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FIXED 110.82832100 Kenmore Dryer - Thermistor or vent blockage?

edee_em

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2005
Messages
55
Location
Ontario, Canada
Model Number
110.82832100
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
More than 10 years
Our 18 year old Kenmore Elite He3 dryer, yes 18 year old, suddenly stopped mid-cycle (this has never happened before). I tried to restart it but nothing happened except for a clicking noise that came from the back left of the unit (if facing it). I had to go out so I turned off the circuit breaker. When I came home (hours later) I turned the unit back on and it did what it does without any problem. I did some research on the issue and saw some posts here about running diagnostics for the thermal fuses and such. I did the "More time Less time" switch dance and a "2E" message showed up. I interpreted that to be an E2 error and that relates to the thermistor. Seeing as how the unit operated normally, I was curious as to why the error code came up and, that with an error code, the unit operated normally.

Anyway, this morning I decided to follow some other advise about checking the venting for blockages. Outside, the vent cap was blocked with lint at the animal/rodent cage. The flap was working normally. I turned the dryer on and air flowed out without any issue and it had a good force behind it. I ran the diagnostics again and "88" showed up but no E codes.

My question is whether this has been fixed? Thanks
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Yes, you possibly fixed it by cleaning the vent cap.

I'm trying to see if our tech @bigbuck may have your tech data sheet.

Keep using it and see how it does.

Jake
 

edee_em

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2005
Messages
55
Location
Ontario, Canada
Well, that didn't last very long. The dryer had operated properly 3-4 times since the issue but stopped this morning with 3 minutes remaining. Trying to start it back up got me a beep and a click from the back left, but the dryer did not turn on. I cut off the circuit breaker and restarted: beep and click. Let it sit to cool down for an hour: beep and click. The only difference in this load was I set the heat setting to Normal instead of the usual Delicate (Normal has a higher temp than Delicate). I did the more time/less time diagnostic and all I got was the 88 display. When I pushed Start, I got a "02" to display but the unit did not turn on. Last time I did that the dryer turned on with the 02 displayed.

Anyway, I think that's about it. Can anyone help as to what my next steps should be? Thanks
 

Jake

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Its possibly your thermistor. Ohm test the thermistor at room temperature.

At room temperature or 70*F the thermistor should show between 11.5K and 11.9K ohms (11,500 -11,900 ohms).

Normal thermistor resistance values:
60 degrees F. - 15.3K ohms.
70 degrees F. - 11.9K ohms.
80 degrees F. - 9.2K ohms.

Here's the thermistor for your model:
Thermistor WP8577274


This video shows how to access it:

Make sure you unplug your dryer first and keep it unplugged when ohm testing.

Jake
 

edee_em

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2005
Messages
55
Location
Ontario, Canada
Thanks for the reply and info Jake but the thermistor model # didn't come through. Also, the link to the video took me somewhere other than the video.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Both links work perfectly fine for me!

I just checked them, try a different browser, or turn off your ad block if you have one.

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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What happened? Did you have ad block on?

Jake
 

edee_em

Premium Member
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Messages
55
Location
Ontario, Canada
I do have an ad blocker and I use Microsoft Edge. I tried it with Chrome with the ad blocker and the information came through. Thanks for following up!

The video shows a complete dismantle of the dryer to get to the thermistor. Is that necessary?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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I do have an ad blocker and I use Microsoft Edge. I tried it with Chrome with the ad blocker and the information came through.
Got it!

The video shows a complete dismantle of the dryer to get to the thermistor. Is that necessary?
No, just remove the bottom access panel on this model to get access to it.:)

Jake
 

Jake

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You can add our site your adblock whitelist, look here:

Jake
 

edee_em

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2005
Messages
55
Location
Ontario, Canada
Just checked the thermistor and it is dead. Will order replacement but that has led to a whole other issue. First, there are a ton of them available and that competition has led to a wide range of prices. For example, my first stop doing an internet search was Amazon (.ca). A Whirlpool model was $61.49 Cdn and the cheapest one (non-whirlpool) was listed at $6.99 Cdn.

I get the cost of original brand items but 10 times more?! Come on. The worst part is I now am concerned that at 6.99 it won't last but at 61 I'm being ripped off. Is there a brand that you are using that is fairly priced and dependable?
 

edee_em

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2005
Messages
55
Location
Ontario, Canada
Sorry for the number of posts but I am doing this real time and I came across another issue.

