1950's or 1960's Westinghouse CC-774 Electric Range Re-Wiring Help! I refuse to quit on this thing

Andres619

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I have been doing what I can to restore a old 1950's or 1960's Westinghouse CC-774 Electric Range that was left with the house i just purchased. It would have been easier to just get a new stove but I think this thing is too is to rare and has too much character to just get rid of it. When I began trying to get all of components, none of the lighting components were operating this is because the last person who "fixed" the range, jerry-rigged the wiring not to code Since ive been working on this ive figured out that luckily all the components are working but were just not wired properly. I would be extremely grateful to anyone who can help me solve this ranges wiring out as ive had trouble finding someone who re-wires vintage electric ranges. This thing is the last thing in my house that is keeping it from becoming my home. I know im close to getting this thing functioning safely any help would be more than appreciated and would be very much grateful

*Westinghouse CC-774
http://imgur.com/3qbXmFu

My main question:
- How can i wire this thing up so all the components are functioning properly well also bypassing the the oven timer and the surface 2 prong outlet receptacle On the front of the range near switches Ive been stuck on where to put the neutral wires to complete the circuits ?

-Can i use my old working switches that powered the original surface burner using a 3 wire (red,black,white) circuit burners with newer 2 wire burners (red,black)?

*Shitty MSPaint Wiring Diagram of how it was set up
http://imgur.com/Adl6Kl7

*VIdeo of the Wiring when i first opened it up
https://vimeo.com/217579784

SERVICE MANUAL WIRING DIAGRAM PAGES FOR STOVE AND OVEN
http://i.imgur.com/TjZTfjO.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/QmaoAFs.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/SdPy7ES.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/kYbagd1.jpg

-- The range is plugged into a 50amp receptacle (checked volage and iam getting proper voltage output)
-Im using 12AWG stranded copper wire to rewire the switches and 14 AWG stranded copper to wire to rewure the light components on the stove
-Main power runs through a fuse box that has a black lead wire coming from a 20Amp fuse that protects the ranges switches, and a second 15Amp fuse that has the red lead wire that protects all the lighting components.

*Fuse Box
http://i.imgur.com/NiXIPLv.jpg

-Ive been using a service manua for a AA-774 electric range that has almost identical components and wiring except for two small pilot lights that are attached to each of the CC-774 's ranges oven switches, unfortunately the picture taken of the back of the ovens wiring diagram is inelligable. The wiring diagram has decayed and is not longer on the back of the range.
*Bad Image of back of stove from service manual
http://imgur.com/zkfC5Jt

*Back of range
http://i.imgur.com/7qYzKfD.jpg

-This stove has 2 ovens but I really only need to have one functioning
*Service Manuel inside the oven
http://i.imgur.com/zkfC5Jt.jpg

-Ive replaced the old surface burner switches and burners with infinite switches and new 2 wire (black & red) burners. The 2 ovens were working before i changed out the infinite switches, this is because the black, red, and white neutral wire were attached to the stove switches and the oven switches were drawing power from them

*Infinite Switch i replaced the 8 inch surface burners
http://i.imgur.com/6Ifo5WF.jpg

*Universal Infinite Switch I replaced the 6 inch surface burners with and wire instructions
http://i.imgur.com/9paJTUi.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ng00Izj.jpg

*Diagram showing how to connect neutral wire for different pilot lights on stove switches
http://i.imgur.com/O3ImWjb.jpg

-Is it possible to use the old oven switches with the newer stove burner elements?
*Old Stove Switch
http://i.imgur.com/8ohAjmp.jpg

Service Manuals wiring diagrams for the Stove & Switches
http://i.imgur.com/iuIQAbN.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/kYbagd1.jpg

-Pictures of my oven timer and the service manual timer
http://i.imgur.com/SJQCXY7.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/BF4R5TD.jpg

-Picture of flourscent surface tube light receptacle and its corresponding switch
http://i.imgur.com/l947Snn.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/XmieLbQ.jpg

-2 prong outlet that is in between my stove switches
http://i.imgur.com/VksKWfE.jpg

-Oven door light switch (i currently have the load and lead twisted together because i dont need the oven light functioning)
http://i.imgur.com/afY3Z5K.jpg

I currently have it wired minus the neutral wires. I made a wiring harness for the red wires powering the light components running from the 15AMP fuse and black the wires running from the 20AMP fuse with pigtail connections to the components, and followed the other wiring from the wire diagrams I have linked. I hope you guys are able to help I refuse to give up on this thing

*AA-774 Oven Wiring Diagrams for Oven to bake elements circuit (cant find where to put neutral at on the oven switches)
http://imgur.com/r9qmeDa

*Inside of Oven
http://imgur.com/Xyu9MW5

*AA-774 Stove Switch Wiring
http://imgur.com/kYbagd1

*AA-774 Wiring Diagram for Original Stove Switches to surface burner
http://imgur.com/SdPy7ES

*AA-774 Component Descriptions
http://imgur.com/gP9RCOY
 

rickgburton

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I'm having a hard time following all that. Boil it down for me please, what exactly do you want to do? Think of that range as two separate machines one being the surface elements and surface switches. The other being the ovens and thermostat switches. Tell me what part of the range you're working on and what exactly do you want to do?
 

