1950 Coldspot Refrigerator- need to connect electrical cord

edw927

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Coldspot Refrigerator wiring

You may have have disconnected the relay inside the box. Between pulling the wires off and disconnecting the relay inside, the hot wire relay may be damaged but it's not a problem. We will find out as we go. Follow each one of these steps exactly as I have them. This isn't hard to do so take your time and write down any measurements. If you have any questions as we go just ask, don't guess.

STEP 1
Turn the cold control to the off position and remove the light bulb inside the refrigerator.

STEP 2
Remove the three wires on the relay going to the compressor and mark them as I've indicated in the diagram
View attachment 25897

STEP 3
Remove the other two wires on the relay coming from the cabinet
View attachment 25898

STEP 4
At this point there should be no wires connected to the hot wire relay. Set your meter to check ohms on the lowest scale, R x 1. On the relay, measure the resistance between the two screws where compressor wire #3 and #2 were connected. Write it down.
View attachment 25893

STEP 5
Measure the resistance on the relay between A-B, C-B, D-B and A-C. Write them down and set the relay off to the side for now.
View attachment 25894

STEP 6
Leave the meter on the same ohms scale and measure from each of the 3 wires coming from the cabinet to a ground or cabinet screw. Your meter should indicate 1 or open for all three wires. Anything other than 1 or open STOP and let me know. If all three measurements are 1 or open go to step 7

STEP 7
I labeled the wires coming from the cabinet 1=white 2=black and 3= the wire with the red tape around it. Connect your meter to #1-white wire and #3- red tape. Your meter should indicate 1 or open. Turn the cold control to the on position. Your meter should indicate 0 or closed.
View attachment 25895

STEP 8
Turn the cold control to the OFF position and replace the light bulb in the light socket. Make sure it is a good working light bulb. Connect your meter to wires #1 and #2 from cabinet. Meter should indicate 1 or open. Push the door switch in. Meter should indicate 0 or a .02 or a .01 or 0.0
View attachment 25896

Don't worry if the measurements are not exactly the same. I'm only checking where the wires are going. Post back your results.
Wow, you are very talented at creating graphics. I will try those things. I could also buy a new relay if necessary. I will be honest I am used to working with electricity to the extent of changing outlets and switches, wiring things with a simple wiring structure, but I have never used any kind of meter. Now I do have a meter that I bought to check for voltage, but have not even take it out of the package. If this is the type of meter you are talking, I can give it a try. When you talk about measuring the resistance, I'm assuming you are just referring to the whatever reading I get on each wire/pole.
 

rickgburton

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You don't need to click on "Reply With Quote" each time. Just write your answer and then click on " Post Quick Reply" at the bottom. Resistance is measured in ohms. Take a few minutes to understand how your meter works first.
 

edw927

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OK. I am a little familiar with the meter now, so I re-read your directions. Since I will be measuring resistance between things, I assume that means I will have one probe on one post or wire and the other probe on the one I am comparing it to. Does it matter which one I have the red probe on and which one I have the black probe on? I'm sort of assuming not since I am measuring a difference between two things, and from info I read on the meter, if I do it backward, I'm just going to come up with a negative number of the same difference.
 

edw927

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I thought I was measuring resistance, not continuity. My question had more to do with what I am touching the probes to. I cannot quite tell if you are indicating that I am touching them to each side of the same post, or to different posts. The same with wires. Do I put the probes on the same wire or different wires. I did watch videos on it last night and the person seemed to be touching the probes to the different polarities like on a battery- not on something like a screw (post). I can check a video again.

Also there is that one screw (post) that I cannot remove that has the two black wires attached. I will probably have to cut through that screw to removed the wires with the ring terminals
 

edw927

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I thought I was measuring resistance, not continuity. My question had more to do with what I am touching the probes to. I cannot quite tell if you are indicating that I am touching them to each side of the same post, or to different posts. The same with wires. Do I put the probes on the same wire or different wires. I did watch videos on it last night and the person seemed to be touching the probes to the different polarities like on a battery- not on something like a screw (post). I can check a video again.

Also there is that one screw (post) that I cannot remove that has the two black wires attached. I will probably have to cut through that screw to removed the wires with the ring terminals
OK. I have wires labeled and I know that the resistance between post 2 & 3 is 2.3, but I want to make sure that you were able to tell from my picture that the two wires going to the compressor that are off to the side are actually crossed. One wire actually crosses under the other to connect to the post they are attached to. So based on that I don't know if you have the posts labelled correctly. If post A is the common post for the cabinet and the compressor, then the lower post on the right side of the relay is where wire #3 was connected, and the post above that where wire #2 was connected is post #3. What I am trying to say is that wire 3 was attached to post B. I can take measurements as you instructed me to, but I wanted to make sure you knew that those wires from the compressor crossed each other.
 

edw927

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OK, here we go....

