a unit where one can discharge the dryer vent into a water bath.
Have yet to searched for this water bath vent assembly.

Regards,
David

 

[Dan O.]

then as I recall they make a unit where one can discharge the dryer vent into a water bath.

There are external "indoor vent kits" available that do try to catch the lint in a bucket of water. They're far from perfect and don't do anything about the humidity expelled which then stays in the room. Open the windows when using one.

There are also condensing dryer models that don't need to be vented outdoors at all for when it is not possible. Of course, at a price.

LINK > Ventless Condensing Dryers

g/l

Dan O.