1940s/50s Monarch electric range

bkuhlman

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Paulden, AZ
Model Number
F57P
I have a Monarch twin oven electric range from the 40s/50s. There is no make/model, information that is usually found somewhere on such appliances. The model number I've provided is an educated guess based on my best internet sleuthing. The electrician needs to find the maximum amps in order to replace the plug and check the wiring. I'd be grateful if anyone can help me find the maximum amps for this range. I've attached a couple of photos. The second is a plate attached to the removable oven heating element. This is the ONLY info I can find actually attached to the range.
 

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rickgburton

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The range uses a 40 amp circuit breaker. Use a regular range cord available at any of the home centers. When an appliance gets that old model numbers are not that helpful. There's no way to look it up.
 

bkuhlman

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The range uses a 40 amp circuit breaker. Use a regular range cord available at any of the home centers. When an appliance gets that old model numbers are not that helpful. There's no way to look it up.
I believe this is the information we needed. Thanks for your help. Much appreciated.
 

bkuhlman

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Hi Rick, I hope I can burden you for a little more information. The electrician finally got the part to put in the circuit and change the plug. We started turning on burners and all was going well until we turned on the baker/roaster. That tripped the breaker. It looks like the element is enclosed in a metal box under the roaster. All the wires going to it look fine. There is also a temperature probe inside the box where the roaster sits. Can you tell me what we should be looking for and what parts we might need to replace? The plastic cover over the light on top (not in the oven) is cracked also. Is there anywhere I might find a replacement?
 
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rickgburton

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It looks like the element is enclosed in a metal box under the roaster.
The whole thing pulls out then turn it over to see the element. Take a pic and post it here.
 

rickgburton

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No and it's way to close. That looks like the back of the oven. Take a pic of the inside of the oven.
It looks like the element is enclosed in a metal box under the roaster.
Take a pic of the bake element.
 

bkuhlman

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That's the bottom of the roaster. Here's a couple more pics. I took the roaster 'box' out and set it on top. That's the bottom of it in the first pic. The other pic, I tried to get a shot of where the wires are attached inside the front of the oven.
 

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rickgburton

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OK, what you're calling a "roaster" I remember it as a "warmer". Oven on the left and warmer on the right. So, I'm going to need more information. Show me the other side or top of the unit you have out in the first picture. What knob did you turn that trips the breaker? What do the two knobs I circled control?
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bkuhlman

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The above picture is the bottom of the 'box' that the roaster sits in. I removed a screw and was able to pull it out, but the wires are still attached so I couldn't pull it far. I set it on top of the stove with the bottom facing to show the wires and how they are attached underneath. First pic below is the top of stove open with roaster in place and lid set to the side. Second picture shows the whole range. I don't believe the drawer that is pulled out is heated at all - just storage (I could be wrong). You first question, what's on the other side of this unit: it's an open box that the roaster sits in. What you see is the underside. The dial to the left with the button above, controls the oven. The dial to the right controls the roaster. I taped over the dial to keep it from being turned on. That's the one that tripped the breaker when it was turned on.
 

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rickgburton

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OK, I got it now. Disconnect the two power wires on the bottom. With a meter check from each post to ground. There should be no continuity. If there is, the roaster is shorted. If there is no continuity to ground the problem is going to be the switch you have tape on. The switch looks to be a thermostatically controlled switch. It's going to be hard to find a replacement but it might be fixable. I need pictures of the front and back of the switch. Leave the wires connected to the switch and remove the knob. There's probably a couple screws securing it to the range.
- just storage (I could be wrong).
You're not wrong.
 

bkuhlman

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I hope this is right. Forgive me, I'm a dunce at electrical things; you should win an award for your patience. First 3 pics are the inside where the knob connects. I don't know what that silver box is, but let me know if I need to take it apart and send a pic (I'll give it a try). The last pic is the front where the knob connects. The knob actually pulls out (feels like a spring pulling it back), then unscrews - a pill to figure out, but I got it.
 

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rickgburton

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The thermostat doesn't show any signs of a short but that doesn't mean it's good. Check the roaster first. Also look for any wires that might have worn into a metal edge somewhere between the the thermostat and the roaster. Look for any burn marks. The short is either in the thermostat, the roaster, or the wires between the two. It's easy to check the wires and roaster. That way I won't need to explain how to check the t-stat...lol. Process of elimination. That thermostat is not repairable. You may be able to find something that will work if it's bad. The metal box next to the thermostat is the back of the clock assembly. Take it off and inspect the wires. Look for anything obvious.
 

bkuhlman

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Finally got to check this. 1st pic is wires going to the box that holds the roaster. Some are wrapped at the end but no signs of burn marks or other problems. 2nd and 3rd pics are the inside of range where wires attach to stove. Again, all seem fine, no signs of burn marks. 4th pic - I found that I could remove the small screws on the side and the box that the roaster sits in separates from the outer (silver) box. The thermostat just pulled out of both (you can see the whole it was inserted through near top of 4th pic). However, when I went to separate them, I noticed this layer of white cotton-looking material and I think it's asbestos (I had read they used asbestos in many ovens around this period), so I didn't remove it any further.

Maybe this will help explain. The stove had been sitting outside when I found it. We had recently had some rain. I'm wondering if water might have gotten down between the two 'boxes' and caused the short. I don't know what is on the inside of that box since I didn't continue to separate them (not knowing IF that was asbestos), so I don't know what is exposed on the other side of those wires on the bottom (1st pic).

Also, I did not take the box off behind the clock yet. There is a round rubber piece on top of the glass in the center that is cracked and seems very fragile. I will try to get to that in a couple days.
 

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rickgburton

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I'm going to take a guess here that you don't have a DMM. If you did, we would already know what the problem is. LOL. It's not asbestos, it's fiberglass.

DMM's are available at any home center or Walmart or online. You can pick up a good one for under $20. It will take you about 20 minutes or less to figure out how they work and they come in handy for a lot more than just appliance repair.
 

bkuhlman

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You would be right; I don't have a DMM, or even know what that is. But I assume the electrician who replaced the plug might. Of course, it will cost me more that $20 to have him come back out here, LOL. So, I'll try to get to Walmart for a DMM.

Glad that's not asbestos. So, should I take that inner box out and examine whatever the wires are going to inside?
 

rickgburton

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No, on all vintage appliances it's best not to take anything apart unless you need to. Let's find out where the short is before taking anything apart. This is a good DMM (Digital Multi-Meter). Click on this part link and you'll find a video "How to use a DMM"
 
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