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Thread: Danby Silhouette Wine Cooler Not Cooling - 2 Different Units

  1. #1
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    Houston, TX
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    Default Danby Silhouette Wine Cooler Not Cooling - 2 Different Units

    Model Number: DWC2121BLS
    Brand: other
    Age: 6-10 years

    I have two Danby Silhouette Wine Coolers that came with my house when I purchased it. I live in a townhome complex and the builder used these same wine coolers in all of our units. They all have stopped working (8 in total). My neighbors have replaced theirs but I am determined to find a solution to repair mine. It seems such a waste for a big machine to stop working and not have a repair. I have had a Danby recommended repair company come out to look at them but they said the unit is discontinued and they can not get the parts any more. It really is such a shame to waste so many $1200 units. I would greatly appreciate any assistance this wonderful community can provide and help me find a way to save these beautiful coolers.

    Danby Silhouette DWC2727BLS - Unit not cooling, I can feel the compressor vibrating and the fan is spinning.

    Danby Silhouette DWC2121BLS - Unit not cooling, no vibration from compressor and no spinning of the fan.

    What should my next steps be? I am located in Houston, TX if anyone is located here I would love the opportunity to pay for your help in fixing these two units.

    Thank you and have a great day!

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by KyEx View Post
    Unit not cooling, I can feel the compressor vibrating and the fan is spinning.
    This one is easy to diagnose. The problem is in the sealed system. Most likely the compressor is bad. You'll need a set of refrigeration gauges to confirm it. Sealed system repairs costs will exceed the machines value.

    Quote Originally Posted by KyEx View Post
    Unit not cooling, no vibration from compressor and no spinning of the fan.
    Check for 120 VAC at the compressor.
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  3. #3
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    First Cooler) Repairs of the sealed system, or recharging the system; would this cost more than like $500-$600?


    Second Cooler) It's been sitting for a while, I just plugged it in to test the voltage and the compressor and fan are on! I hear the sound of fluid going through the lines. The left side is trying to cool, the numbers are dropping, but the right side is not changing temperature. I've had it plugged in for about 20 minutes now and set both sides to try to cool to 38 degrees. The left side is down to 40 and cold inside, but the right side is stuck at 76 and not trying to cool at all. So is there hope for fixing this one at least? I really hope so!

  4. #4
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    The price varies from area to area so you'll need to call around for prices. More likely $700-$1000. The other cooler needs to run for 24 hours before temperatures will stabilize. Usually, if you hear the refrigerant boiling in the lines it's either a refrigerant leak or system restriction, another sealed system problem. Check the frost pattern on the evaporator coils and make sure the fans are running.
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  5. #5
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    I've let the cooler sit overnight and it has worsened. During the day when I had it plugged in (this is a dual zone cooler) according to the digital display: the left side got as low as 36 degrees and the right side hovered around 78. The fan inside each zone was spinning. Now after it's been sitting overnight, this morning the compressor and fan on the back of the unit are not running. The left side has increased to 65 and the right side is flashing "HI" the fan inside each zone is still spinning.

  6. #6
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    If there's 120 VAC at the compressor, it may be locking up. If the voltage at the compressor is 0 VAC, the main board is bad.
    OWNER RICK'S APPLIANCE REPAIR
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  7. #7
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    Okay, I have a multimeter but I've never used one before, would you mind pointing me in the right direction of where I would put the black and red wires? Also on my multimeter for VAC there is either 240 or 200, which should I have it set to? Should the wine cooler be plugged in or off when I test it?

    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #8
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    OK, no problem. First, you must voltage to measure it so plugged in and turned on. On the compressor, push in on the top of the spring clip to remove it and take the black cover off the relay and overload. There's probably just the two wires so set your meter to the 200 VAC scale and measure across the two wires. If there's more than the two wires there's most likely a run capacitor. Just be sure you take the measurement between the wire on the compressor common pin wich would be the overload, and the compressor run pin, relay terminal. Here's a diagram:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    OWNER RICK'S APPLIANCE REPAIR
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  9. #9
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    Okay I got the clip to come off but the cover won't come off without me breaking it because there is a black box bolted down on the far left side in the image I posted above, the power cord runs into it. Is it safe to unscrew and remove that while the wine cooler is on?

  10. #10
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    I would unplug the machine first just to be on the safe side. Remove the cover then restore power.
    OWNER RICK'S APPLIANCE REPAIR
    APPLIANCE TECHNICIAN FOR 31 YEARS
    REFRIGERATION SPECIALIST
    ONLINE SERV TECH: ApplianceBlog.com
    CERTIFIED TYPE 1; TYPE 2.....REFRIGERATION SERVICE E.S.

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