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Thread: WFW9150WW00 Whirlpool duet F6 E1 error

  1. #1
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    Default WFW9150WW00 Whirlpool duet F6 E1 error

    Model Number: WFW9150WW00
    Brand: Whirlpool
    Age: 1-5 years

    Hi,

    My Whirlpool Duet has the F6 E1 error. The MCU has no burned appearing areas. The motor pin resistance appears normal (pins 1-2, 1-3, 2-3 all about 6 ohms, pins 4-5 about 115).

    The lower plate panel switch, if disconnected, shows infinity if depressed and about an ohm if not depressed. If the switch is connected, however, it never shows infinity (depressed or not), it always shows just 1 or 2 ohms. I don't know if that is expected or if that indicates a short somewhere.

    Because of the location of the washer, it is cumbersome and difficult to remove the dryer on top of the washer to access the CCU, so that has not been checked.

    I also replaced a broken damper strut.

    I am not sure how to proceed and am looking for advice.

    Thanks,

    Tim

  2. #2
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    Hi Tim,

    Do you have your tech. data sheet in front of you? If not, I'm attaching it below.

    F6E1=SERIAL COMMUNICATION ERROR: The communication between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the Motor Control Unit (MCU) cannot be sent correctly.

    Possible Causes/Procedure
    - Unplug washer or disconnect power.
    - Check that the power cord terminals are connected at the right position to the RFI filter (white-Neutral/ black-Line).
    - Check that the two ground switches are pressed correctly by the toe and rear panels.
    - Check that ground switches are fitted correctly, and are not broken and the green ground wires are connected correctly.
    - Make sure that both ground switches are not broken or scratched.
    - Make sure that all the ground harnesses (green wires) are connected correctly, and are not broken or with wires detached.
    - Make sure that all wire harness connections from the CCU (MI3 cavity), main Motor, and MCU are not broken or with wires detached, and that connector internal pins are visible.
    - Check for continuity from the MCU connector wires to CCU (MI3 cavity) connector.
    - If the continuity diagnosis failed, the Main Harness must be replaced.
    - Make sure that all the connectors are fully seated.
    - Check the drive system for any worn or failed components.
    - Plug in washer or reconnect power.
    - Verify the washer operation by running the Diagnostic Test cycle. See page 5.
    - After the diagnostic test has finished, unplug washer or disconnect power and wait for 15 seconds.


    Here's that ground switch:
    Micro Switch W10085220 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com


    That needs to be closed for the machine to properly work. When that switch is closed you should have continuity to complete the circuit. So when you ohm test it with the wires removed from that switch AND YOUR WASHER UNPLUGGED FROM THE WALL OUTLET, it will show no continuity(Your meter won't change numbers) When you push the button on that switch you should have continuity(Your meter will show 0 ohms) Put your meter setting on the lowest ohms of resistance when ohm testing it.

    You can actually by-pass that switch as well just for testing: Remove the two wires from that switch and connect them together, (don't cut the wire terminal ends off), then use electrical tape to tape them to keep them from touching any metal surfaces.

    Unplug your washer first before doing that.

    Jake
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  3. #3
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    Hi Jake,

    Thanks for your response and the information.

    My ground switches do not behave as you describe nor do they look anything like the picture you attach (I hadn't realized there was also a ground switch at the back). When disconnected from the machine, they show continuity when the button is not depressed and lose continuity when depressed. (I am testing with a multimeter at 200 ohms, the lowest setting. When the leads are just open to the air and not touching, it shows infinity. When they touch, i.e. continuity, it shows close to zero).

    On top of that fact, the front ground switch behaves differently from the back when they are reattached to the machine (still unplugged at the wall). When reattached, the back ground switch still behaves just as if it were not connected; that is, it shows continuity when the button is not depressed and shows loss of continuity when the button is depressed. The front ground switch, however, behaves as I described in my first post when it is wired to the machine. That is, it shows continuity whether the button is depressed or not.

    So I don't know if that suggests a problem or if that is normal.

    Tim

  4. #4
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    That's a good question Tim, The wiring diagram for the grounding switches is a little confusing. Your model does not have the heater, its shows S1 is the front ground switch, S2 is the rear ground switch and both show open in the wiring diagram but the wiring diagram fails to show if both should be normally open or both should be normally closed.

    I will need to ask Jeff and Rick about this, to see what they think.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
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  5. #5
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    Thanks for trying to track that issue with the ground switch down.

    I did get the top off the washer to try and identify problems with the CCU. In the list of possible causes it mentions to check the continuity of the MCU connector wires to the CCU connector. This is about the only thing I haven't done; to do this should I remove the whole harness by disconnecting at each end and cut the zip tie connectors at various locations inside the machine? This is what I did to check the harness from the MCU to the motor, but I want to make sure this is the correct way to do it before attempting it since there are a number small wires to carefully remove and label.

    I think I have checked everything else out on the list so there is just this question (above) about whether I should remove the whole harness to check it (or is there some other way) and also the previous question that you are already following up on (about the issue with the ground switches).

    Thanks again, I do appreciate your help.

    Tim

  6. #6
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    Ok Tim, Rick said: The panels hold the switches closed, so both ground switches should be closed(Continuity) for the machine to work.

    No, you don't have to remove the whole wire harness from your machine, just the 2 connector ends to the CCU and MCU to make sure the electrical connector pins are not loose or burnt.

    It sounds like the problem is what you said here: The front ground switch, however, behaves as I described in my first post when it is wired to the machine. That is, it shows continuity whether the button is depressed or not.

    So the only test to verify this is what I mentioned above: You can actually by-pass that switch as well just for testing: Remove the two wires from that switch and connect them together, (don't cut the wire terminal ends off), then use electrical tape to tape them to keep them from touching any metal surfaces.

    Unplug your washer first before doing that.


    Then once they both are bypassed then plug the machine in see if your machine will start working.

    If it still doesn't work, then I'm stumped, you'll need to get a Whirlpool tech. to come out and see whats going on.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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  7. #7
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    Hi Jake,

    Thanks again. I did try bypassing the ground switches by connecting the leads and I checked the main wires from the MCU to the CCU. No problem found and still showing F6E1.

    Before calling an appliance expert, I would like to try replacing the MCU. Do I understand correctly that if I order through your vendors I can return the MCU if it does not fix the problem?

    Tim

  8. #8
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    Yes Tim, that's correct.

    If you order parts from AppliancePartsPros or RepairClinic, you have 365 days to return the part/parts for a full refund, less shipping, for any reason, even if you install the part/parts and it doesn't fix the problem.

    Here's the MCU for your model:
    Whirlpool WPW10384843 Electronic Control Board


    Let us know if that fixes it.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  9. #9
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    Hi Jake,

    I tried the new MCU and it did not fix the problem.

    I am starting again at square one with another person and double checking everything. As I mentioned before, both ground switches are open (no continuity) when depressed (contrary to what is anticipated). Both switches are behaving the same (before the front switch did not show loss of continuity when the switch was wired into the machine, but it does now - it is unclear why this is so).

    Is it possible the CCU itself is the problem? I have not yet returned the new MCU (I am keeping it in its box as I try to solve this before returning it and leaving the old MCU in place for now).

    Thanks,

    Tim

  10. #10
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    Hi Jake,

    OK, we figured out why the front switch when attached to the machine continued to show continuity when depressed; it was because the back switch was not depressed (which completed the circuit at the back switch) and the front switch is connected to the back switch. So both appear to be working fine.

    Tim

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