FIXED 110.70912990 Gas dryer wont start, How to remove back console panel

buffaloguy

Premium Member
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Aug 19, 2007
Messages
23
Location
New Jersey
Model
110.70912990
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
More than 10 years
I believe the timer on my 110.70912990 Sears Kenmore Dryer is faulty. I have the same clicking sound described in this post. But I'm unable to remove the rear console panel to get to the timer as described in the video on that post.

After removing the bottom screws of the rear panel of the console (red squares in photo), I am still unable to open the panel. It’s firmly attached. I removed the screws at the top of the panel (blue diamonds) but it didn’t help – I think they are designed to enable the panel to flip up.

Once the bottom panel screws were removed, I was able to lift up the rear of the dryer top. I looked underneath and saw what appeared to be a screw that went through a tab on the rear panel (orange circles) into the bottom of the console. That appears to prevent me from opening the console panel.

If that’s the case, then I need to remove those screws. But I can’t get to them because the dryer top appears to be attached at the front of the dryer and I have not figured out how to remove it.

Do I need to start again somewhere else? What’s my next step?

Thanks.

Dryer panel - annotated.jpg
 

bigbuck

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You need to pull forward on the two end caps on the control panel and unsnap them from the panel. Then remove the 2 screws and pull the panel forward and flip it backwards. Now you can access and replace the timer.

These: https://click.linksynergy.com/deeplink?id=YO6223WzStY&mid=13810&murl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.appliancepartspros.com%2Fwhirlpool-trim-279868-ap3094274.html

Watch this Video: https://www.repairclinic.com/Video/Video-Landing/119-8/Whirlpool-Kenmore-Gas-Dryer-Motor-Heat-Relay-3405281?tab=0
 
Last edited:

buffaloguy

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New Jersey
Thank you, those instructions were perfect.

I'll make a separate thread to address the issue with the dryer not working.
 

buffaloguy

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Messages
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Location
New Jersey
110.70912990 Gas dryer will not start, clicking sound.

My 110.70912990 Sears Kenmore Gas Dryer won’t start. We use timer mode exclusively. We haven’t used moisture sensor mode in many years, and I don’t recall whether it didn’t work well or didn’t work at all. Now the dryer will not run in any mode.

Here’s what happens: I set the timer and push the start button. I hear a loud single click as I usually do when pressing the start button. The dryer does not start. Instead, the timer makes a quiet clicking sound.

I tested the continuity of the timer with a multi-meter set to the lowest ohm. Here’s what was measured. I’ve not used tested continuity with a multi-meter before. The first two appear to have continuity; it looks like from this thread that T-W is busted and I need to replace the timer. Is that right? I don’t know the significance of the GY-WB reading; does it mean something else is wrong?


  • BK – BU. 00.2
  • BK – R. 00.2
  • T – W. no change. Stayed at 1
  • GY – WB. Reading changed continuously slowly lowering the range to the low single digits.

Thanks
 

Jake

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Hi,

Its best to stay with just one thread.:)

You will want to ohm out(continuity check) that push-to-start switch first, with a multimeter, to see if it has continuity with the button PUSHED IN on it.

Unplug your dryer first before testing!

Take 1 wire off the push-to-start switch before ohm testing it for continuity, doesn't matter which one.

With the button pushed in, it should have continuity, with the button out, it shouldn't have continuity.

Here's the push-to-start switch for your model in case you need to order it:
Start Switch WP3395382


Watch this video to ohm test it for continuity: Two Terminal Switch Testing Video

If your push-to-start switch tests good, then Unplug the machine. Set your meter to ohms with the beep(continuity), Set the timer to timed dry about 40 minutes and see if the following contacts on the timer are CLOSED(continuity); BK-R, BK-BU, GY-WB, and T-W.

OPEN means no continuity.

T – W. no change. Stayed at 1
Then your timer is bad.

Here's the timer for your model you can order:
Timer WP3976576


Let us know how it goes after you replace the timer.:)

Jake
 

buffaloguy

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Messages
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Location
New Jersey
Tested the push-to-start switch; the reading varied didn't stay at 1 so I am assuming it's OK. Just ordered the timer from the link you provided. Will post again after I replace the timer.

Thanks!:encouragement:
 

Jake

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Ok, then yes it's possibly a bad timer.

Yes, keep us posted.:)

Jake
 

buffaloguy

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I received the new timer today. Installed it. Plugged in the dryer. Turned the timer to 40 minutes or so and pushed the start button. The start button clicked, but nothing else happened.
Looking forward to your ideas.

Thanks,
 

buffaloguy

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I called the parts supplier, AppliancePartsPros.com. The person on the phone told me that usually when a customer calls to report that the dryer won’t start when the Push to Start button is depressed, and that there’s a buzzing sound, the problem is the motor.