Step 4: resistance between posts 2 and 3 to compressor: 2.2

Step 5: A-B: 4.1
C-B: 1
D-B: 1
A-D: 1

Step 6: Not sure if I did what you wanted in terms of using a ground or cabinet screw- just placed one probe on random screw inside access area of refrigerator. All wires
read 1

Step 7: Whether cold control was on or off, both read 1

Step 8: Whether light bulb was in or out, both readings were 1
 

rickgburton

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OK good job. What two wires are connected together going to the compressor? On the three black wires going to the compressor measure the resistance between 1-2, 1-3, and 2-3
 

rickgburton

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OK, The three wires from the cabinet, cold control off, light bulb out connect your meter to #2 and #3 then turn the cold control on and see if your meter changes from 1 to 0. If not, connect your meter to #1 and #2 and see if it changes.
 

edw927

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OK, I'm going to try to address the first part of your first question to make sure I am on the right track? I took a picture of just the wires that went to the compressor, they are part of a thicker cord which encase all three wires. The white tags on them are just how I wrote their numbers on them. I didn't straighten out the wires because I wanted to make sure that I remember how they crossed over each other when I go to to reattach them. Wire #1 was the one stretching off by itself to connect on the common post. Then it was wires 2 and 3 that were bent off and leading off in the other direction toward the compressor.compressor wires.jpg Now I will start taking readings on them.

OK. It looks like some of my message got lost. In trying to get the resistance between the wires going to the compressor, I found it to be really difficult. The meter jumped all over the place. I just kept trying to hold the probes in place long enough for the meter to stand still. Then I tried to do it a second time to see if I could come up with a similar reading. In the process of all of this the ring from the ring terminal on wire 3 broke off, so I had to strip the wire down a little to expose more wire.

I do not actually stand by these readings and will be glad to do it again, but this is what I came up with:

1-2: 4.5
1-3: 9
2-3 1

Now I continue with the next part of your instructions, but I will be glad to try this section again if you think it is too far off,
 
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edw927

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OK, for the third part of what you asked. With light bulb out and cold control off, the reading between 2-3 was 1. With cold control back on, the reading jumped around for awhile, then settled at 1.5

I checked the reading between 1-2 again, and it stayed at 1.

All measurements were made with refrigerator door closed (door switch out) since we weren't measuring anything to do with the light bulb. I'll include a picture of my meter in case it is a little funky. Meter is set to resistance option and is set at lowest range which happens to be 200. Well for some reason it wouldn't let me upload the picture, but I at least told you the settings.
 

edw927

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OK, for the third part of what you asked. With light bulb out and cold control off, the reading between 2-3 was 1. With cold control back on, the reading jumped around for awhile, then settled at 1.5

I checked the reading between 1-2 again, and it stayed at 1.

All measurements were made with refrigerator door closed (door switch out) since we weren't measuring anything to do with the light bulb. I'll include a picture of my meter in case it is a little funky. Meter is set to resistance option and is set at lowest range which happens to be 200. Well for some reason it wouldn't let me upload the picture, but I at least told you the settings. OK, I got the picture this time.


meter.jpg
 

edw927

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HI. Are you still there? I don't know what to do now. I did all the steps you have asked me to and sent them awhile back.
 

edw927

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Coldspot Refrigerator wiring

I reposted with a title again because I didn't know if you were getting my previous responses. I don't know what to do next. I did everything you have previously asked.
 

rickgburton

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OK my friend I do service calls during the day and and the last couple days it's been busy. 60 years has taken it's toll on me. I wear out fast and need my beauty sleep...LOL Give me a minute to read your results.
 

edw927

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That 's OK. I'm well aware that you probably work a full time job, and you don't have to be doing this for me in the first place. I am just also unsure of the features of this site, and it often seems I am replying to my own responses, so I didn't know if that allowed you to get notification. I was just checking in with you because I was just planning to put the whole thing back together tomorrow and give up, so I just wanted to see if you had any final words. I understand the 60 year thing. I also have 60 of them.
 

rickgburton

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edw927 said:
All measurements were made with refrigerator door closed (door switch out)
With the door closed the door switch is pushed in. The three black wires you're holding in post #30 are all connected to the compressor, correct? It sounds like you may have pulled one off the compressor when the others got disconnected. The picture of your meter in post #32 is too blurry for me to see. When you hold your meter lead tips together your meter shows 0.0 or 00 and when you separate them it shows 1, correct?

edw927 said:
...the reading between 2-3 was 1. With cold control back on, the reading jumped around for awhile, then settled at 1.5
OK good, we're making progress. Make sure the bulb is good and screw it in. Turn the cold control off and close the door so the door switch is pushed in. Connect one meter lead to wire #1 coming from the cabinet then touch the other meter lead to #2 and then #3. Your meter should show 1 for one wire and 0 or 1.5 ohms for the other wire. If that is correct, turn the control on and leave the light bulb in and close the door so the door switch is pushed in. Now you should have continuity or maybe 1.5-2 ohms between all three wires. 1-2 1-3 and 2-3. We're almost done if we don't run into any problems.
 

