February 15th, 2011, 04:57 PM
Adjusting Air Shutter for Oven gas valve on Hot Start Ignition Oven
More than 10 years
The question I have is, do you adjust the oven gas valve based on the same principles as the range burner valves?
IE: "If the flame is yellow, it's not receiving enough air. To allow more air in, open the plate slightly. If the flame is high or makes a roaring noise, it's getting too much air and you should close the plate slightly. - From howstuffworks.com"
Now, how does this apply when looking at the very "spread apart" flame coming from the oven's long flash tube/burner?
Recently I have readjusted the gas/air shutters for the range gas valves so that they come on as fast as possible, while still (mostly) showing blue flame tips (a yellow one pops up every few seconds or so, but 95% of the time the flames are blue).
I got to thinking about it and the faster the flame ignites on the range burners, then that means the less natural gas that is dispersed into the air of the kitchen/house.
So, onto the hot start ignition flame (using a hot start flat bar ignitor) for the oven itself. It too has an air shutter on it like the range valves do. When I went to work on this oven a few weeks ago I noticed (before I knew what the air shutters were) that the air shutter for the oven gas valve is open all the way.
We are smelling a natural gas smell in various parts of the house after using the oven and as everything else is connected very well and has been recently thoroughly cleaned up, I can only surmise that this "extra gas" is being released from the air shutter in the oven's gas valve. Sound reasonable?
FYI - I have purchased a gas leak detector and used it last night while everything was OFF on the oven/range and it detected no leaks everywhere I put it. I ran it over the gas line connection points slowly too. Took my time.
Would a picture of the spread flame help?
February 15th, 2011, 07:39 PM
when you turn on the oven the igniter (aka hot surface igniter, glow bar ) should come on (yellowish glow). About a minute later the gas should enter the burner and ignite. How long is it taking for the burner to ignite? As the igniters age it takes longer and longer (2 -5 minutes) until eventually the burner NEVER ignites. However, even though the burner is not igniting the low amperage draw from the igniter causes a PARTIAL opening of the safety valve allowing gas to enter the oven burner. This gas is not sufficient enough to ignite the burner but sufficient enough for a noticeable gas odor to emanate from the oven cavity. So if the igniter glows but the burner takes more than 1-2 minutes to ignite I would change the igniter.
February 15th, 2011, 10:01 PM
I'm not exactly sure how long it takes to light the flame, but it is pretty fast because the ignitor and gas valve are brand new, as is the thermostat.
Basically i just wanna know how to adjust the air shutter for the oven's gas valve and if its the same rule of thumb as the range burners are. I suppose I should adjust the oven gas valve to where the flame ignites the fastest? thx for fast reply.
February 15th, 2011, 11:08 PM
you replaced this valve?
Gas Burner or Control Component (part #625319) from RepairClinic.com
If so did you adjust the orifice on the valve?
Since you are attempting to adjust every burner in this oven the question beckons ,
are you running a natural gas oven on LP or vice versa?
February 21st, 2011, 01:53 AM
Yes, I replaced that valve, but didn't even pay half that for it.
I guess the orifice is where the gas output end is on that valve? If so, no I didn't adjust it. Above/surrounding the output end of this valve is the beginning of the tube (air shutter) that flows the gas to be burned for the oven and the air shutter is wide open all the way, and that is how I found it. I don't know for sure if this was how the factory set it as there has been at least 1 other person work on this range before me a few years back. I suspect the air shutter being wide open for the oven portion only is too much air mixture for the gas.
This is all natural gas, not propane (assuming thats what LP meant). I readjusted all of the range burners because I'd cleaned and disassembled them all and I wanted them to click on faster to not have as much gas leakage in the house when in use.
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