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FIXED 417.39012890 Need help with wiring

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ridesapaint

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Aug 29, 2016
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Location
new mexico
Model Number
417.39012890
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
6-10 years
Frigidaire Gallery model number 417.39012890 door lock broke. I replaced it with the new lock 131763202. I did not get a wire harness with it but did get the latch. I need help determining which old wires can be connected to the new switch, and which spade do they connect to? Its only a matter of crimping two new female spades on, replacing the only plug. and of course making them insulated.

Can I do this? Are there enough wires from the old switch to make the new switch operate? What spades on the new switch are used? I can't afford a tech, the washer is under the dryer. I am a bit fragile with age and help is hard to come by.
 

Jake

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Why do you need a wire harness with the door latch/lock switch assembly?

Its plug and play, or did something happen to your original wire harness?

Oh wait, some of these older models required a wire harness adaptor that would need with the new door latch/lock switch assembly, I assume this model is one of them? The original wiring to your door latch/lock switch assembly won't connect up to that new door latch/lock switch assembly?

Door lock and switch assembly * Part has been updated. A wire harness adapter kit and striker will need to be purchased for this item to work.

So you will need to order this one:
137523400 Door Switch/lock Kit


Jake
 

ridesapaint

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Location
new mexico
Yep, a real pain in the assembly. Im trying to find images and zoom for color clues. I just don't want to fry something by guessing. Is there an image of a newer wire diagram? The one on the repair clinic part is unreadable.
 

ridesapaint

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new mexico
2012-11-24_224707_frigidaire-door-lock-assembly-131763202-ap4455026_03_l.jpg

My new switch is much thinner, but otherwise the same. I searched and searched and searched. I'm going to try this and will post my findings.
 

Jake

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I'd just order the door latch/lock switch assembly I posted the link to above, it comes with the harness you need.

I'd be very careful trying to rig it like your doing, you could fry it out completely.

Jake
 

ridesapaint

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FIXED
The color code on the image below, it is correct for my old washing machine wire connections to the new lock switch. I used insulated spade connectors where possible and the door lock assembly works perfectly. all the connectors were slightly crimped to prevent vibration loosening them, and plenty of wire ties too. on the red and white wires I made 2" extensions with male/female spades because the wires are too short, and the only plug on the original harness. The install is nothing like the simple plug and play videos on youtube for newer machines.
otherwise the parts replacement was simple, not easy.

2012-11-24_224707_frigidaire-door-lock-assembly-131763202-ap4455026_03_l.jpg

I saved more than $100 not buying the new harness--I recommend anyone in this situation to use the new harness and switch kit unless you are competent with electrical repair, have skinny arms, and have patience. I found it worth the extra time and hunting for solutions.
 

Jake

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Wonderful! Good job, that will help others with this older style door latch/lock assembly.

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 

Parnelltk

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Location
Sunnyvale, CA
FIXED
The color code on the image below, it is correct for my old washing machine wire connections to the new lock switch. I used insulated spade connectors where possible and the door lock assembly works perfectly. all the connectors were slightly crimped to prevent vibration loosening them, and plenty of wire ties too. on the red and white wires I made 2" extensions with male/female spades because the wires are too short, and the only plug on the original harness. The install is nothing like the simple plug and play videos on youtube for newer machines.
otherwise the parts replacement was simple, not easy.

View attachment 29998

I saved more than $100 not buying the new harness--I recommend anyone in this situation to use the new harness and switch kit unless you are competent with electrical repair, have skinny arms, and have patience. I found it worth the extra time and hunting for solutions.

I am also replacing the older door lock that has 6 wire connections. Do you really leave 2 connections on the new switch totally open with nothing connected? I tried to do the same as you show, although some of my wire colors are different. The door lock light comes on, but there is no fill and no other action of any kind.

Is there any info available on what the wiring layout for the Adapter?

Thanks for the help!
 

Jake

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Do you have the exact same model: 417.39012890?

The model number tag is located inside the door.