Andres619

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haha sorry last time i was lacking info >,< so i made sure to give as much as possible...im currently trying to get the oven working..all components are functioning just having trouble figuring out where the neutral wire goes now that it isnt pulling its voltage from the stove and is operating separate from it.
 

rickgburton

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Sorry, I'm still not following you. If everything is working why are you trying to connect a neutral wire?? Where was it connected before??
 

Andres619

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Originally the stove wasnt working properly so I replaced the stove switches with new infinite switch...now the stove works but now the doesnt anymore. The oven switches were drawing power from the stove switches using jumper wires. What i am stuck on is re-wiring the old oven switches so they operate as a stand alone component from the rest of the range.

-Here is the oven switch
http://i.imgur.com/twmFuuD.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/EMiDwPl.jpg

-Wiring Diagram for the oven switch
http://i.imgur.com/S12V7Ti.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/r9qmeDa.jpg

Back of the oven Bake Element Components
http://i.imgur.com/tMEVSPe.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/q2tkuDf.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/j0nqw0h.jpg

Inside of Oven
http://i.imgur.com/Xyu9MW5.jpg

hope this helps with the confusion let me know if you need any more info and i appreciate the help :)
 

rickgburton

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OK, so you're saying the oven thermostat got 220 VAC from the wires on the surface unit switches. So L1, L2, and Neutral for the oven comes from the surface unit switches. It doesn't matter where the voltage comes from, L1, L2, and N will connect in the same spot on the oven switch where it was connected originally.
 

Andres619

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Thanks Rick Ive got L1 and L2 figured out already but the wiring when i started did not have a direct Neutral wire connected to it, it had both leads connected to the timer that had a neutral wire connecting directly to one of the leads. Here is a video of how it looked like when i opened it. as well as the service manuals timer/Clock

https://vimeo.com/217579784

http://i.imgur.com/BF4R5TD.jpg
 

rickgburton

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The N wire going to the clock is for the clock motor. It might be used as a hub for other neutral wires but it's purpose ends at the clock. I don't understand what you're doing with the clock. Are you trying to bypass the clock? The clock usually breaks L2. At this point the oven doesn't need a neutral side except for the indicator lights. That's a three wire range so the N is connected to earth ground. Your pictures and video's are ok but their too close. I only see there's wires connected. I can see the L1 L2 and N wires but I don't see where they go. Do you have a loose neutral wire that needs to be connected somewhere or are you just trying to determine where to connect a neutral wire?
 

Andres619

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I was trying to bypass it but if i cant then i cant. Thank you rick im mainly trying to figure out where the neutral wire goes
 

rickgburton

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You can bypass the clock but you'll lose the time bake function and self clean function if you have them. Does your range use a selector switch (bake, broil, time bake) and a thermostat or just the thermostat? I would be more than happy to tell you where the neutral wire goes. I just need to know what neutral wire you're referring to ?? What's it connected to??
 

rickgburton

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I watched your video and what I can tell you is it looks like the neutral supply line comes up and connects to the second switch over on the P terminal. This is the neutral side of the indicator light. It jumpers to all the switches plus the clock motor and the fluorescent light. What I can't tell is where the neutral wire on the first switch is going.

See if this helps. This is the wiring for a typical 2 wire element and switch.
WIRE DIAGRAM SURFACE UNITS.jpg
 
Last edited:

Andres619

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okay so i just cleaned up the timer clock..im pretty sure it works but as far as the oven switch options it has bake and broil options. Also what is the difference from a jumper wire and a pigtailed wire?
 

rickgburton

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Is Bake and Broil and the thermostat all one switch?? Same for the other oven?? A pigtail is a power cord. It connects to the range and hangs there like a pigtail. A jumper is just that, it creates a circuit between point A and point B.
 

Andres619

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Yah the bake broil and thermostat are on the same switch for both ovens. I appreciate the help so far rick! I think your close :)
 

rickgburton

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...the bake broil and thermostat are on the same switch for both ovens.
If you have two ovens you must have two thermostats. Both ovens can't operate off the same t-stat. Take a picture of the front of the range so I can see the control panel. Take a picture of the back of the thermostat but not so close. I'd like to see where some of the wires are going, then post them here. On the bottom right of this window click on "Go Advanced" then click on the picture frame icon and navigate to your pictures.
 

rickgburton

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OK, lets try this again. The Oven Thermostat is the control with the temperatures on it, 200*F, 300*F, 400*F, etc,etc. Continuing past 450*F usually turns on Broil feature. Part of the oven thermostat is the capillary which goes into the oven cavity and senses the temperature, controlling the thermostat. If that thermostat wiring diagram is for your range, it has a thermostat like that. There is no neutral connection. It's a simple two wire thermostat. You have L1 and L2 going into the thermostat. When you turn the thermostat to 300 you're on Bake. The L1 contacts close to one side of the bake element and the L2 contacts close to the other side of the element. When you turn the knob to Broil the L1 contact opens one side of the bake element and closes the contact to one side of the broil element, L2 contacts opens the one side of the bake element and closes the contacts to the other side of the broil element:
T-stat.jpg
 

rickgburton

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The top element is the broil element. The bottom element is the bake element. The copper tube the enters the oven at the top right is the capillary bulb that is attached to the thermostat. Does that help?
 

Andres619

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Yah the thermostat connects directly into the center of the oven switch. Ill try to wire everything up in the next couple days and test it out. Ill draw a diagram how I have it wired before i start it up. Thanks again Rick I really appreciate your time :)
 
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