FIXED 110.82832100 Kenmore Elite HE3 won't start

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pudmore

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Model Number
110.82832100
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
1-5 years
I did find one other poster that had the same problem, but he has a slightly different model, and had no luck as well, soooo here I go.

I have a Kenmore Elite HE3 dryer, model# 110.82832100. All the lights are work (the unit is getting power) and it appears to be working, the door is closed etc. When I try to start it, everything is fine, no trouble selecting a program or anything. I hit and hold "start", it beeps like it's supposed to, I hear a "click", but it doesn't start. No error codes.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Paul.
 

pudmore

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HE3 dryer won't start fix

I repaired this problem. Turns out this is a relatively common problem. If you have the following:

1) Control panel is working
2) When you push the "start" button, it beeps (once) like it should, and you hear a "click" sound but nothing happens.
3) No error codes are appearing.

Then the thermal fuse is probably blown. Easy peasy, ten minute job tops. The fuses cost between $8.00 and $20.00 depending on where you get them. The part number can be found in you're parts list. For me it was #59 in the bulkhead parts diagram, part number WP3390719. To get to the fuse:

1) Unplug the dryer
2) Remove the lint filter
3) Remove the bottom panel, two screws or bolts on either side in the upper corners. My units are stacked so I had to tilt the dryer back a little so the panel would come out
4) Remove the lint duct assembly, a big dark thing right in front of your face. Two screws or bolts hold this in place along with a rubberized clip in the bottom. I loosened the clip a little, there's a bolt underneath.
5) Right on tip of the lint duct, to the right of the squirrel cage lint fant, there is a white plastic thing with two wires attached, this is the thermal fuse. there's another plastic thing further to the right, this is black, it's the thermistor, not the fuse.
6) You can test fuse by removing the wires and putting a jumper across them. When you jump it, the dryer would work. Remember to plug and unplug the dryer. You also may be able to test the fuse itself with a continuity test, but didn't try that.
7) Make sure the dryer is unplugged, replace the fuse, and put it all back together.


Paul.
 

pudmore

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One last thing

I just tested the fuse with a continuity test and it's dead. This is probably a safer way to test the fuse than jumping the wires. If you don't have a continuity tester, just make sure that the wires are clear and not touching anything when you test. Don't want to short anything out.

Paul.
 

eecasti01

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Kenmore Elite HE3 110.82832100

I have a Kenmore HE3 Elite Dryer 110.82832100 and it's not working as of now. Yesterday it was working fine, but when I shut the door it started on its own. I upplugged it and plugged it back it ...it then displayed "PF" and the control panel was locked.... I could not turn it off or make a different selection unless I unplugged it. Once I plugged it back in, it displayed 22 minutes and again the display was locked the dryer started to run on its own.

I kept it unplugged over night and plugged it back in this morning, but now it is not working at all....no lights, no sounds or beeps. HELP.
 
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Jake

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eecasti01

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Kenmore Elite HE3

Thanks Jake. Is this something that normally goes bad after more than 5-10 yrs? I will order it today. This will be my first attempt to fix an appliance. :D
 

Jake

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Yes, its just a part that can wear out like other parts. I wouldn't say its the most common part to go out though.

Keep us posted.

Jake
 

deckeda

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I did find one other poster that had the same problem, but he has a slightly different model, and had no luck as well, soooo here I go.

I have a Kenmore Elite HE3 dryer, model# 110.82832100. All the lights are work (the unit is getting power) and it appears to be working, the door is closed etc. When I try to start it, everything is fine, no trouble selecting a program or anything. I hit and hold "start", it beeps like it's supposed to, I hear a "click", but it doesn't start. No error codes.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Paul.

Same exact problems and symptoms here on another "HE3" model, 110.82826102

The new thermal fuse I bought from the Repair Clinic didn't fix it. Guess I'll check for continuity next time first.
 

Jake

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Yes, you can't just assume the thermal fuse is blown you always have to test it with a ohm meter first.

Jake
 

deckeda

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And yet here I am with the same issue as described by the OP nonetheless.

One detail I'll add is that SOMETIMES when I attempt to start it the motor gives a slight jerk, like a twitch only. Once, I held the Start button in and the motor twitched a few times in a row before stopping.

I downloaded a service manual for the Duet series from another H3 thread. No error codes in or out of diagnostic mode. Door switch seems to work OK in or out of diagnostic mode.

The service manual appears to say to test the motor next, which presumably also tests the centrifugal switch? and then the belt switch. And after that, the wiring going to the computer.

Seems like a whole mess of stuff to remove and take apart to move forward on this. Can't seem to adequately reach any more relevant wires or terminals with only the bottom panel off.
 

Jake

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Ok, use the repair manual I posted above and turn the breaker off to the dryer first, or unplug your dryer. Then remove the lower access panel below the door and remove the lint duct assembly and check for something stuck in your blower wheel, thats sounds like your issue, since you said the motor does jerk when you start it.

Jake
 

deckeda

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Too funny.

At your suggestion, Jake, I now did just that and the crazy thing works again. But I'll still wonder if that means the motor is getting weak, because there sure didn't seem like anything was stuck or otherwise obstructing the motor.

I first turned the squirrel cage and it turned easily enough, and no wobble. Next I turned the drum from the inside and was also able to spin it a full rotation or so. Never felt anything "give" or ease up. I plugged it back in and it runs now.

