Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15

Thread: MVWX500XW Basket speed sensor?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    7

    Default MVWX500XW Basket speed sensor?

    Model Number: MVWX500XW
    Brand: Maytag
    Age: 1-5 years

    Initial symptoms were that the washer, in the middle of a normal cycle, would stop for ~ 10 min (when it should be transitioning between 2 different activities in the cycle), after which the lid would unlock and then resume. If I pushed pause after lid unlocked, it would lock and resume. Which was manageable, but now, the machine, upon the beginning of a cycle will lock, unlock, lock, while it does its usual minor agitation and water, then stop.

    Being un-handy but nerdy, I searched the internet for the technician manual, where I put it in diagnostic mode and did an automatic test where it did everything but spin and would refuse to unlock the lid at the end of the test. So, doing a manual test, I was able to get it to do everything (hot/cold valves, fabric softener, drain, both agitation types, and lid lock), but it wouldn't spin (the first time I did a manual test, it did spin on low, but didn't on subsequent tests on low or high). It sounds like it's setting itself up to get into a spin (basket turns a bit), then pauses like normal, but doesn't begin the spinning to higher RPMs. And, I can't get it out of the spin test or unlock the lid, so I have to unplug the machine to get it to unlock. Pulling up fault codes in the diagnostic mode, one of the ones I get is "basket speed sensor fault". Which seems consistent with the other symptoms, as the documentation says that the machine has to begin from 0 RPM. If the machine doesn't know it's at 0 RPM, it would wait until the basket gets to that speed, so it can begin.

    Reading the technician manual, it has me go through tests 3a (drive system-shifter) and 3b (drive system-motor). Test 3b seems unnecessary because I could get it to agitate, so I work through 3a. I get through steps 7 of test 3a and have to stop because, even though my multimeter let me test resistance in step 6, I can't figure out how to test voltages with the probes while the J16 connector is plugged in. Don't know if going down this method of testing is even worthwhile, if I know what the likely cause is.

    Am I making the right conclusions?

    Thanks,
    Adam
    Last edited by badtothebohn; February 5th, 2017 at 10:54 AM. Reason: signed post

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    7

    Default

    I was assuming myself correct that the basket sensor was faulty, so I tried "calibration mode" in case that would calibrate it to realizing the basket is at 0 rpm. It went through several actions before hitting a snag - instead of all lights on and the machine going through several activities, suddenly all lights turned off, except lid lock. Had to unplug the machine to get it to unlock. Hopefully, this additional symptom is helpful.

    Thanks,
    Adam
    Last edited by badtothebohn; February 5th, 2017 at 10:55 AM. Reason: signed post.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    McMullen Valley, Arizona
    Posts
    98,580

    Default

    Hi Adam,

    Lets first check for a cut wire, look at what this guy found with his: MVWX500XW1 Maytag washer won't spin on spin cycle.

    Read post #31 and you can download the attachment bigbuck posted, then look at post #35 where he shows the cut wire.

    If no wires are cut, follow everything Rick says to do.

    Also our other tech. bigbuck posted a very detailed .pdf attachment you can download for that Basket Speed Sensor Fault in post #31 of that thread.

    Usually this fault code is the shift actuator.

    Here's the shift actuator for your model you can order here(Video Included):
    Shift Actuator WPW10006355


    Also read my post#2 that I helped Shane with: Maytag MVWC400XW4 Not spinning during wash cycle


    I can't figure out how to test voltages with the probes while the J16 connector is plugged in.
    All you do is put your meter probes in that connector. Is that what your asking? I'm a little confused by that statement.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    7

    Default

    I'll start with the easiest first. In order to rest resistance, I take the J16 connector from the motherboard and touch the probes to the only exposed metal I can find. Which works. However, to test voltage, I'm supposed to plug the J16 connector back to the motherboard, plug in the washer, and touch the probes to the same connectors while shifting between agitator and spin in manual test mode.

    However, between the awkwardness of the angle, which makes it nearly impossible to touch both probes to their respective wires, and the fact that I have to alternate between agitator and spin to test the shifter while keeping the probes touching the wires, I can't figure out a good way to test voltages. So, if there are better ways to diagnose (which you covered in the rest of your reply and which I'm still reading through), I might as well stop this method of diagnosis.

