596.72002013 Kenmore Over under, collecting ice in freezer, popping noises

gendat

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2019
Messages
6
Location
PA
Model Number
596.72002013
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
1-5 years
I found ice (~1/4" thick) and frost on seal of bottom freezer after seeing water on floor in front. The dust build up was totally hiding the coils under the front snap off panel at bottom. I wasn't able to get all the coils vacuumed off as the front "row" blocks you from getting at the rear "row". But the removal of the huge build up of dust of the front "row" stopped the water it seemed and quited it down a bit. It is almost as if one needs to tip the fridge over to get at all the coils?! It seems the ice/water/moisture is coming from where the cold air blows in? See pics... Thank you

IMG_20190408_112906056.jpg IMG_20190408_112920922.jpg IMG_20190408_112858593.jpg
 

gendat

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2019
Messages
6
Location
PA
How does one troubleshoot this ice/moisture thats getting into or being created in the freezer?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
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Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,648
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

Looks like your defrost drain hole is clogged up not allowing the defrost drain water to drain down to your drain pan underneath your refrigerator, I'd remove the back panel from inside the freezer and check your defrost drain hole for an ice clog.

Here's the freezer parts diagram that shows the back panel inside the freezer:
(click to enlarge)
K1206096-00002.jpg

Take all the food and shelves out of your freezer, The back panel is #11, and #22 is the vent you have to remove as well, The air vent #22 should have 2 clips on both sides of it that you would need to unsnap with a flathead screwdriver first before removing the back panel. Then remove the back panel screws. If you have an ice maker, you'll likely need to unmount that to get more room to remove the back panel.

Then the defrost drain hole is located underneath the evaporator coils, clear all the ice in your drain trough and drain hole with a hair dryer and hot water, then run something down the drain hole, then run a little bleach down it.

I use a evaporator cooler spider snake to run down that defrost drain hole: http://www.azpartsmaster.com/Products/Cooler-Spider-Snake__CLR4690.aspx

They are used basically in Arizona to clean out the water pump tubes that run to the cooler pads.

I don't know if they would sell them in your area, but if you go to your local hardware store, they should have something similar to run down your drain to clean it completely out.

Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

gendat

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2019
Messages
6
Location
PA
Thank you Jake, so far I've looked and was a bit overwhelmed by the removal of the drawer and those panels. I remember once finding the freezer drawer open a bit, for what could have been a significant time, could of that started the process? Do I have the option, as the amount of frozen items is not great, to empty the freezer and set it's temperature to something high or turn it off somehow, to let the ice melt off on its own?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,648
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, unplug the refrigerator for 24 hours with the doors left open and let it de-ice.

Now, I just came from a service call today with the exact same problem, and I took everything out of the freezer and removed the back panel in the freezer and de-iced all the ice in the drain trough and it still wouldn't drain and thought that was odd, so I pull the refrigerator out from the wall, then removed the lower back access panel and found the rubber duckbill and pulled it off and the defrost water poured into the drain pan and the duckbill was all clogged up.

There is a P-trap drain available to replace the duckbill drain valve.

I'm attaching the Technical Service bulletin #W10632338 below.

The new part:
W10619951


Video included in part link.

Here's the service bulletin on it: https://drive.google.com/open?id=10VGXM8cb0-zumJ1xwslQzJQ5n0nBXZtn

Jake
 

gendat

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2019
Messages
6
Location
PA
Very nice Jake, I couldn't find my model number on that service bulletin?! Does this mean that part is ok on mine?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,648
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Does this mean that part is ok on mine?
You will have to remove the rubber nipple and see, it just pulls off the drain tube where it comes the back underneath the refrigerator, so pull the refrigerator out from the wall, and watch that video in that part link I posted.

That video will show you how to access it, just click the part link to it in post #5.:)

Jake
 

gendat

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2019
Messages
6
Location
PA
Thanks for the help, it was much appreciated. I let it drain naturally, by turning off the unit for a couple days. Lots of water came into the freezer floor and the drain pan was half full. The rubber duck bill connector was gummed / clogged up. It is the longer newer one that was suppose to fix the issue. I cleaned it up, hot water / cleaning solutions, and vacuumed dust and put it back together. It seems the p-trap replacement part may be the all-purpose / all-model solution for this issue. Mine has a trough that the duckbill dumps into. Some say take the duckbill off. I noticed the tube that comes down into the duckbill had a similar gooey / dusty grey matter inside it, which was more congregated at the duckbill. I wonder where that crap comes from. Very sticky, dense grey goo with fine hairs / dust. The tube above didn't seem to be clogged, but just the fact this type substance is being generated seems not good, as it appears to be a fluid system, not solids.
 

Wx4usa

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2013
Messages
69
Location
Alabama
gendat, the evaporator fans (freezer fan) are quite strong on these fridges and will literally pull in debris through the drain hole hence the duck bill. The p trap is far more effective at keeping air, debris to a minimum. The trap itself fills with water to stop air leaks. In designing fridges there must be a balance between water draining and air leak stopping lol. Too big a drain hole and there is an air leak...lots of frost and debris; too small, they clog easily. Some folks have simply removed the duck bill and then they have frost and a drain restriction pretty quickly.
 

gendat

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2019
Messages
6
Location
PA
Thank you. I was going to buy the p-trap but noted prior that the service bulletin didn't include my model #. (the Technical Service bulletin #W10632338 - above). Is my model# included, would the part fit? I wondered if since Kenmore being sold perhaps my model# was transposed into a new one. Also, How does one unclip the bottom of the trough? It doesn't seem to just yank off. I didn't want to snap anything.
 

Wx4usa

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2013
Messages
69
Location
Alabama
Yes the p-trap replaces the old water slide. Most sites will cross reference you to the new p trap and the slide is no longer current.

The top of the old part, the water slide, rests under the drain hole and then the slide extends to the floor of the trough/water pan and yes the bottom just pulls off the inside of the trough/pan.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,648
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, I looked up the parts diagram for your model and it says yours takes the p-trap.

This is it for your model:
W10619951


Jake
 
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