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110.66812694 Kenmore Dryer shuts off when start button is released but when button is held down it fails to heat up also.

carboncrank

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2020
Messages
5
Location
Columbus, OH
Model Number
110.66812694
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
6-10 years
Sequence of events. I was venting the dryer basement during the winter time. Warmer weather came and I hooked up the vent hose to the outside. I used the dryer twice and it seemed to work ok. Then I had it running and noticed the drum wasn't getting particularly hot and the vent hose was not warm. I checked outside and found the screen to the outside connection completely clogged. I didn't even know it had such a fine screen. I cleaned the screen and went back to use the dryer and when I push the button it did run shut off as soon as I released the button. I did the door switch trick to make sure that the drum was turning yes. So I tried holding the button down for a few seconds and I smelled something funny. So I stopped I couldn't do anything more at the time so I came back to it. I try it again and I don't get us funny smell but now even with the button held down drum turns but the heating element doesn't light up. I figure can't be the switch or it would heat up with the button held down. it can't be the thermal fuse for nothing would work. none of the fuses explains why it shuts off with released. I know the cycling thermostat has power to it because I touched it wrong and it bit me LOL I don't generally believe in multiple problems happening at the same time. But I'm having trouble coming up with one problem that explains all the symptoms. Turns with the button held down but heating coils do not light up.
Type number 180 - 00 model 110.66812694 stock number 66812
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
113,070
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
The problem is the motor.

Here's the motor for your model you can order:
Motor 279827


Watch this video to access/replace your motor :


Let us know how it goes if you decide to fix it.

Jake
 

carboncrank

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2020
Messages
5
Location
Columbus, OH
I think what you're saying is it there's a part on the motor that's bad,not that the motor is bad. The electric motor works because it spins the drum with the button held down. I talked to a parts guy here in Columbus who said something about a relay on the motor that can't be replaced. what kind of relay would be on the motor? Could the bad relay keep power from going to the heating coils

the problem is that makes little sense to spend $133 on a dryer I may have paid $150 for.

But the other major problem is that I have that second problem. With the start button held down the motor turns but the heating element does not light up. I don't see how replacing the motor fixes that. how likely is it that a single event could cause those two separate problems.?

there is a high limit thermostat at the bottom of the coils housing and there's the thermal fuse at the top of the coils housing. and there's the cycling thermostat. which one or ones would create a no heat situation with the drum spinning.?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
113,070
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
The centrifugal switch on the motor is usually the cause of this problem, but you can't just buy that separately, that's why I said you'd need to replace the motor to fix it.:)

With the start button held down the motor turns but the heating element does not light up. I don't see how replacing the motor fixes that. how likely is it that a single event could cause those two separate problems.?
The heating element needs 240 VAC to operate. 120 VAC comes from the timer. The other 120 VAC comes from the motors centrifugal switch. The switch contacts for the element are normally open and they're not suppose to close until the motor stays running without you holding the start button.

Jake
 

carboncrank

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2020
Messages
5
Location
Columbus, OH
I just want to be clear, if that switch bad on the motor there will be no power to the element in all cases.

Just because I'm curious about how stuff works I'd like to know if the switch is sometimes called a relay and sometimes called a starter circuit.

the centrifugal switch itself hasn't really got anything to do with starting the motor, right? The power is coming from the start button to the motor and spends the motor up then weights in the centrifugal switch move in some manner that completes a circuit so the engine can run when you release the button. About right? And when the centrifugal switch is engaged the additional power can flow to the heating elements.

I just want to verify that the bad centrifugal switch explains my symptoms in all cases.

I will be checking independent appliance stores that sell used appliances and see if they have a motor for it.

Thanks for your help. This place appears to be great.

jack from columbus ohio
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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McMullen Valley, Arizona
I'll try to explain it so you can understand.

The built-in centrifugal switch in the motor makes it start when you push the start button, then it switches to the run winding in the motor, and its not switching it over to the run winding, so the motor centrifugal switch is staying on start winding only when you are holding the start button.

The only part in the dryer that needs 240 VAC is the heating element. The rest of the dryer works on 120 VAC. L1 (the black wires) and N (white wires) is supply voltage for the entire dryer except the heating element. L2 (red wires) is a dedicated line for just the heating element. If it ran straight to the element the element would have a constant 120 VAC and be hot. Maybe not bright red but still on even when the dryer is off.

To break the circuit, L2 runs through the motor switch so the only time the circuit is complete is when the motor is running(on the run winding). L2 runs from the power cord to the motor switch, through the motor switch to the safety thermostat, through the safety thermostat to the element.

Jake
 

carboncrank

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Jun 2, 2020
Messages
5
Location
Columbus, OH
I'm finally getting around to taking the motor out of this dryer. I look at the video that was posted here and of course it's maddening because everything looks so easy. When it comes to actually removing the motor the show two adjustable wrenches seeing turned in the opposite direction to unscrew the shaft. It does have the caveat about it might take some Force. But I'm now using so much force that I'm bending the chassis and it still won't come undone. I even tried letting one wrench jam and turning the other one but that creates too much of a twisting force on the bracket. But even holding both wrenches I was using so much force is that I saw the floor buckle like popping a dent out of a piece of Auto body sheet metal. If I ever get it back together worried I might have a bracket alignment problem I have to use my body shop hammers.

I want to make sure I've got the rotation right. I should be trying to move the ranch at the back wall counterclockwise and the one at the front clockwise at the same time. Right?
 

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Jake

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Here's another video he explains it better:


Yes, some are on very tight, keep at it you will get it off.:)

Jake
 

carboncrank

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Joined
Jun 2, 2020
Messages
5
Location
Columbus, OH
It won't budge. Notice in the photo I have the wrench on the front set against the floor of the dryer and I'm twisting the rear wrench counterclockwise. That's why I asked the question about that being the right direction. the problem is would you do that the front of the motor wants to Cock off at an angle. I can't have both hands on the rear wrench and hold the front of the motor on to the Cradle. and even trying it with one hand on each wrench when I go out at hard it's unstable. the more pressure you apply to the rear the harder it becomes to hold the front in place. I think I already have it slightly bent. I'm afraid if I go at it any harder I'm going to end up making it unfixable. I can probably put a pipe over the wrench at the rear of the motor to increase the leverage but I know full well what's going to happen. It's going to tear the Cradle out of it.

I don't look forward to disassembling it any further but if I expose the fan from the rear can I get it that way?

this is the kind of video I hate. I think they know damn well that the hard part is getting the motor disconnected from that blower wheel and yet they give you a false sense of what it's like. So you spend all the time getting it apart to that part and then you end up stuck on something they make look easy. This is a question of them disassembling something, reassembling something, THEN doing a video disassembling it. They don't prepare you for the hard part don't give you any advice on how to deal with it when it doesn't apart the way it does in the video.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, you can use a pipe wrench.

I've replaced many of these same motors in my 33 year career as a appliance tech. and I know what you mean about getting the blower off the motor shaft, some come off much easier than others do and some are a nightmare to get off.

Even some I've had to get a hammer and chisel and break off the blower wheel from the motor shaft.

Just keep at it and you'll get it.

Jake
 
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