665.12793K311 Kenmore Elite Dishwasher quit washing

carlilecb

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Model Number
665.12793K311
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
1-5 years
Hi, all. I tried to search for the answer to this post with no luck. My mom's Kenmore Elite 665.12793K311 quit washing. I checked inside and saw she had a cup with broken pieces laying on the top of the drain screen. Cleaned all and ran diagnostics. Got the following codes: F9E4: F9E1; F6E2; and F10E1. The bottom spray arm is the geared type and i had to turn it slightly to get the filter out (which sounded like I was skipping gears). I can find the answer to the following codes: Inlet Water Valve (which I ordered), Diverter Position; but cant find the meaning of F9E4 or F10E1. Anyone know what this basic fix is? I can pour a gallon of water in and the drain pump discharges it all out. I am thinking the water inlet valve failed, but not sure if the broken cup pieces destroyed the diverter motor. Thanks!
 

rickgburton

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F9E4- Lower Spray Arm (LSA) Error
Check for any blockage of lower spray arm (utensils, pot handles, etc.). Run the Service Diagnostic cycle and check for the LSA operation/fault detection in interval 10 and interval 3. If failure still exists, then: Disconnect power from the unit and check wiring connection for damage at controlled lower spray arm motor and sensor. Check for open or shorted LSA motor winding resistance (replace diverter module). If LSA motor circuit and wiring connections check good, and spray arm rotates, replace LSA sensor.

F10E1- Dispenser Solenoid Electrical Problem
Check for 280 - 340 ohms across the dispenser solenoid
 

carlilecb

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Thanks for the fast info. I am not sure how to look at intervals. When I go to test mode, it first throws the F9E4 then F9E1, F6E2 and finally the F10E1. I waited 24 minutes for the machine to test. When i opened up and removed the broken cup (ceramic) pieces from around the lower spray arm, it looked like it might have wedged against the spray arm. How do you check intervals?
 

rickgburton

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Diagnostic mode has 27 intervals and takes about 23 minutes. The test cycle starts on interval 27 and ends on interval 1. Interval 27 turns on all the LEDs as a display test. Interval 26 turns off all the LEDs just before displaying error codes.

Interval’s 25- 24- 23- and 22 are for error codes.

Interval 21- Press the Hi-Temp key to clear error code history. If the Hi-Temp key doesn’t respond open and close the door the press the hi-Temp key.

Press the Start/Resume key to rapid advance one interval at a time. (Skips sensor checks).

Interval 20 to Interval 3 is the test cycle. Intervals 2 and 1 are for any error codes found during the test cycle.

Interval 10 is 4 minutes long
Minute 1: LSA rotates CCW
Minute 2: LSA rotates CW
Minute 3: LSA rotates CCW Clean LED on indicates LSA motor status is good.
Minute 4: LSA rotates CW Clean LED on indicates LSA sensor status is good

LSA home position is 5 degrees CW of 12:00
 

carlilecb

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Thanks so much, Rick. I will try this when I go over to her house tomorrow. The inlet water solenoid should arrive. Just to be sure, the door needs to be open during the test, correct? Otherwise, I am not sure I can see the LSA moving.
 

rickgburton

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If you open the door you’ll probably pause the test cycle so open, check, close.
 

carlilecb

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Thanks, I will let you know how it works. She said it had gotten where it wasn't cleaning well, so I am guessing the water inlet solenoid is bad and the direct drive went out first. Thanks so much! Chris
 

carlilecb

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Rick,
I replaced the inlet water valve and put a new diverter motor on. No run. Ran diagnostics and got the same exact codes. F9E4, F6E2, F9E1, F10E1. Is there some sort of reset I have to do? This one has my head shaking.
 

rickgburton

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After the last error code, interval 21 is a 10 second pause. The Hi-Temp led will be on. Press the Hi-Temp key to clear the error codes. The Hi-Temp LED will blink twice to indicate the error codes have been cleared. The common denominator between errors 6-2, 9-1, 9-4, and 10-1 is a faulty drive circuit on the control board:

 

carlilecb

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Thanks, Rick. I did run the machine on a normal cycle. Got no water, no washing sound, but the dryer element came on after about a hour or so. Would appear to be that board, wouldn't it? I guess my diverter and water valve might have been ok. At the price for the board and the parts I put in, I would be better off replacing the machine. They don't seem to make them to last anymore. This one is 6 years old. Appreciate all the help
 

rickgburton

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Sounds like the board. If you purchased the water valve and diverter through a link on this site, you can return them for a full refund less shipping.
carlilecb said:
At the price for the board and the parts I put in, I would be better off replacing the machine.
Anytime you start replacing parts without checking them there's always a risk of an expensive repair. For the water valve, measure the resistance of the solenoid 890Ω to 1090Ω or check for 120 VAC at the coil when it should be filling. The diverter can be checked in diagnostic mode interval 10. Before replacing the water valve and diverter you might have been better off replacing the machine for the price of the control board but now you're past the point of no return. If you replace the machine now, you're out the price of a water valve and diverter and your time plus the cost of a new machine. If you replace the control you're out the price of a water valve, diverter and control and your time.
 

Jake

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Wait,

This model has the door vent that shorts out and causes all kinds of weird issues, before you toss it, disconnected all the wires to the door vent and then start a normal load and see if its back to normal.

Look here:

Your model uses the exact same door vent. If it runs through a complete cycle and everything is back to normal, then order and replace the door vent assembly.

Here it is for your model you can order:
WPW10469574 Vent


To access the vent assembly you will need a T-15 torx screwdriver: Remove 4 screws (long) across top of door, then remove 10 screws (short) on the sides, then the outer door panel pulls off.

Jake
 

carlilecb

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Jake,
I disconnected the door vent. It seems to go through the cycle, but still no water or washing action. When I open the door, it is warm inside even when I selected normal wash. I did unplug both leads from the door vent. Was I supposed to leave the one on the bottom connected (not the burnt orange color connector)? If it doesn't matter, it looks like the motherboard is shot. I appreciate the help from both of you. This dishwasher lasted almost 6 years, but I think all my problems began when the cup handle broke and wedged under the LSA and wouldn't allow it to turn. Thoughts?
 

Jake

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Leave ALL the electrical connectors off the door vent assembly.:)

Jake
 

carlilecb

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That's what I did. It would act like it was running a cycle but no water and no movement of the LSA. Guess I have a shot motherboard. Thanks for the quick response.
 

Jake

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Yes, I agree too, bad main control board, just wanted you to try that be before you bought a new dishwasher.:)

Jake
 
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