I put in the 2nd timer I got, which was clearly a new timer (clean box, no marks on terminals). I set the timer switch to 40-minute timed dry. She told me to connect the power to the dryer. Then, she had me use my multimeter to run a voltage test between the Blue wire on the timer switch and the ground on the dryer. According to the wiring diagram, the Blue wire supplies power to the drive motor. The multimeter read 120 volts. She said it shows the correct amount of voltage coming out of the timer switch to the motor, indicating that the timer switch was not bad.

While I was using the multimeter and talking on the phone, my companion had held the Push-to-Start button down for a while. After some time, the burner started. Not sure what that meant, but the tech on the phone wasn’t surprised.

As far as there being no connectivity between the T and W terminals, her explanation was that the T-W circuit is usually open when the dryer is not running. (It seems on the diagram that the T-W connection goes to the buzzer. So it would only close at the end of a dryer cycle.)

What are your thoughts on this?
 

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buffaloguy

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Regarding the noise, in one of my posts above I only said there was a clicking sound; there may have been buzzing also; my memory is hazy. To get good data, I just reinstalled the original timer and test it. Here's the outcome:

-- Original timer: Rhythmic rubbing/clicking sound coming from timer. Buzzing/humming sound coming from indistinct source.
-- New timer: Same buzzing/humming sound coming from indistinct source.

I put my ear up to the top of the console and also to the bottom of the dryer at the back. I couldn't identify the origin of the sound. The sound wasn't that loud and the metal was conducting the sound. I didn't want to touch the timer switch to feel for a vibration because it was supplied with power.

I confirm that I tested the continuity as you instructed. I even tried turning the switch upside down in the console in case I had the orientation wrong. Didn't work then, either.

Thanks, Jake, for sticking with me.
 

Jake

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Ok, let me ask Rick what he thinks.

Jake
 

buffaloguy

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I put the new timer back into the console, reattached the knob, flipped over the console hood so I could see the timer knob in good light straight on, and set the timer to Timed Dry 40 minutes exactly. Then I flipped it back up and tested connectivity on T-W. Nada. I even rotated the timer itself 180 degrees and retried, just to make sure I hadn't mounted mounted upside down. LOL. Still no connectivity.
 

rickgburton

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buffaloguy said:
.... the reading varied didn't stay at 1 so I am assuming it's OK.
buffaloguy said:
GY – WB. Reading changed continuously slowly lowering the range to the low single digits.
When checking continuity always remove power from the machine and always remove at least one wire from the component you're checking.

For example, remove one of the wires from the start switch. Put your test leads on the switch terminals and press the PTS switch. Your meter should indicate less than 1Ω.

Remove the wire from the "T" terminal on the timer and touch your test leads to "T" and "W" with the timer set to about 40 minutes. Your meter should indicate <1Ω. Remove the wire from the "GY" terminal and measure between "GY" and "WB". Meter= <1Ω.
 

Jake

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Thanks Rick!

I knew I forgot something, getting old sucks. LOL

Jake
 

buffaloguy

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For example, remove one of the wires from the start switch. Put your test leads on the switch terminals and press the PTS switch. Your meter should indicate less than 1Ω.

Remove the wire from the "T" terminal on the timer and touch your test leads to "T" and "W" with the timer set to about 40 minutes. Your meter should indicate <1Ω. Remove the wire from the "GY" terminal and measure between "GY" and "WB". Meter= <1Ω
PTS terminals. Meter= <1Ω
T-W terminals. Meter = 1. No continuity.
GY-WB terminals.
Meter= <1Ω

Tested on the new switch.

If the new switch is defective, please let me know the meaning of power coming out of the blue wire down to the motor and of the humming sound, and what else I need to test. It's a workday and I can't test during the day. The more info you can give me of the steps to test tonight, the farther I can get.

Also, if the motor is also dead, I'd rather not replace it. I checked the price, a replacement motor is about $200. I'd prefer not to put that money into an 18-year old dryer. There's a sale on dryers thru 5/1; I'd like to catch that if possible.

Thanks!
 

rickgburton

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Dryer plugged in, door closed, timer set to timed dry about 40 minutes. Meter set to measure VAC. Here's your voltage pinouts:

BU on the timer to the CO (common) terminal on the PTS switch = 120 VAC

BU on the timer to GY on the timer = 120 VAC when the PTS switch is pressed.

BU on the timer to WB on the timer = 120 VAC when the PTS switch is pressed.

4M on the motor to 6M on the motor = 120 VAC

4M to 5M = 120 VAC when the PTS button is pressed.
 

rickgburton

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It makes it much easier that way. Did you ever check the broken belt switch?
 

buffaloguy

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No, I haven't. The drum rotates fine in both directions, although I don't know whether that has any significance.
 

rickgburton

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The broken belt switch is a microswitch with a lever mounted to the motor bracket. The idler pulley bracket holds the lever down while the belt is installed. The blue wire (L1) runs through the belt switch to M4 on the motor. If the belt breaks or the switch is bad the motor doesn't have 120 VAC.
Belt Switch.jpg
 
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