592.891070 Kenmore Front Loading No heat

[Kajillin]

Model Number

592.891070

Brand

Sears Kenmore

Age

1-5 years

Hey Guys, I am new here and trying to get my dryer working. So i originally had took it apart and seen that the element had several breaks in it. I had replaced the element got it back together and it start to work, but barely. I reopened the thing and noticed i had grounded out the element on the housing unit.

I fixed the ground issue, put it back together, turned it on and now i am not getting any heat at all. I have tested every part of the thing with a multimeter, they all check out for continuity. I was trying to locate the thermal fuse on the unit, but as far as i can tell it does not have one.

I am hoping i can get some guidance here, and be able to have myself a clean pair of undies. There is a thermostat on the blower housing, and it sits beside a thermistor, i have tested them for continuity and they both beeped at me. I have read that this unit will give an error code if the thermistor is faulty. Am i doing something wrong, could there be another issue?

Thank you in advance for any help you can give me. I really need them undies.

 

[jeff1]

Hi,

Canadian models and esp dept store brands from Canada are not online so we cannot see what yours looks like.
Have any pictures?

I reopened the thing and noticed i had grounded out the element on the housing unit. I fixed the ground issue, put it back together, turned it on and now i am not getting any heat at all.

House fuse/breakers been checked?
Power to the unit been checked with a meter?

jeff.

 

[Kajillin]

Thanks for the response jeff. Both hots are powered up. I have turned it on previously and tested voltage on the element. It was getting 120 to it but not getting hot.

 

[jeff1]

I have turned it on previously and tested voltage on the element. It was getting 120 to it but not getting hot.

The element is 220-240 volts AC, can't get 120 volts unless you are testing to ground which is normally a nono.
I saw the consol of the washer and hope the dryer is similier, this -should- tell us an electronic board in the main body controls
the heat and should be checked. The heat is the largest relay and the wires can temporarily be put together to see if the heat will work.

Both hots are powered up.

Should be 220-240 volts between red and black, 110-120 volts between red or black to white.

jeff.

 

[Kajillin]

The PCB is epoxied in there. There's no access to any wires. There is a few that come out, and go to another board on top of the drum. But it is also epoxied on to the housing. I can get some pictures up tomorrow.

 

[jeff1]

There is a few that come out, and go to another board on top of the drum

Thats the one.

jeff.

 

[Kajillin]

Here is the PCB on top of the drum.

 

[jeff1]

Those large blue and black wires, remove them from the relay and tape them together. Run the dryer
as a test to see if the heat will work.

jeff.

 

[Kajillin]

I put those wires together and run it for a few minutes. Still not getting any heat.

 

[jeff1]

I have tested every part of the thing with a multimeter, they all check out for continuity.

I put those wires together and run it for a few minutes. Still not getting any heat.

Should be 220-240 volts between red and black, 110-120 volts between red or black to white.

Start over then, missed something.
Start with power to dryer. Power across the 2 wires to the heating element. If no 220-240 volts AC to the element, pull off both wires, fire the dryer back up and test each of the heating element wires to ground. One should work ( 110-120 volts AC ) and other should be dead ( 0 volts AC ). Follow the dead one towards your trouble maker.

jeff.

 

[Kajillin]

Thanks jeff, again i really appreciate you helping me out. I had started over, was definitely not testing the voltage properly. I took the wires off the element, tested the both to ground. The blue wire that feeds through the thermostats is giving me 110-120.

The red wire is dead, it feeds back to behind the blower motor. Just for kicks i tested the plug with an actual AC reading, i am only getting 200-206 volts with no load. I need to find a hand and some time, because i guess i have to take the drum out to get to where the red wire is fed.

 

[jeff1]

The blue wire that feeds through the thermostats is giving me 110-120.

That one works

The red wire is dead

That is the bad one

it feeds back to behind the blower motor

*I* have not had to change one on a Samsung built dryer yet, but most motors have a heat switch built in, the switch will close when the motor is up and running so the heat can come on.

Just for kicks i tested the plug with an actual AC reading, i am only getting 200-206 volts with no load.

Also test running, pull out the cord a little and take a voltage reading with the dryer running.

jeff.