    Thanks,
    Adam

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Ha! It took a while, but I squeezed the probes in to get step 8 (testing shifter motor) done, which got +120VAC. When testing the shifter switch (step 9), I got 0 and +5VDC when testing Spin and Agitator, respectively. When testing optical sensor in step 10, I got the correct result in step 10 (+13VDC), but in step 11, the RPM never strayed from +5VDC. Assuming this is consistent with "voltage is not confirmed", as it should vary between 0 and +5VDC, the rest of test 3a requires more disassembling than I'm comfortable doing at this time with no sleep. Will wait for neighbor/dad to stop by to help out with that. Though, steps 14 and 15 are mostly just looking for a bad connection (visual inspection of wires and continuity test with multimeter). And if the connections are good and continuity is good, then it's time to replace the shifter assembly. Which is consistent with your post - look for wire breaks and replace shift actuator (which I assume is the same as the shifter assembly?).

    Using the Basket Speed Sensor Fault PDF which BigBuck posted, the machine failed the Tachymeter test, which is consistent with the RPM result - the machine always thinks the basket is moving.

    Does the RPM staying at +5VDC (and failed Tachymeter test) mean the optical sensor is broken? Or is it a problem with the shift actuator/shifter assembly?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Repairclinic site you posted explains that the transmission speed/position optical sensor is within the shifter. Provided there are no broken wires when I check later, it sounds like it's the shifter assembly at fault.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    McMullen Valley, Arizona
    Posts
    98,580

    Default

    Yes Adam, order the shift actuator, its bad.


    Does the RPM staying at +5VDC (and failed Tachymeter test) mean the optical sensor is broken? Or is it a problem with the shift actuator/shifter assembly?
    The optical sensor is inside the shift actuator itself.

    If voltage is not confirmed, go to step 12. which you already checked for correct? broken wires? loose wire connections? if thats good then go to step 16 which says replace the shift actuator.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Actually, I ordered the shifter just after I posted yesterday - and ordered it early enough in the day that, even though I only opted for the 2 day shipping, I'm getting it this afternoon.

    I haven't checked for wire/connection issues, but given that the issue degraded from 7 months ago to today, I inferred that the part got worse and not additional wires broke (though I did move since then, so it's possible one got loosened in the move). Working 10 hour overnight shifts, I haven't had time to learn how to disassemble the entire machine to look for loose wires (though I could check continuity if I can figure out that step). Or install the shifter and see if that fixes it.

    When it says "voltage is confirmed", what does that mean? The voltage did get to +5VDC, but it didn't toggle like described. So, I confirmed half of it to be true, but I assume they mean that for voltage to be confirmed, it has to pass both halves of that test (getting ranges between +5VDC and 0)? It sounds pedantic, I know, but the verbiage seems clunky.

    Thanks for all your help.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    McMullen Valley, Arizona
    Posts
    98,580

    Default

    When it says "voltage is confirmed", what does that mean? The voltage did get to +5VDC, but it didn't toggle like described.
    That means your getting voltage to it at least.


    it has to pass both halves of that test (getting ranges between +5VDC and 0)?
    That I don't know the answer too.

    Let us know if it works after you replace the shift actuator.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Quoth Bill Murray in Stripes: "It. Is. Alive." It took more time to reassemble the control panel I had removed than it took to top it over and replace the actuator. Still need to go back and relevel the washer. Barely had enough time to replace the shifter, let alone figure out the immensely complicated feet.

    Thanks again for your help. As much of a unhandy nerd I am, it was fun to learn how to do appliance work. Gave me a reason to use my brand new ratchet set.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 5
    Last Post: February 19th, 2017, 03:51 PM
  2. FIXED: Basket Not Spinning
    By rustyfender in forum Maytag/Magic Chef/Admiral/Jenn-Air
    Replies: 79
    Last Post: January 28th, 2015, 10:38 PM
  3. basket will not spin
    By mhale in forum Maytag/Magic Chef/Admiral/Jenn-Air
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: September 9th, 2013, 10:25 PM
  4. Basket Loose?
    By moonchies in forum Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Roper/Estate
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: January 25th, 2011, 03:43 AM
  5. Spin basket won't come off
    By bobgail in forum Maytag/Magic Chef/Admiral/Jenn-Air
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: November 13th, 2006, 04:31 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
If you feel that you have benefited from this site, and would like to show your appreciation, you can throw a buck or two in the Appliance Blog Tip Jar - Thank you!