Jake
 

Parnelltk

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Sunnyvale, CA
My Model: Frigidaire Model 417.39022890 Front-Load Washer 1998

My Model #differs in one digit:
Frigidaire Model 417.39022890 Front-Load Washer 1998
1998 model year
 

Parnelltk

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Location
Sunnyvale, CA
Your part number 131763256 still has 8 connections and I have 6 wires.
How would it be connected?
The earlier photo posted showed 2 terminals left open with nothing connected.
This part looks identical to the part I am trying to use: 131763202
 

Jake

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Ok,

We will have to wait to see if ridesapaint responds back to you, to see if he can tell you.

Other than that you'd need that kit too for yours.

Does your washer drain and spin fine? Or it won't do nothing but light the door lock ON indicator?

Its a little less expensive here:
137523400 Door Switch/lock Kit


Jake
 

Parnelltk

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Messages
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Location
Sunnyvale, CA
Currently it only lights the door lock indicator, no washer water fill or any other action.
ridesapaint situation seems to be the same as mine.
I am just trying to understand the function of the 8 connection ports on the new door lock 131763202
and how to map my old lock with 6 connections to this new one with 8 connections.
 

Jake

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ridesapaint situation seems to be the same as mine.
I am just trying to understand the function of the 8 connection ports on the new door lock 131763202
and how to map my old lock with 6 connections to this new one with 8 connections.
Yes, I know, I've never done it the way he did it or I could tell you exactly what to do.

If he doesn't respond back then I don't know what else to suggest but getting that kit. Or buying a new washing machine. Which I would suggest, given its age its not worth throwing $200 at it, then 3 months later another part goes bad, like the motor board, then that's another $300 on top of the $200.

Jake
 

Parnelltk

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Do you know what the function and wiring is for the 4 center terminals?
I have the schematics, but cannot tell anything useful from them.
 

ridesapaint

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Location
new mexico
I am also replacing the older door lock that has 6 wire connections. Do you really leave 2 connections on the new switch totally open with nothing connected? I tried to do the same as you show, although some of my wire colors are different. The door lock light comes on, but there is no fill and no other action of any kind.

Is there any info available on what the wiring layout for the Adapter?

Thanks for the help!

If you have the switch I have pictured, and connect your wires to the colors identified, you should have it correct. That was my biggest concern, that the wires were wrong for the switch, and the colors were mixed. You might have to make individual little custom pigtail extended wires. And I do remeber that getting my arms way in there to plug stuff in was difficult. It’s been 20 months since I worked on it. I dont remember the details, but leaving a spade on the switch open is fine if the wired terminals are insulated. Its your call.
 

ridesapaint

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Aug 29, 2016
Messages
6
Location
new mexico
I also remember this mess taking several days to figure out the wiring and having way too much time taken. I was on a shoestring budget so it worked out good for me.
 

Parnelltk

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Messages
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Location
Sunnyvale, CA
Thanks for the reply! Much appreciated.
Mainly my question was if the new lock with 8 terminal will work with just the 6 wires from the old lock.
You seem to be indicating that it will work. I did make pigtail extensions for the 2 in the center because they were in a single connector that has interference if I try to plug it into the center 4 terminals on the new lock.
Anything else that you remember or checks that I might try to make sure I have it right?
I know the 2 bottom connections to the wax motor lock the door.
Do you know the function of the other terminals?
I am only getting the door lock light on and no fill or any other action so I know something is not making contract or in the wrong location.
 

Parnelltk

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Messages
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Location
Sunnyvale, CA
My final update:
With the new Door Lock 131763256 Door Lock Assembly, I was not successful in modifying the original wiring connection as suggested above (connecting 2 wires to the center set of 4 terminals on the new lock). I finally sucked it up and purchased the Wiring Harness Adapter 131882400 . Still not out of the woods. No connection instructions and it took some real effort to figure out how to match things up. I finally cracked the code: Untape and stretch out all of the wires. The large connector goes directly on the control board in the right rear; the plug off of the control board goes on the corresponding male connector on the harness.

There is a green 2 wire female connector that goes to the front right on the small drain pump; the same color green plug that is removed from that pump goes to a 2-wire male plug on the harness. The remaining sets of wires on the harness go to the new door lock: 4-wire female plug to the center 4 port connection; 2-wire female to the wax motor; other 2-wire female to the top 2-port male connections on the lock. Look for matching of wire colors. The wires unplugged from the old door lock have mates on the wiring harness adapter. 2-single wires match color to single wire male plugs, etc. Finally: it works!!
 
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