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110.91278100 Kenmore series 70 washer stopped mid-cycle and not starting

app_blog.0306

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2022
Messages
8
Location
United States
Model Number
110.91278100
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
More than 10 years
My trusty old Kenmore series 70 washer Model # 110.91278100 stopped mid-cycle and is not re-starting. During a load of laundry yesterday the washer filled and agitated for the first wash cycle but did not drain (or move on to the rinse cycle).

I noticed a slight burnt smell at the time.

I tried re-starting the machine at different points/cycles, it made a buzzing, but it did not start. Eventually the buzzing stopped but washer still did not start. Today, the water has gone down. But still when I try to start the machine, it the buzzing sound is back, and it still doesn't start (or fill or drain).

The lid switch seems to click as always. I replaced the lid switch, motor couplers, and timer in Nov. 2021.

Based on what I have read in other posts I am thinking it might be the capacitor, motor, or motor starter switch? I am asking for advice for:

1) What would be the best order to troubleshoot the capacitor, motor, and motor starter switch?

2) What is the best method to test the capacitor, motor, and motor starter switch to tell which part is faulty (before buying)?

3) Best method to get the remaining water out of the machine?


Thanks for any help anyone can offer.
 
Last edited:

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Possibly something is jammed/stuck in the water pump causing that motor buzzing/humming sound. Remove the 2 rubber hoses to the water pump and get a flashlight and look inside it.

Unplug your machine first!

Here's the water pump for your model:
Drain Pump WP3363394


Here's the video on how to access it:


Getting the water pump out without flooding your house.

I use a pinch off tool, you can buy it at Sears:


You pinch the tub-to-pump rubber hose off.

Keep us posted.

Jake
 

Jake

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Thanks for your reply Jake. I will try taking the pump off tomorrow and post an update.
Ok sounds good.

Thinking drive coupler because of the "buzzing". Put it to spin and let it buzz for a minute and see if the water drains out.
If is was a drive coupler it would still drain because the water pump is located directly on the motor shaft.:)

Jake
 

app_blog.0306

Premium Member
Joined
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Messages
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Location
United States
Ok, I removed the pump and did not see anything blocking it.

The inner "wheels" seem to move freely.

IMG_0517.JPG

And the part of the pump that attaches to the motor shaft doesn't seem striped or misshapen.

IMG_0519.JPG

I don't see any obvious burnt or damaged wires (with the motor still in place)

IMG_0522.JPG

I did notice that the fuse was flipped (this must have happened the second time I tried to get washer to drain, as I checked it the first time and it wasn't )

Should I put the pump back on at his point and try again or what would be best to troubleshoot next?

Thanks,
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Leave the drain pump off and see if the motor runs.

Jake
 

Jake

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If the motor still does not run, then check your motor capacitor.

This is the way we ohm test the motor capacitor--->Make sure the washer is unplugged, Set your meter on a high ohms scale. Touch the probes to the capacitor terminals. Your meter should show several thousand ohms then fall back to infinity. Reverse the probes and the meter will show the same thing.

Here's the motor capacitor for your model:
WP8572717 Capacitor


Let us know.

Jake
 

app_blog.0306

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Thank you for your reply.

So, with the pump still off, the machine did start and run (on spin cycle, using lid switch bypass).

I also went ahead and pulled the capacitor out and tried testing it using a digital multimeter ...

- On the 200M setting it just rolled through various number readings, sometimes returning to 1, and on subsequent tries not.
- On the 2000 setting it initially it seemed to stop on about 179, before returning to 1, but on subsequent tries the reading just rolled through numbers.
- I tried the 200M setting again and it was the same, it just rolled through various number.

Is the capacitor working intermittently and on its way out?

Should I just go ahead and order and replace?

(thanks for the link for the part)
 

app_blog.0306

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I wanted to clarify my last post -

On 200M setting the meter slowly climbs to "1", and then other times it does not - it starts to climb and then dips back down.
 

Jake

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Are you using a analog meter?


Jake
 

Jake

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Ok, the capacitor should be fine then, since the numbers do change on your digital meter. If the numbers did not change on your digital meter, then it would be a bad capacitor.

But you also mentioned its not filling either now? Is the tub still full of water, or did you drain it.?

Probably the timer causing the issue. Next time it doesn't want to start or fill, try lifting up or pushing down on the timer knob and shaft while it's in the start position (Pulled out). If it starts and stops, replace the timer:
Timer WP661597


Jake
 

app_blog.0306

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Hello again

To answer your questions -

- The machine does fill - that wasn't the original issue. The machine filled, started washing but then stopped working - at the start of the spin cycle the first time, before draining. Also, the circuit breaker on my main box was flipped off; reset it and the machine just makes a buzzing sound when I try to start it. I replaced the lid switch, motor couplers, and timer in Nov. 2021.

- So, yes I had to drain the machine before removing the pump to check for blockage.

- When I had the pump off you suggested seeing if the motor ran - So, with the pump still off, the machine did start and did run (on spin cycle, using lid switch bypass).



Today's update ...

I ordered a new capacitor and installed it. The machine filled, and started washing - but then stopped mid wash cycle. The circuit breaker on my main box was flipped off again. I reset it and when I tried to start the machine it just made a buzzing sound - same as before.

So what would be best to check next? Should I try to get a proper capacitance meter to double check the old and new capacitors (perhaps I got a dud)?

What would cause the circuit breaker to flip?

Also, is there a way to test the motor?

I attached a video of the buzzing sound, if helpful.

Thanks for any advice you can offer.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0614.MOV
    5.5 MB
Last edited:

Jake

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Ok, now leave the pump off and set the motor on the floor and run it in agitate, so the motor runs alone on the floor, then we can determine if its the motor itself or the gearcase/basket drive/clutch.

Jake
 

app_blog.0306

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OK I pulled the motor - it ran for a minute and then stopped, and then just made humming noise. I couldn't start it a second time.

And I was finally able to borrow a proper capacitance meter, and the capacitor is 197 µF, and so within the range the capacitor is labeled with - 189-227 µF.

Also I have noticed there is some oil under the machine. I assume that is the transmission leaking from the seal - but not sure if related to the current issue. The shaft where the motor connects to the transmission turns easily.
 

Attachments

  • washer motor.mp4
    18.5 MB

Jake

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