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Thread: FIXED: Maytag A612S Slow Spin

  1. #1
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    Default FIXED: Maytag A612S Slow Spin

    Model Number: A612S
    Brand: Maytag
    Age: More than 10 years

    I have a Maytag A612S washing machine that we purchased new and has served us well with only a couple of belt replacements over the years. Recently, we have noticed that it is not spinning as fast. Clothes are not getting spun out as good, and after watching I can see that it does not get up to a sufficient spin speed to empty the fabric softener cup until the very end of the final spin. I cleaned & wire brushed the pulleys, checked the motor mount, and installed new belts. The old transmission belt looked okay but was shiny. With the belts removed, I can rotate the transmission pulley in both directions. It turns quiet easily in the direction to agitate. It is a little firmer, but does turn without much effort in the spin direction. There is no abnormal noise in either direction. This washer has what I believe is the old, and apparently no longer available flat style transmission with the counter weight.

    My questions are:

    What’s wrong? Does it sound like I have transmission problems and if so, is there a replacement transmission for this washer and if so, is it of the same quality as the original?

    If I tackle this repair, what all parts should I replace, bearings, seals, etc?

    Many of the owners of these older Maytags in my area have been replacing them with Speed Queen (top loaders with the mechanical knob controls). Is this a wise choice as opposed to the cost of the parts that you expect I should be replacing?

    Thanks for your help

  2. #2
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    That model style Maytag is considered by many service techs as one of the best machines ever made. The machine is built like a tank. It's easy to repair and most parts are still available. JMO but I think it's ten times better than a Speed Queen.


    Quote Originally Posted by toot1977 View Post
    Does it sound like I have transmission problems?
    No, the slow spin can be caused by the tub bearing or spin bearing but before you replace them check a few other things first.
    1. Check the pump is pumping all the water out and there's a good steady stream.
    2. Check the motor glides and springs. The motor needs to move back and forth on the mounting plate to keep the pressure steady on the motor pulley. Spray the glides and springs with WD40 and use your hand to move the motor.
    3. Check the adjustment of the drive lug:
    Unplug the machine and disconnect the hoses. Lay the washer down on it’s front. Remove the belts and check for any pieces of belt missing. A notch in a belt can cause a knocking noise. Remove the dust cover in the center of the drive pulley. Do not clean out the grease in the dust cover. Turn the drive pulley onto the shaft clockwise until all the play is taken up. Holding the pulley in this position, the distance between the drive lug and pulley lug should be 3/8”. Turn the pulley counterclockwise and check to see that the drive lug and pulley are making contact.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by toot1977 View Post
    what all parts should I replace,
    Here's the motor glides:
    Motor Mount Spring Kit 205000
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	36379Click image for larger version. 

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    Here's the tub bearing:
    Tub Bearing 6-2040130
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here's the spin bearing:
    Bearing WP22003441
    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #3
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    After finally getting back to my slow spinning A612S, I followed your instructions above (thank you!). The primary problem appears to have been the tub bearing as it was very difficult to turn. In addition to replacing the tub bearing and seal, I also replaced the lower radial bearing (above the brake). I have the washer back together and cannot get it to spin. The motor runs and I can see the pump turning. I am thinking it must have something to do with the brake, although it worked fine prior to my removing it to replace the bearing. I am confident that I have the tub and tub bearing installed correctly.

    With the brake removed, I can easily spin the transmission assembly with my hand (this was very difficult before replacing he tub bearing). As I install the brake assembly by threading it on, the transmission assembly spins with the brake assembly for about the first 2/3 way on, then there appears to start being resistance (from the brake?) and the transmission assembly starts to become harder to turn. By the time the brake assembly gets threaded all the way in, I cannot spin the transmission assembly. The lock clip (7/16 hex bolt) is gripping the bottom thread, and that appears to be where it was originally from previous indentation marks. I then set the bottom key washer by turning the pulley as far clockwise as it will go and setting it to 1/2" gap from there. But the only movement that I have on the pulley is the movement within the ½” gap, it will turn not further in either direction. This does not seem right to me. Can someone explain the proper brake operation and what I am missing here? Thanks for your help.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by toot1977 View Post
    By the time the brake assembly gets threaded all the way in, I cannot spin the transmission assembly.
    Insert the brake package over the drive tube splines and start the threads of the brake package into the damper turning it by hand. When turning the brake package into the damper allow the transmission to turn so you don’t have to overcome the friction of the brake. When you have it threaded tight use the brake tool and hammer to seat it firmly in place. Replace the retaining clip and bolt in the damper.