I should have also added that I DID have a hint of this last week. It would fail to startup but a second try would get it going. That worked twice. In retrospect I suppose it's silly to think a fuse would be intermittent. Maybe the motor's resistance has increased and is on the way out anyway. I'll spin the inside of the tub from now on if/when it happens again.

Thanks again for the hint, Jake and for your generosity.
 
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Jake

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That is very interesting, then if it keeps happening its either the motor or control board thats bad.

Here's the motor for your model you can order here:
Manufacturer part number 279787


This video shows you how to get to the motor and replace it:

[video=youtube_share;tm1ZCiAnxto]http://youtu.be/tm1ZCiAnxto?hd=1[/video]


Here's the control board for your model:
Manufacturer part number WP8546219


Here is the online repair manual for the Whirlpool Duet dryer: https://www.applianceblog.com/manuals/Duetdry.pdf

It shows how to get access to the control board & console assembly on page 4-2 through 4-4.

Unplug or turn the breaker off to your dryer first.

Jake
 

deckeda

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Thanks again for the links, I'll keep that in mind.

That video is well done. Almost makes me want to take it apart. Almost.
 

Jake

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Ok, sounds good, glad to help.

Jake
 

deckeda

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Spoke too soon. First load of clothes and it won't start.

Removed most of the clothes and it started and ran for maybe a minute before stopping. No indicator that clothes were "dry," lights and control panel looked normal, motor just stopped.

Tried a few other settings including Air Dry and Time Dry, to hopefully rule out potential weirdness with moisture sensor and heater. Same result no matter what, won't start or maybe starts and runs for maybe a minute before turning off.

Currently, I can't get it to start up at all, even when spinning the drum by hand first.
 

Jake

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Look here: https://www.applianceblog.com/manuals...et_8558722.pdf

Proceed to page 6, test# 5.

Also do the test# 6 for the door switch.

In diagnostics test when you open and close the door do you not get the OE display or a beep?

Here is the online repair manual for the Whirlpool Duet/Kenmore HE3/HE3T/HE4 dryer: https://www.applianceblog.com/manuals/Duetdry.pdf
Page 4-6 tells you how to access it. You can print it out as well.

Check the door switch with an ohm meter(UNPLUG YOUR DRYER FIRST). Should have continuity(0-1 ohm) between white wire and blue wire when switch is pushed in.

Here's the door switch for your model you can order if bad:
Manufacturer's Number: WP8283288


If the door switch is fine then its the control board, you can order it from the link I posted to it above.

Jake
 

deckeda

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Thanks for the new links. Those docs seem more concise for troubleshooting.

Regarding your suggestions:
page 6, test# 5, Button and LED test

I'd say it passes. This test, if I'm understanding correctly, seems to be for a condition where some or all don't light up or some or all buttons don't work. The buttons and LEDs have always been fine. Diagnostic mode also has them all light up and with 88 in the display, unless the door is open. Then I see OE.

page 6, test# 6, Door switch test

I'd say it passes. The switch has always worked as expected: With door closed it permits the Start button to beep once and relay to engage. That hasn't changed. With door open it beeps 3 times and the time flashes, as expected. In diagnostic mode I get the expected OE displayed when the door is open.

I noticed the tech sheet recommends Page 3, test #2, Motor Circuit test for a "won't start" condition, which was one of the earlier suggestions.

I'll be taking it down off the washer today, disassembling and testing the motor. The "good" news is, it will no longer even twitch or jerk as mentioned previously. Hoping that means a problem with the motor or electronics is that much easier to find.
 

deckeda

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Page3, Test #2, Motor Circuit Test
I accessed the machine control electronics and disconnected the P1 harness. The instructions didn't say to disconnect the harness but I didn't know how else to put the meter leads on anything there. I'm assuming they didn't mean to test at the board's plug ...

At the disconnected harness
, I measured across pins 3 and 4 (dk blue and lt blue wires) I got from between 2.1-2.3 ohms. The tech sheet says to replace the machine control electronics if I get between 1-6 ohms.

Regardless, I removed the back cover and to the motor windings tests.

FYI, my HE3's motor doesn't have wires going to the windings (Violet for Start, Wh/Orange for Main). The only two wires on the motor are the blue ones coming from the belt switch. Took a while to visually match up the terminals on the motor; I suppose it's got bare copper going straight to the respective windings that I can't see from my vantage point.

I removed the harness and measured at the terminals where the windings' wires would have been, each time against the "back" blue wire (front of dryer) as per instructions ... between 2.0-2.5 ohms for each circuit. A later test was more like 1.9-2.0 for the Start and all over the place for Main. Tech sheet said to expect at least 2.4 ohms. The meter danced around a lot; it was very difficult to keep the leads on. So I'm not sure if that's actually too low and out of spec on both Start and Main, given the meter wasn't as steady as I expected.

********************************
I don't fully understand my results. If the control board should work with a load between 1-6 ohms the motor circuit seems to deliver that, but on the other hand the motor isn't really supposed to measure below 2.4 ohms on either Start nor Main. If one is clearly bad I'll replace the part; if both are questionable I'll junk the dryer.
 

Jake

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Yes, its most likely the control board rather than the motor on this model. I replace more control boards than motors 2 to 1.:)

If for some reason the control board doesn't fix it, you have a 365 day full refund, less shipping, even if you install it and it doesn't solve it.

Jake
 
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