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FIXED 110.82874820 Kenmore Washer Series 70 spin problems


Premium Member
May 16, 2023
Elk, WA
Model Number
Sears Kenmore
More than 10 years
My 33 year-old Kenmore Series 70 started having intermittent problems spinning. Water would pump out fine when spinning, but not when it wasn't spinning, and it would just sit there and buzz. Upon disassembly I found a damaged rubber coupling on the back side of the motor. I replaced that and with the cabinet still off, bypassed the lid switch and it spun up fine three times, pumping water. On the fourth it went back to buzzing with no movement, and I've tried different spin cycles on the timer with no difference. I then tested the start capacitor a number of times. Each time it tested between 203 to 207 micro-farads. This falls within the range of 189 to 227 printed on the side, so I think that's not the problem. I'm running out of ideas. Is it new motor time? Anyone have any other ideas, please?
Update: I removed the motor control switch and took the cover off. It looked like the upper contacts had scorched the inside of the cover. I took some fine sandpaper and cleaned up the contacts, reassembled, and reattached to the motor. I also blew out the motor with compressed air before reinstalling. It seems to start and spin more reliably now, but it will still occasionally fail to start spinning and sit there and buzz, then go dead for a while. At one point, power seemed to fluctuate to the motor, while I could hear the motor switch clicking. Also seems to be some kind of smell that doesn't seem to be coming from the switch or motor. Does the plastic arm on the switch come into contact with moving parts and wear down?
If your washer inexplicably shuts down but then starts up 15 minutes later, that's because there's a thermal switch on the motor preventing it from running if motor gets too hot.

You'll need WP661600 for your washer. If your machine is in good shape (not rusty) then I emphatically recommend repairing and NOT purchasing a new machine.
Yes, the machine is in decent shape, and I'd rather not replace it. It looks like WP661600 is the whole motor? Is the thermal switch integral to the motor?

I did some more starts and stops. I got it to start spinning a few more times. One time, it started very slow and wouldn't spin up to full speed, as if it wasn't getting the boost from the capacitor. The other times no problem. If it starts spinning ok, it'll usually continue fine. Then on further attempts at starting, it went back to buzzing and failing to start, and I can't hear any clicking coming from the motor control switch. It will shut completely down if I let it sit there and buzz, and like you said, might try to start a few minutes later, which I think may be the thermal switch turning off power.

I failed to mention in my original post that I can spin the drum with some effort by turning the transmission end of the coupler auger by hand, although there's some resistance.
Yes, thermal switch is integral with motor. It is not available separately. It should be fairly hard to turn the motor coupling by hand to spin the basket. It should be easy to turn in the opposite direction and make washer agitate by hand.
Got a new motor put in. Looked like it got knocked around in shipping a little bit and the switch case was a little damaged. I straightened out the contacts so the harness would plug in. We've been catching up on dirty laundry and so far 5 loads and no problems. I'm hoping it'll stay fixed for another 33 years!

Thanks dashriprok!

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