I doubt anyone would sell an exact replacement. There might be a slim chance of finding a used one or getting some sort of universal replacement control. If you find the thermostat, get all the numbers printed on it as it is unlikely to be traceable by model number.
That's not the wiring diagram for that model. Isn't there one on the back of the fridge? If not, you can measure the restistance between the pins on the compressor to determine which is which.
The highest resistance will be between the Run and Start winding pins. The other pin will be the Common. Tag it. Between the Common and Start winding pin will have the next highest resistance. Between the Common and Run terminal will measure the least resistance. Tag each of them.
Once you've determined those, follow the wiring diagram on the package for which colour wire goes to which terminal.
The top terminal with the overload attached is quite possibly the Common terminal. That can be verified with the reststance measurements.
Okay thanks , I will double check the terminal resistance.
No wiring diagram on the back of the refrigerator.
Could the wiring diagram I sent you be for a a Philco V-handle?
When I connect the 3 wires from the Supco Relay to the compressor and the other two go to power , where will the other 3 wires from the refrigerator be connected? Do any of them connect to the compressor?
The problem with the refrigerator getting too cold is going to be as Dan said, a thermostat problem. On your Philco the thermostat is not intended to be adjusted by the user (you). Does your refrigerator have a removable back panel? If so the thermostat or plate thermal regulator as your wiring diagram calls it may be located behind the panel. The feeler tube will be clamped to the cold plate that's on the back wall of the lower compartment. It will look like a small metal tube. When you find the feeler tube see where it goes. That will lead you to the approximate location of the thermostat. Unclamp the feeler tube and once you locate the thermostat unplug the two wires from it and remove the thermostat. Be careful with the feeler tube. You don't want to kink or break it! Can you remove the cover and get to the inside of the thermostat? If you can you may be able to clean the contacts inside with an automotive ignition points file. Once you've done that put the cover back on and put the thermostat assembly in another freezer for about a half hour to test it. When you remove the thermostat from the freezer listen to it. You should hear a definite click after a minute or two. Repeat this process a few times. This will mimic the thermostat getting cold and shutting off the compressor then warming up and turning on the compressor. If you can get the thermostat working again put it back in the refrigerator and the problem with the temperature should be solved. If you can't fix the thermostat you'll need to replace it with one designed for a cycle defrost type of refrigerator. The cold plate in your Philco is designed to defrost each time the compressor is off. In order for that to happen the compressor must stay off until the cold plate is about 35°F to 40°F. The correct name for this type of thermostat is a constant cut in thermostat. Meaning that the compressor will always come on at the same temperature no matter what.