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Thread: RS267L Samsung water in bottom of refrigerator - Part 2

  1. #1
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    Exclamation RS267L Samsung water in bottom of refrigerator - Part 2

    Model Number: RS267L
    Brand: Samsung
    Age: 6-10 years

    Since the original thread is locked, I am starting a new post to document my attempts to fix the common leaking water problem with the Samsung refrigerators. Thanks to all the original posters for their advice and helpful pictures. All credit goes to them for helping fellow owners diagnose and fix the leakage issue.

    My model is 8+ years old and I have been happy until a few months ago when the water began leaking. Found this forum and found out this was an inherent design problem with Samsung. Confirmed I had the same issue with the drainage hole icing up which caused water to pool under my vegetable drawer.

    An A&E service call was no help and the repairman told me to buy a new fridge. Rather than kicking $1600 to the curb, I tried various mods to keep the drain line unfrozen. The methods that follow may help other owners. Unfortunately, my fridge does not appear fixable and I am researching a replacement. If anyone has advice on which brand and model to get, please let me know! I actually like the Samsung brand and hope the drain issue is fixed in newest models.

    NOTE: My model is an old design that does not have a defrosting loop. Therefore I cannot use the Samsung clip that extends down into the drain hole as there is nothing to clip it to.
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  2. #2
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    Default Diagnosis

    If water is leaking from the the locations marked in red, ice is blocking the drainage hole behind the rear panel. This is what the ice block looks like once you get the back panel off. My model does not have a defrosting loop to keep the drain clear. There are 11 screws to unscrew to remove the back panel. Be careful not to break the styrofoam that insulates the cooling coil. I use a hair dryer to speed up the removal process and a turkey baster with hot water to remove the ice block and clear the drain hole. A towel prevents water from leaking onto the kitchen floor.

    The drain hole takes a 90 degree turn toward the freezer. This further complicates the freezing drain problem.

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  3. #3
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    Default Defrosting Fixes

    Since I don't have a defrosting loop, I first tried wrapping aluminum foil around the cooling coil and down into the drain hole. I cut up a heavy duty disposable tray and folded the foil several times to increase thickness. Since my drain hole makes a 90 degree turn, I bent the foil and inserted it about 3 inches into the drain. The top of the foil wrapped around the cooling coil. As you can see, the ice block reformed about a week later.

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    Since I have removed the back panel so much, the styrofoam was getting destroyed and not going to last much longer. With nothing to lose, I prepared to cut the back panel in two to make it easy to remove the top portion and allow me to defrost and remove the lower portion separately. I noticed wires running to the lower portion that appear to heat a anti-condensation element between the plastic and styrofoam.

    It dawned on me to use this heating element to keep the drain from icing up so I cut off the lower section of styrofoam to expose the heating element leaving the plastic panel intact. I stuck a copper wire down the drain as far it would go (curved to follow the bend) and pushed the free end of the wire through the cut section of styrofoam. After rubbing vegetable oil on the inner surfaces of the styrofoam insulation to ease future removal, I put the cutoff styrofoam into place and secured with masking tape. I flattened a section of spare copper water line and slid it over the wire and squeezed it tightly with pliers. The copper should get good heat transfer since it is sandwiched between the styrofoam and heating element. Align the back panel (with the upper styrofoam still attached) over the lower styrfoam section and push into place. Replace all screws and restore power. If the display does not reset properly, hold down both the Power Freeze and Power Cool buttons at the same time for about 8 seconds until display resets.

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    Last edited by brewmasterthis; April 17th, 2016 at 12:31 PM.

  4. #4
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    Default Final result

    As you can see, it didn't work. The ice block still formed right over the copper wire. My final attempt replaced the solid copper wire with a thicker braided gauge and increased the copper mass in contact with the heating element. I even snaked a line from underneath and pulled the copper wire as far as it would go to ensure I was deep enough. After a week, I'm still seeing water leaking. Don't know if related, but water also condenses on the underside of the lower vegetable cover. Does this mean I now have a different problem?

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    I really want to keep my Samsung but this is the end of the line. We had a good 8 year run.

    If you found this info useful, please give advice for a reliable 2016 fridge JD Powers and Consumer Reports recommend models and brand that appear to contradict reviews and complaints written by actual owners. When I bought my Samsung, it was the top rated brand and model according to JD Powers. But we all know it has this design flaw. Who to believe?

    PS, I had a bad experience with Amana prior to the Samsung and I swore I would never get another Amana/Whirlpool/Maytag product ever again.
    Last edited by brewmasterthis; April 17th, 2016 at 12:49 PM.

  5. #5
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    Default

    Excellent, good job!

    Thanks for the precise details, that will help others with this same problem on theirs!


    PS, I had a bad experience with Amana prior to the Samsung and I swore I would never get another Amana/Whirlpool/Maytag product ever again.
    Looks like your running out of brands. How about Frigidaire this time?

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  6. #6
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    Default Different leak problem now

    My water tank is leaking which I confirmed by shutting off the water supply and the bottom of the fridge stayed dry after a day. Hopefully my drain remains ice free and my leak problem is fixed.

    Funny thing is Samsung (along with GE, LG and Whirlpool) has several side by sides at the top of the latest Consumer Report review that polled 80000 owners. Frigidaire didn't do so well

  7. #7
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    Default

    We need the complete model number so you can order the proper water tank for your model.

    I show two for just your partial model number RS267L: RS267L Tank & Container Parts from RepairClinic.com

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  8. #8
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    Default Still dry on Day 2 after shutting off water supply

    Still dry after 2 days. I have a RS267LBBP which uses water tank DA97-02650D. I'm going to give it some time before ordering a replacement just to make sure the drain hole remains ice free. Thanks!

  9. #9
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    Default

    Ok, sounds good, yes keep your eye on it for awhile and keep us posted if you could please.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  10. #10
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    Default Update

    A couple of weeks later and the drain is still ice free and no water in the bottom of the fridge! Seems my solution works and hopefully it works in the long term.

    Ordered a replacement water tank from repairclinic.com and installed. Turned water back on and ran the water dispenser to check for leaks. Huge leak from the quick connect fitting under the front grill. I inspected the connection for debris and made sure the lines had clean square ends and were seated in fully (and pulled after inserting). However I noticed the water line on the new tank seems a few inches too short if I wrap it around the light cover like the old one did so I have to leave it off. No leak when doing nothing but when I dispense water, water jets out of the connector - that's how bad it is. With the line too short and possibly too narrow, did I get the wrong part or is there a problem with the dispenser?

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