edw927

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The bulb was good before all this happened. I will try it in another electrical appliance to make sure. I am tempted to ask how you possibly think we are making progress when all we've done is measure resistance. We haven't done anything to change the fact it doesn't work. I think perhaps the fact I have meter variances of 1 to 1.5 might mean that my meter is off, and that might really equate to 0 and 1. The dilemma that I have been facing is that although an electrician couldn't fix it, and a refrigerator repair man couldn't fix it, they told me to contact Sears since it originally came from them, and Sears doesn't release their schematics to to others. I did schedule with a Sears repair man who will be coming on Saturday. I don't think he can fix it either because I also learned that Sears doesn't keep their schematics for appliances over 10 years old. But if no one can fix it, then I figure I might as well try to fix it myself (with your help). If you think we can fix it, I will cancel the appointment with Sears.
 

rickgburton

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LOL.... OK my sceptical friend, let me answer your questions in reverse order:

edw927 said:
...If you think we can fix it,..
I don't think we can fix it, I know we can as long as you do your part.

edw927 said:
Sears doesn't keep their schematics for appliances over 10 years old.....Sears doesn't release their schematics to to others.
That is so true! In fact no manufacturer will give out any service information on any appliance. They never have and they never will. That's OK we don't need them.

edw927 said:
The dilemma that I have been facing is that although an electrician couldn't fix it, and a refrigerator repair man couldn't fix it,....
What can I say, they're just not as good as I am. I have never had an appliance I couldn't fix. The reason an electrician couldn't fix it, he has no knowledge of refrigeration systems. The refrigerator repairman couldn't fix it because.....well, to be honest I don't know why he couldn't fix it. As you can tell by now it does take a little time. Maybe he just didn't want to take the time. Possibly he doesn't know anything about the older refrigerator system. Did he say why he couldn't fix it??

edw927 said:
I am tempted to ask how you possibly think we are making progress when all we've done is measure resistance. We haven't done anything to change the fact it doesn't work.
Ahhhhh.....but we have grasshopper. You see, while you're taking measurements I'm making a schematic. I'm not teaching you refrigerator repair. You're just my hands and eyes. That's why it's so important you do your part and do it correctly. As long as you're following my instructions you are doing it correctly.


edw927 said:
I think perhaps the fact I have meter variances of 1 to 1.5 might mean that my meter is off,
rickgburton said:
The picture of your meter in post #32 is too blurry for me to see. When you hold your meter lead tips together your meter shows 0.0 or 00 and when you separate them it shows 1, correct?
I'm looking to see what meter you have and if it's on the right scale and setting and if it's working correctly. You haven't posted another picture of your meter yet and you haven't answered my question yet. That's what I mean by your part.

rickgburton said:
Make sure the bulb is good and screw it in. Turn the cold control off and close the door so the door switch is pushed in. Connect one meter lead to wire #1 coming from the cabinet then touch the other meter lead to #2 and then #3. Your meter should show 1 for one wire and 0 or 1.5 ohms for the other wire. If that is correct, turn the control on and leave the light bulb in and close the door so the door switch is pushed in. Now you should have continuity or maybe 1.5-2 ohms between all three wires. 1-2 1-3 and 2-3. We're almost done if we don't run into any problems.
Do your part and if we don't have any issues with the wiring I'll tell you how to connect it. Don't forget about the wires to the compressor.

Look here, maybe it will help:View attachment Ricks Appliance.pdf
 

edw927

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I'll try to answer the non-technical questions quickly.

The meter- when probes are not touching it registers 1; when they are touching it jumps around a bit, then sort of settles at 0.13 The meter just says PT- Performance Tool. It was inexpensive.

Why did other people say that couldn't fix it- When I called electrician, I talked to the guy who owns the company and told him exactly what I needed. He said OK, and he'd send a couple of guys over. They looked at if for awhile, and said they didn't know what to do with it, that they would have to ask the boss (the same guy I talked talked to). "The boss" later called back and said they didn't attach cords to appliances- even though he knew that is what I wanted in the first place.

The refrigerator repair man came out and was confused because he said it had a weird labeling system of things like 1,2,3, and L1, M and K. He didn't know what to do, so he said he'd have to ask some of his co-workers.

I dealt with an online appliance advice place for awhile, where I could email and actually talk to them. I gave them the original pictures. I sent them the model # of the refrigerator, and the model # of the relay. They kept telling me they couldn't help without having the model number (which I had given them several times). They said they had looked up the number I gave them and it doesn't exist. I copied it right off the metal plate on the refrigerator. !!

I think I have been doing my part. I've been doing everything you asked. You don't have your last set of readings yet because I have been involved in several other crises, including kitchen cabinets falling off the wall, and the contents spilling everywhere. I've had to deal with getting new slip toggles, lifting heavy cabinets over my head and finding some way to support them, and get them back in place. I was up to 4:00 am doing that before I finally went to bed this morning. So my 60 year old bones and muscles are tired and aching too. :) I will get the readings done today. Right now the refrigerator is helping to support one of the wall cabinets that I am installing. I was also planning to replace the ring terminals on the wires going to the compressor since one of them broke off, and the others are pretty fragile.
 
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