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Thread: 110.23032100 Kenmore Elite washing machine stops during cycles

  1. #1
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    Default 110.23032100 Kenmore Elite washing machine stops during cycles

    Model Number: 110.23032100
    Brand: Sears Kenmore
    Age: 6-10 years

    Hi,
    I have a Kenmore Elite washing machine which is at least 10 years old, possible a little more. It worked great for the longest time but now it just stops, usually when it's about to drain the water out either after washing the clothes or after the rinse wash is done. It happens regardless of whether it's on a normal cycle or permanent press or whatever. It also doesn't matter if the motor is on normal, delicate, fine delicates, etc... at first, I messed with the lid, lifting it up and down to see if the lid switch was the problem. Eventually, after doing that a few times, it would get going again.

    The strange thing is, if the machine were spinning, it WOULD stop so I wasn't 100% sure about the lid switch. I call appliancepartspros and the lady rep convinced me that it might be an intermittent problem so I bought a NEW lid switch and installed it. The problem still exists.

    I also bought a new timer in case that might be the problem but I didn't install it so I may return it if it's NOT the problem. I would like to test the timer first to verify. On appliancepartspros website and on another website, they mentioned that one other possibility could be the control board. I would like instructions on how to test the timer AND the control board if possible so I can rule out any parts that aren't causing the problem. I know HOW to test things and I do have a DVOM but I just don't know where to put the probes to check if these parts are good or not. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

  2. #2
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    Default

    Hi,

    When it stops like that, does the timer still advance? Or stay in one place? Does it make any sounds like it wants to do something, like a hum sound, or everything is dead silent?

    How long do you wait? because there can be up to a 2 minute pause on some models between the drain and the spin.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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  3. #3
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    Hi Jake,
    There are no sounds at all from the machine itself OR the timer...very quiet. There also isn't any burning smell coming from anywhere like I did with our dishwasher. The timer does not advance at all...it just stays there and doesn't decide to move until I "mess" with the lid. Then and only then does it move and when it it does move, the machine eventually continues on with completing the entire wash cycle. As far as the two minute pause is concerned...that is just about how long our machine normally takes before it continues to the next stage of the wash cycle but when the machine stops, I could just sit there and wait and nothing until I "mess" with the lid.

  4. #4
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    That's strange if you mess with the lid it starts working, and you already replaced the lid switch.

    If your lid caved-in in the middle? If so pop it out and see if it starts working every time. I've seen that happen many times, if the lid is caved-in the door strike will not push the lid switch down properly all the time.

    If your lid is not caved-in, is your door strike broken at the tip of it?

    If not, then it has to be the timer that's bad.

    Here's the timer for your model:
    Timer WP3955734


    Jak
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  5. #5
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    Hi Jake,
    As far as I can tell the lid doesn't look caved-in...it looks pretty straight. When I had the machine cover off, while installing the lid switch, I did check to see if the door strike were pushing down enough on the switch arm. It definitely seemed like it was. As far as the door strike being broken, it looks absolutely fine. My mother thinks that maybe the lid is pushed down too much in the middle area (near the top part of the lid) by our leaning on it sometimes. I don't know...I'm not 100% sure about this. It's really hard to tell. The lid could be a bit out of whack because I noticed that when the machine is spinning and I leaned on the front edge too much, it STOPS spinning. Although, when I stopped leaning on it too hard, it would continue again. Do you think that would have anything to do with it? I saw online, ways that a timer can be tested for continuity with a DVOM. We were also thinking that maybe a plastic gear or two were damaged inside the timer but who knows. Is there a way to test the timer, either electrically and/or mechanically? I mean...I know how to test things but I just don't know which connections to put the test leads.

  6. #6
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    Jake,
    My mother just told me earlier this evening that when she just lifted the lid just a little bit, the machine continued with its cycle. You were actually on the right track. We both kept messing around with the lid in different ways...basically lifting it up and down and pushing it from side to side. We noticed that the hinge on the side where the lid switch is was kinda of loose. Even the hinge on that side was also a bit loose. I tried tightening the tiny screws on the hinge but they were as tight as they could be. In fact, I tightened one screw a bit too much and it just snapped in half. It seems that this is the problem. Since the hinge and the lid are both loose, the little metal arm isn't pushing the arm on the switch in all the way, therefore causing the machine to stop. I know that a lid is available for the machine but I was thinking that maybe two new hinges would do the trick. The main body and the lid aren't in the greatest shape. They are a bit beat up. I was thinking of just putting a wedge of some sort in where the lid and hinge meet. Maybe that would tighten things up and solve the problem permanently or do you think that it might be necessary to buy a new lid? Any thoughts?

  7. #7
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    Yes, this machine does have quite a bit of age on it.

    The lid is out-of-stock everywhere online: WPW10193865 Lid

    So I doubt they even make it anymore.


    I was thinking of just putting a wedge of some sort in where the lid and hinge meet. Maybe that would tighten things up and solve the problem permanently
    Sounds like a plan, try it and see.

    So
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  8. #8
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    Jake,
    I just wanted to let you know that the hinges themselves are o.k but after more closer examination, I noticed that the white plastic hinge bushings are pretty worn and beat up. I ordered two of those and I also ordered (4) NEW screws for the hinges. This will definitely tighten things up and hopefully will do the trick. As soon as I get these parts and install them I will will let you know how everything goes.

  9. #9
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    Excellent, good find!

    Here's the lid bushings/bearings for your model:
    WP8319539 Lid Hinge Bearing


    Here's the lid hinge screws for your model:
    Screw WPW10119828


    There is even a video in the screw part link.

    Yes, please do let us know how it goes.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

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