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FIXED 665.12776K310 Kenmore Elite Dishwasher extremely hot water/ stuck in a cycle

laurent

Premium Member
Joined
May 30, 2018
Messages
13
Location
Chicago
Model Number
665.12776K310
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
6-10 years
Model: 665.12776K310

Hello Everyone,

My dishwasher is about 7 years old and we use is very frequently at least once a day. Last year, I had to replace a top rack plastic bracket with the metal one and later the diverter seal because it was leaking.
Since about February 2021, I caught the dishwasher stuck in a cycle (sometimes 1-hour or Normal wash) for more than 8 hours. When I opened it, the water was filled quite a bit at the bottom. I could almost hear something that is trying to process something but stuck in a loop. After experiencing that twice, I reset the power breaker and it went away. Then, I started noticing more and more hard plastic cup/plates melting. The steam was so hot that the bottom of the countertop where the vent is started to drip and bubbled up the cabinet panel. Resetting the power breaker didn't help and instead, I am now experiencing the machine getting stuck again and extremely hot water. What is frustrating is that sometimes it ran the cycle normally.

Questions:
1. Since this is a panel ready dishwasher, I ran the diagnostic but how can I see the codes if there isn't anywhere to display it? The diagnostic completed successfully I believe
2. What is causing the water to go super hot randomly? My water boiler produces heat at about 110 Fahrenheit
3. What is causing the machine to randomly stuck in a cycle?
4. Also, in the attached video, I am noticing the humming noise getting louder then it should (minus the water sound). Is this a sign of motor going bad?

 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below, Look on page 6--->Service Diagnostics with Error Codes

Your model may have the Complete LED instead of Clean LED.

The Clean (or Complete) LED will flash the error codes in two parts. The Clean (or Complete) LED will first flash the function code, pause for 2 seconds then flash the problem code, pause for 5 seconds then repeat three times (unless advanced by the Start key to the next interval). If there are no error codes the Clean (or Complete) LED will stay on solid for 5 seconds.

Let us know what error code/codes you get.

In the video is it in the wash cycle or drain cycle? I'm not sure where that humming sound is coming from, possibly from the wash motor or diverter motor if its in the wash cycle.

By the way, please update your last thread from 2018 here:
So we will know what fixed it.:)

Thanks!

Jake
 

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laurent

Premium Member
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Messages
13
Location
Chicago
Thanks Jake. I updated the other post, nothing was done to the freezer.

As far the the dishwasher goes, I got error codes below:
9-1
3-2
6-4
9-2

Fyi; The dishwasher itself is pretty level all throughout. I'm not sure how to enter the service cycle diagnostic, if I leave it at normal and high temp cycle and close the door, it will start running. In the video I posted previously, after entering 123 sequence 3 times,I shut the door and it started running.

I also normally do Normal cycle washer without any options.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Location
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9-1--->Diverter Can't Find Position
3-2--->Thermistor/OWI Shorted
6-4--->Float Switch Open
9-2--->Diverter Stuck Open

In the tech. data sheet do exactly what it says to check for each error code.

For the overly hot water, that would be 3-2--->Thermistor/OWI Shorted. Check for shorted wires at the heating element and at the Thermistor/OWI.

Here's the Thermistor/OWI for your model you can order, if no shorts are found:
Turbidity Sensor WPW10705575



To run the SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS CYCLE:
Entry sequence: Press any 3 keys in the sequence 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3 with no more than 1 second between key presses. NOTE: Some models have replaced the “Clean” LED with “Completed.”
The Service Diagnostics Cycle will start when the door is closed.

--->Invoking Service Diagnostics clears all status and last run information from memory and restores defaults. It also forces the next cycle to be a sensor calibration cycle.

Jake
 

laurent

Premium Member
Joined
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Messages
13
Location
Chicago
Thanks, it doesn't look like there was any shorted wires. I'm going to replace that component and report back after running the Service Diagnostic Cycle.
I gave it a run yesterday with Normal cycle and High Temp wash option which I normally don't do. I stopped it after the wash cycle went on to 5 hours mark, it was still splashing water right before I opened the door. The steam was not as burning HOT as when it was melting plastics away.
 

Jake

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Ok sounds good, let us know how it goes after you replace the OWI Turbidity Sensor.

Jake
 

laurent

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Messages
13
Location
Chicago
Well, I replaced the OWI Turbidity Sensor today and ran the service diagnostic cycle. Once it completed, I ran the 123 sequence again, close and open door. All lights stayed solid, tried again...still the same, all lights were solid, which is good.

