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110.72992101 Kenmore Elite dryer isn't drying/firing.

kenandcar

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2006
Messages
34
Location
chicago
Model Number
110.72992101
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
6-10 years
Like the name of the topic says: my Kenmore dryer isn't drying, all of a sudden. When I turn it on, usually is spins around for a few minutes, then there's the "woosh" kinda sound, and the burner(?) fires up, and things get warm. Not so much, lately. No woosh, no warm. :wall:

I'm SO glad I bookmarked this forum...it's come in handy SO many times, and saved me so much money in the long run!:eagerness:
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
106,143
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Welcome back,

Yes, sounds like the gas coils are wearing out, very common for this issue.

Here's the gas coil kit for your model you can order here(Video Included in part link):
Gas Valve Solenoid 279834


Jake
 

kenandcar

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2006
Messages
34
Location
chicago
I removed the panel and watched it run for a few minutes. The igniter never glowed/fired up. Do you think it's still an issue with the solenoids, or is it something else?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
106,143
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, if the ignitor never glows then its possibly the thermal fuse, On gas dryers if the thermal fuse is bad the dryer will run but not heat, on electric dryers a bad thermal fuse causes the dryer not to even start.

Here's the thermal fuse for your model you can order here if needed:
Thermal Fuse WP3390719


The main reason the thermal fuse blows is air flow restrictions in your exhaust hose that goes to the outside of your home, lint build-up over the years effects the air flow, also go outside and check your dryer vent, that can clog up too.

This video shows how to test it(UNPLUG THE DRYER FIRST, TAKE THE WIRES OFF THE THERMAL FUSE BEFORE TESTING)


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

kenandcar

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2006
Messages
34
Location
chicago
I opened it up, and located the thermal fuse. I accidentally disconnected the thermistor instead, and tested IT, and it didn't register. But the thermal fuse had continuity. So I guess I need a new thermistor (part 3946615, according to the Sears Parts Direct manual.) Could you provide a link for this part? Thanks!
IMG_2876.jpg
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
106,143
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok,

Put your meter on X100 or X1K then ohm test it again.

That thermistor should read about 10K ohms (10,000) ohms at room temperature(77 DEGREES).

Here's the thermistor for your model you can order if needed:
Thermistor WP8577274


Jake
 

kenandcar

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2006
Messages
34
Location
chicago
Okay...zero ohms of resistance on the thermal fuse:
IMG_2909.jpg

And about 10k on the thermistor:
IMG_2911 (Edited).jpg

I also checked the resistance on the gas valve coils. They were both around 1300 ohms with a setting of x10. Any other things I should check?
 
Last edited:

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
106,143
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok,

Thermal fuse is good, Thermistor is good.

Here's the video to ohm test the gas coils:


Remember, even if the gas coils ohm test fine, they can still be bad mechanically.:)

Then ohm test the flame sensor.

Here's the flame sensor for your model you can order if needed:
Flame Sensor WP338906



Then ohm test the igniter.

Here's the igniter for your model you can order if needed:
Dryer Igniter 279311



Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

kenandcar

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2006
Messages
34
Location
chicago
Okay. I have had the entire dryer taken apart, and have tested:
- Thermal fuse
- Thermistor
- Flame sensor
- Ignitor
- both Gas valve solenoids
- Dryer high-limit thermostat (just because I had everything apart, and could get to it.)
Everything tested okay with a multimeter, but I understand that the gas valve solenoids might still be bad, even if they tested okay. I guess I'm running out of options, but if you suggest it, I'll replace the gas valve solenoids and see what happens. If nothing works after that, is it time for a new dryer? This one is about 15 years old...

Thanks, Jake, for all of your help and assistance!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
106,143
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
I'll replace the gas valve solenoids and see what happens.
Yes, I'd suggest that.:)


If nothing works after that, is it time for a new dryer? This one is about 15 years old...
Yes, that would be wise.:)

Jake
 

kenandcar

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2006
Messages
34
Location
chicago
Alrighty...I ordered the gas coil kit (like you told me in the first place!) I even paid for express shipping, so it'll be here in a couple days. I'll let you know how it goes.
Thank you SO much for all of your help and patience.
(If it doesn't work, I may be back looking for a good recommendation on a new dryer!)
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
106,143
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Sounds good, yes keep us posted.

Jake
 

kenandcar

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2006
Messages
34
Location
chicago
Well, the gas valve solenoids arrived today, and I tried them out. Still doesn't work. :( I guess I'll be sending them back.
Thanks for all of your help! At least I'm confident that I tried everything within my skillset to try to get it to work. Guess I'm buying a new dryer!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
106,143
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, then it must be the gas valve itself that's gone haywire: WP8318281 Valve, Gas

But at any rate its best to get a new dryer as that gas valve assembly is $181

And with the age of your dryer its not worth it.

Happy dryer shopping.

Jake
 
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