I have a Klein Tools (MM400) multimeter. It has two settings for the ohm readings. The first setting is when you move the dial to the noise signal/ohm symbol. It shows OL on the screen and the omega/ohm symbol on the far right side of the display. When I push the SEL button (I'll call that second setting), the display changes to show an M in front of the omega/ohm symbol and the OL is still showing. The main difference between the two, when I put the leads together, is that on the first setting, the unit beeps and displays 0.0 and on the second setting it doesn't beep but displays 0.0.

When I did the test on the thermistor I got two different readings. On the first setting I got nothing and OL shows on screen. On the second setting 10.0 shows up with a K in front of the omega/ohm symbol on the right side of the display.

I have an older analog Sperry SP-5A lying around and tried that to see what would happen (with a fresh battery). I only have the one setting for ohms (X1K) so I put it there and when I tested the unit the needle jumped to show 10 ohms (10 000 I guess with the x1000).

Three different settings on two different multimeters and two of the results show a good(?) thermistor. One setting shows a bad thermistor. Any thoughts on which one is correct? Thanks
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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I don't know, now it gets interesting, what meter to trust right?

Take it to Jeff's appliance shop in Hamilton Ontario and he can ohm test it for you with his meter.

J.R.Appliance Service
682 Fennell Avenue East
Hamilton Ontario L8V 1V4
Contact info: Phone # 905-318-5955 or (905) 385-9274

All the meters should be set to K ohms, NOT M ohms.:)

Jake
 

edee_em

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Messages
55
Location
Ontario, Canada
Thanks for the referral Jake. I read a lot of confusing and contradictory information where some say thermistors don't have continuity and, of course, I as many that say they do. Is there a definitive answer on that? I checked out the manual on my multimeter and the two settings differ in that the first is an audible continuity test and the second setting is resistance. So that leads to another question: can the thermistor have resistance but not continuity (assuming there is supposed to be continuity)?
 

Jake

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I use this multimeter on all my service calls:
It always shows the proper ohms per the temperature I'm testing it at.:)

Mind you, I buy a new meter every 5-7 years and never had any meter issues in 33 years, buying fresh meters. They are not expensive.

Jake
 

edee_em

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2005
Messages
55
Location
Ontario, Canada
I think the multimeter is okay and it is new. The issue was with me not understanding the settings for ohm readings, but I think I have that sorted out. As I mentioned, the first setting is for audible continuity check and the second is for resistance.

I checked the thermistor for continuity, but assuming thermistors don't have continuity (many yeses and noes on internet), when I tested for continuity, it failed, obviously. That led me to believe the thermistor was dead. But then I checked for resistance and it tested okay for all ranges. I followed one test using a blow dryer to watch the resistance change as heat was applied. In that test the thermistor seems okay. Is the thermistor okay??

So...... if the thermistor is okay where do I go next?
 

Jake

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Messages
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Thermistor's won't measure continuity, they measure per temperature.:)

So...... if the thermistor is okay where do I go next?
You'll need to have Sears come out, you may have a underlying problem and need a tech to completely go through the dryer to find the problem.

But since the dryer is 18 years old, it would likely cost more for a tech to come out and fix than its worth.

It's probably time to retire it, the average life of all appliances now is only 8-12 years.

Jake
 

edee_em

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2005
Messages
55
Location
Ontario, Canada
It's probably time to retire it,
And ship it to Arizona like we are doing with so many of our retired Canadians :)!

Let me keep you for a second longer, if you don't mind. When I took off the duct cover, I noticed that the cover over the blower wheel was installed backwards with the seal towards the fan rather than squeezing up to the duct cover. That's on me when I repaired a dead heating element many years ago. They aren't related but I took the opportunity to clean the unit out while I had it all apart. Could it be that that let in a lot of lint/dirt into the motor and that it is the motor that is overheating causing things to shut down? Asking for a friend...:whistle:
 

Jake

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Messages
112,952
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McMullen Valley, Arizona
Could it be that that let in a lot of lint/dirt into the motor and that it is the motor that is overheating causing things to shut down? Asking for a friend...:whistle:
Bingo! LOL

I believe you nailed it.:)

Jake
 
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