I ran a normal cycle without any options as usual. It completed in 2 hours! I thought it takes about 3 to 4 hours?
The only different was that I didn't use dishwasher pod,I poured the powder detergent instead since I find it more gentle on the machine. I will try the pods again and see how it behaves and report back in a week.

Note:
When removing the sensor, make sure to have a rag to catch the water flowing out..it was quite a lot of water for me.
 

Jake

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Excellent, sounds like your making good progress.(y)

We recommend using Cascade detergent, lots of times non-name brand or store brand detergent is not up to par and can muck up the inner workings of the dishwasher.

Jake
 

laurent

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Messages
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Location
Chicago
Jake,

Now that I think about it, a good detergent does make a big difference. For the last 6+ years, I was using Finish Pod, the compressed powder kind with a red dot in the middle. I switched to Kirkland Pod the powder kind as well (Costco) 3 months ago and I believe the wash cycle results have not been consistent.
I then switched to Cascade Pod, the one with Powder and Gel on the top. Which started giving me all kinds of problems on every wash.

My own analysis:
- Plastic plates/cups melted while using Cascade (powder with gel pod). Wash cycle last more than 10+ hours, dishes smelled like detergent was completely washed out -- This occurred on every wash
- Plastic plates/cups melted while using Kirkland (power pod) brand detergent (this happened a few times). Wash cycle runs 4-5 hours
- Cascade powder (the traditional kind where you have to pour or scoop) -- Every Normal cycle (for 6 days straight) consistently finished in two hours. Dishes were nicely cleaned and no strong smell of detergent left on the dishes.

After swapping out the OWI Turbidity sensor, I used the traditional Cascade powder form detergent for a week without any issue. I wanted to test out my theory so I put the Cascade pod (with powder and gel) in dishwasher. I had to stop the dishwasher after 5+ hours, the whole dishwasher smelled like Cascade. I ran two cleaning cycles but the dishes were very slippery still. I hand washed them all.
On the same day, I ran another wash cycle but with the traditional Cascade powder, it completed normally in 2 hours again.
 

Jake

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Yes, then I'd stick with traditional Cascade powder.(y)

Jake
 

laurent

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Jake,

I have some bad news. So after trying the gel pod detergent and my dishwasher was running for many hours again, switched back to powder detergent and normal cycle completed in 2 hours. However, the washes there after started to run more than 4+ hours, once where the wash for super hot again without the heat option. I ran the diagnostic cycle twice and got no error codes. Yesterday, I stopped the wash after 10 hours (I forgot to check it before going to bed). I ran diagnostic cycle again but this time I have one code, 9-1 Diverter Can't Find Position.

Do you think my dishwasher issue sounds like a diverter issue?
 

Jake

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Here's the diverter motor for your model:
W10537869 Motor


But first check and make sure the diverter plate is aligned and "snapped"/locked in place.

The diverter disc MAYBE sliding up the shaft while the unit is running. This gives it just enough space to slide off it's groove.

Watch this video below, it shows you how it clips in on the shaft.

Jake
 

laurent

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Messages
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Location
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The diverter disc indeed was shifted upwards and loose. After snapping it back in place, I put some force to push it down as much as I could. Immediately, the dishwasher ran fine for about 7 washes and same issue occurred again. I took it out, inspect it and snap it back in. Nothing seems to be abnormal on the diverter disc. It has been running 5 washes since I put it back in place for the 2nd time. If the dishwasher complete its cycle successfully, should the diverter disc (where the hole is) lines up with the flat side at the bottom?
 

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Jake

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Watch this video, he shows you how it goes onto the diverter motor shaft at about the 8:15 mark of the video.


Jake
 

laurent

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Yup, looks like I did it the way shown in the video. What is causing the diverter disc to pop up overtime?
 

Jake

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Either the diverter disc is worn out and keeps popping off, or the diverter motor shaft is worn out and won't hold it in place anymore.

Does the diverter disc look worn out(wallowed out in the middle) where the diverter motor shaft connects to it?

If so, then just order the new diverter disc:

If not, then order the new diverter motor, it comes with a new diverter disc:
W10537869 Motor


Jake
 

laurent

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Location
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I inspected the diverter disc prior to put it back in and it didn't look worn out. I'll inspect the shaft when it acts up again.

Thanks.
 

Jake

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Ok, sounds good.

Jake
 
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