    If the brake package was installed correctly the brake is engaged and the transmission will not turn. When the machine goes into a spin cycle the rotor bearing and pulley ride up the shaft and push against the brake package to release it. Turn the drive pulley and rotor bearing onto the shaft clockwise until all the play is taken up but don't release the brake. Holding the pulley in this position, the distance between the drive lug and pulley lug should be 3/8”. Turn the pulley counterclockwise and check to see that the drive lug and pulley are making contact.
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  5. #5
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    Thanks for the prompt reply. Following your instructions, I repeated the brake package install. I can turn the brake package by hand while installing (transmission assy is turning also) until about the last full turn at which point the transmission stops turning and I use the wrench to finish the final turn to tighten. From the clip marks, I believe the brake package is being seated in the same position as where it first started.

    At this point it appears to me that the brake is engaged because the transmission assy will not turn when I try to turn it by hand.

    I then install the pulley & rotor bearing, by turning onto the shaft clockwise. It spins on freely to a position where is stops but there is no resistance, or spring pressure pushing back on it (I call this position A), I can spin it another 45 degrees while there is considerable spring pressure pushing it back counter clockwise. It will only go about the 45 degrees and stops. (I call that position B). From watching videos, I was unclear which position to use for the 3/8" gap, and I have tried both. From your instructions above, I believe you are saying to use what I called position A.

    At this point, the pulley spins counter clockwise (by hand with minimal effort) and the agitator operates. The pulley lug contacts the drive lug when turning the pulley counter clockwise. When i spin the pulley clockwise, it goes 45 degrees past position A to position B and stops (this is about 120-130 degrees away from the drive lug), it will turn no further (with great effort I can barely turn the pulley resulting in a grinding noise). I assume the brake is still engaged. When I place the brake package (with the radial bearing seated) on the floor, I can press down on it with my 250#'s and feel some spring give in it. It appears to me that whatever is supposed to happen when the pulley starts turning clockwise to release the brake is not happening.

    What I have done is to; 1) remove the brake package & replace the radial bearing (I have tried putting the original bearing back in with the same result), and 2) remove and replace the tub bearing and seal. I have tried to clean pieces as I reinstalled. I did not open or disassemble the brake package. I believe the tub bearing & seal are installed properly as the inner tub does spin nicely up until the final turn of installing the brake package. This all started due to a slow spin which I now believe was caused by a tight tub bearing. I do not see any signs of the seal leakage anywhere.

    Any further thoughts? did I do something to the brake while removing it? will a new brake solve this?

    Thanks again

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by toot1977 View Post
    I can spin it another 45 degrees while there is considerable spring pressure pushing it back counter clockwise.
    The resistance (pushing against the brake package) releases the brake and at that point the transmission, inner tub and drive pulley all turn together with very little resistance. When you stop turning the drive pulley CW the brake engages and everything stops turning. If that's not happening something went wrong with the reassembly somewhere.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by toot1977 View Post
    This all started due to a slow spin which I now believe was caused by a tight tub bearing.
    Or the slow spin was due to the brake not releasing all the way. And now maybe it's not releasing at all?? If you can't keep turning the pulley after you feel the resistance the brake is not releasing.

    Brake Assembly WP6-2011900
    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #8
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    I did order the new brake from the link you provided and washer will now spin and agitate properly. My last problem with this thing is that I am having difficulty getting the inner tub to keep from hitting the outer tub during the spin cycles. This was not an issue (it is easily heard) before I started working on this although I do see signs of scuffing that are old enough to have rust around the edges . This washer has the metal tub cover that is held on with the metal band clamp and rubber washer. The top of the inner tub is hitting the inside of the outer tub cover ring on the side. I have tried adjusting the height of the tub cover ring without much success. I have also tried loosening the inner tub nut and re-centering the inner tub. Is there a procedure to make sure the inner tub does not hit the outer tub cover ring during spin? All the videos I find show the plastic cover and I find no mention of the metal cover.

  9. #9
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    The older maytags had the metal cover. I used the width of my finger to gauge the space between the cover and top of the tub. Make sure the balance springs are adjusted the same. Try changing the position of the large clamp. I can't remember if there are two screws for that large clamp, if so adjust them evenly.
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