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1983 White-Westinghouse Countertop Rewiring

Toyota4Runner

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2013
Messages
10
Location
Canada
Model Number
WP821J
Brand
White-Westinghouse
Age
More than 10 years
Hello everyone,


Looking for some assistance. I have a 1983 White-Westinghouse countertop stove that I had to rewire. Unfortunately I didn't do a very good job at recording the original layout of the wiring and am now stuck. I attempted to locate the schematics by contacting Electrolux, but have been advised Electrolux doesn't have any information that dates back that far. If some one could assist me with explaining what wires get connected where it would be greatly appreciated, or even have the documentation for this countertop would be a bonus. Here is all the information I have.


240V power supply
Switches are Robertshaw Infinite Switches (p/n: 6500-208) 5 leads L1, L2, P, H1, H2
I have 4 elements 2 pilot lights and 4 switches.
Continuity is between L1&P when switch is on


The main power from the circuit breaker goes into a small fuse breaker box under the countertop , out of the breaker box there are 5 wires leading to the countertop, 1Ground, 2 black (Front Right & Rear Right), 2Red (Font Left & Rear Left).


I know the H1,H2 goes to each element. The problem I am having is I am unsure what get's connected to the rest of the terminals (L1,L2,P,Pilot Lights).


This is what I believed it was but am not 100% sure and don't really want to find out it's wrong the hard way.

LF=Left Front Burner, RF=Right Front Burner


L1(RF)------>L1(LF)----->Black Wire(240V)


L2(RF)---->Pilot Light---->L2(LF)---->Red Wire


P(RF)--->Pilot Light---->P(LF)


I would assume if this is right then it would be the same for the Rear elements too.
the 5th wire is ground and is screwed into the bottom and top of the countertop


Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
Last edited:

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
40,694
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
OK, L1 is the black wire from the power supply and L2 is the red wire from the power supply. You need to check if the indicator lights are 120 VAC or 220 VAC. Normally they're 120 VAC but that old they could be 220 VAC so connect them as if they were 120 VAC and if they aren't very bright you'll know they are 220. One side of each indicator light is connected to the Neutral wire from the power supply (white wire) and the other side is connected to P on each switch. Connect all four switches exactly the same way.

I'll make you a diagram if you need one.
 

Toyota4Runner

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2013
Messages
10
Location
Canada
Hi Rick,

Thank you so much for your help on this. Really appreciate it. The pilot lights are 250V or that's what they have printed on the side of them. I don't have a neutral wire. Just the Red and Black, what would the other side of the pilot indicator light have connected to it? As I'm a visual person a diagram would definitely be an asset to me. Not sure if this might help out but it's what came with the infinite switch. RobertshawInfiniteSwitch.png
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
40,694
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
OK this is very easy. In post number 1 you mentioned you had continuity between L1 and P when the switch was turned on. Double check by turning all the switches on and make sure it's the same for all the switches. L2 (red wire) will be connected to one side of each indicator light and the other side of the indicator lights will be P from each switch. This is what one side (two switches) should look like or very close to it:
Infinate Switch Diagram.jpgInfinate Switch.jpg
 

Toyota4Runner

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2013
Messages
10
Location
Canada
Hi Rick,

Yes Continuity between P & L1 on all the switches. I took a look at your diagram and did some modifications for the way the stove is setup. The Main power source from the basement is fed into a smaller breaker box with fuses below the counter stove with the wires coming out of it (see picture). The Red wire from the main power source is fed to the Left (Front & Rear ) and the Black wire is fed to the right (Front & Rear) fuses. I also have only 1 indicator light for the Front elements and 1 light for the rear. The attached diagram is just for the rear 2 elements as I'll do a carbon copy once I know I have it right for the rear.

Shematics.jpgDSCN2062.jpg
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Joined
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Messages
40,694
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Your diagram is correct. Connect the other two exactly the same way and you're good to go.
 

Toyota4Runner

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2013
Messages
10
Location
Canada
Your diagram is correct. Connect the other two exactly the same way and you're good to go.


Rick,

Just wanted to let you know that it's all hooked up and working like new. Hopefully will get another 30 years out of this now. One quick question, I noticed that when the elements are off that there is a very faint light emitting from the indicator lights. Is that normal? Also would like to say thank you very much for your help. I really do appreciate the time you took working with me on this.

George
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
40,694
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
George, there shouldn't be any light when the elements are off. It sounds like it might be getting 110 VAC. Check it with a volt meter. The solid copper wire that's a ground wire is also the neutral wire. One side of the indicator lights is always hot (L2). It sounds like there is a grounding issue on the other side. Remove the wire on the P terminal on each switch one at a time and see if the indicator lights go out.
 
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