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Thread: Ice Dispenser flapper door - broken plastic hinge

  1. #1
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    Default Ice Dispenser flapper door - broken plastic hinge

    Model Number: KSRP25F
    Brand: KitchenAid
    Age: 6-10 years

    The flapper door on the ice dispenser is not aligned as the right plastic mount for the shaft that the flapper door is supported has broken off. Is there a repair for this? http://www.applianceblog.com/mainfor...lies/frown.gif
    Last edited by Texas_Ray; June 22nd, 2011 at 09:05 PM.

  2. #2
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  3. #3
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    Hi Rick
    The flapper is actually OK, it is the plastic bracket that appears to be molded into the door assembly for the ice dispenser unit. I have attached a link that identifies the broken bracket. As you see the image on the link, it is the circled area. http://www.fixya.com/uploads/Images/AE8679C.jpg

    Any ideas?

  4. #4
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    I think you're going to need both parts. You need the white plastic part in the top picture (it doesn't come separate) and possibly the the lever if tab on the right side is broken. It's hard to see in that picture but the top right corner of the lever is in the middle of a square, go 1 square down it's on the inside of the lever and 1 more square down there's one on the outside. Check both of those.
    OWNER RICK'S APPLIANCE REPAIR
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  5. #5
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    The Whirlpool Ice Door Kit 8201756 kit works. It may not look like it, but the big metal bracket fits neatly into the top of the cavity, and works to hold a new door flapper (provided).

    It attaches using a bunch of heavy-duty double-stick tape mounted on the top and on the back, and by attaching a small support bracket to an existing screw.

    The only hard part is removing the front plate (#21). It's held onto the dispenser body (#1) by four tabs on the panel itself, two at the very top and two at the very bottom. Push the bottom edge of the panel down and then pull it out FIRST so you don't break the top tabs. It takes a bit of force. Don't use a screwdriver to pry, or you'll damage the plastic.

    Once the bottom is loose slide the plate up and off, then disconnect the six-pin molex connector. Unsnap the interior plastic bracket (#15) and pivot it up and out of the way. Use a piece of duct tape to hold it to the door.

    Remove the old flap assembly. You'll then have to remove what's left of the the two plastic "hook" tabs. This can be done simply breaking them off with a pair of pliers, or, as I did, using a Dremel cutting blade to slice them off.

    Keep the solid tab without the holes in it. You'll still need it to "stop" the new pin from sliding out.

    Practice getting the new metal bracket in place a few times before you peel and expose the adhesive tape. Be careful with it. It's very sticky, and will setup quickly.

    Attach the support bracket using the big screw on the front of the water dispenser. Attach the new ground wire by unscrewing the existing green wire from the door and reattaching it. When done you'll have two wires there.

    You may find that the delay mechanism (#8, the black piston thingy) still manages to pull the flap pin up and out of its new metal slot. I removed my display mechanism completely, and have no problems. In fact, I prefer the door to close immediately.

    Hope this helps.

  6. #6
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    Cool!! Glad to hear you got it fixed! Good job!
    OWNER RICK'S APPLIANCE REPAIR
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