FIXED 665.12793K311 wont fill, makes strange noise, will drain

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themow

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Location
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Model Number
665.12793K311
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
1-5 years
Dispenser door will not open
Will not fill
Makes a strange motor noise from underneath.
Machine unplugged and connectors still plugged to board
Spray arm motor(some models)
P8-6 to P4-1 open
P8-1 to P4-1 open

Diverter
P7-6 to P4-1 open

Not sure how to test fill. Float switch clicks

wash and drain motors test within range stated on sheet.

Did not test for proper incoming voltage. Where should I test for voltage on the board?

Replaced vent fan last year and checked it again, its fine
Thanks
 
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rickgburton

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Run the service diagnostics and check for error codes. Where is the noise coming from exactly?
 

themow

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errors 9-4 9-1 10--1 and one more that i cant make out due to a damaged lcd
Pulled the inlet valve connector and put my test leads into the connector and ran a rinse. 12v ac?

As far as the noise, I pulled the bottom panel off, cant be sure where its coming from. Its definitely not the front pump which is the drain I believe. Its behind that. Some type of pump is running. I still need to verify voltage to the board.
 

Jake

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Hi,

Rick is out of town today.

Check your float, its inside the front of the tub on the left or right side. Remove any items stuck under the float. Verify that the float moves freely up and down and you hear the “click” of the float switch contacts.

Remove the lower access panel and remove the water inlet valve electrical connector and put your meter leads in it, then start a new cycle and see if your meter reads 120 volts after the cycle starts, if not, the control board is the problem if your float is not stuck UP and your float switch ohm tests good.

When the float is down, the float switch will be closed, which is continuity and should send 120 volts to the fill valve. Ohm test your float switch for continuity when the button on it is pushed in.

If meter DOES read 120 volts after you start a new cycle and no water is coming in, then your water inlet valve is bad.

Here's the water inlet valve for your model:
W10872255 Valve-Inlt


This video shows you how to access it: Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve Video

If meter DOES NOT read 120 volts after you start a new cycle at the water inlet valve electrical connector, then your control board is bad.

Here's the control board for your model you can order:
W10866117 Cntrl-Elec


Jake
 

themow

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20190422_101601.jpg

Found these wires that melted into the black sheet thats glued to the door. The insulation on the wires is intact but looks like they melted the black plastic that lines the door.
Im reluctant to replace the computer in this thing. The failed fan made the whole thing act crazy last year and I feel like other component failures do the same thing. Plus what is getting these wires so hot.

Confirmed that theres 120vac coming into the control.

Will test fill switch when I get home.
 

themow

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Float switch tests fine
As stated above the fill valve has only 12vac going to it when it should be filling. It has 14k ohm if i remember correctly

Some further testing on the board. The p6 section is the fill valve.
When the valve should be receiving power, the circuit board has 120v at each of the 4 p terminals to ground. I think they feed directly to the valve which only has 12v. Am I missing something or does this sound like a bad wire or connection? I am going to try to trace and test the wires.
 
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Jake

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Sounds like a broken wire then from the control board to the fill valve.

Yes, check your wires from the control board to the fill valve and let us know what you find.

Jake
 

themow

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20190423_105738.jpg

Looking for confirmation on my tests. p6-3 to p6-6 should read 120vac when the cycle starts and it would be filling. Because it does not, It reads less than 1vac Door switch is good, float switch is good.
Does this narrow it down to the controller?
Fill valve Resistance from p6-3 to p6-6 is 1380 Ohms which is out of spec by 300 Ohms.
 

Jake

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Does this narrow it down to the controller?
Yes, you definity have a bad control board.

Jake
 

themow

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well it's fixed. The spray arm motor was bad (tested open) and the computer was also bad. If my memory serves me correctly, the spray arm motor was bad first and I might not have realized it. Wonder if it had any part of the computer dying. Either way, I'm back up and running. Thanks!
 

Jake

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Yes, I wonder that myself.

Do you mean the wash motor was bad too?

Here's the wash motor for your model:
W11113839 Wash Motor


Jake
 

chinmayhegde

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Hi All,
Not sure if it is ok to post in an old thread, but it seems like I have the exact same problem on the same model. The dishwasher won't fill and makes strange noises during the cycle. It did run through diagnostics and got the following error codes: F9E1 - diverter can't find position, F9E4 - Lower Spray Arm Error, and if i remember correctly F6E2 - Inlet Water - Fill valve electrical problem. If tested the loads at the control board, and the fill valve looks good (though reads a tad high in resistance just like the original poster) as well as the diverter and dispenser, but the lower spray arm motor is reading open. To me, this points to the control board being bad, since none of the triac loads work, but also the lower spray arm motor (which there seems to be one from what I can tell so far - it just says "some models").

So, all that being said, I do have a few questions:
1. The lower spray arm does not turn freely - is this indicative of a problem other than those that I described?
2. What exactly is the part number for the lower spray arm motor? Is that that wash motor that Jake posted? There doesn't seem to be a "Spray Arm Motor" listed in any of the parts diagrams that I could find.

Thanks in advance!

Also - just to clarify slightly - the two smaller arms on either end of the lower control arm spin normally, but the larger assembly does not.
 
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chinmayhegde

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Ok - upon further inspection - it seems that the 3 red wires plugged into the control panel that are for the spray arm motor are plugged into the same housing as the diverter motor - does this mean I should go ahead and replace that? Would those wires plugged into the control panel be present at all if there was no spray arm motor?

Thanks again!
 

Jake

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Hi, I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below. Do you hear the diverter motor running when it's in the diagnostics mode?

F9E1= Diverter can't find Position
--->Corroded or loose connection in diverter sensor/motor circuit.

1. Check operation in Service Diagnostics Cycle. Listen for CAM clicking as it rotates or inspect shaft with mirror to see if rotating during diverter interval.
If rotating, then likely the sensor circuit.

2. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power and check connections/parts in Diverter Sensor and Motor Circuit with meter. Fix/replace connections/parts.
3. Inspect diverter sensor for evidence of water or contaminants. If yes, replace.

--->Mechanical binding of diverter shaft/disc.
Check operation of diverter motor during diagnostics. Inspect diverter shaft with mirror. If motor appears to be on (vibrates, hums), but you see limited rotation, then replace diverter and seal.

Watch this video to make sure your diverter disc didn't break or slip out of place either:

--->Open fuse on control to diverter motor.
--->Diverter Motor Drive Circuit on the control.
Refer to “Meter Check of Loads” section and “Control Pinout” diagram.

Yes, The Wash pump diverter motor, which Also drives lower wash arm assembly:
Diverter Motor W10843811


Jake
 

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chinmayhegde

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Jake,
Thanks for your response! I ran the service cycle again and could not hear any noise from the diverter, though it is difficult to tell which diagnostic stage it is in as the LEDs don't seem to match the tech sheet. Either that or it gets stuck and never advances past a certain point. The heater did turn on at the end, which is one of the last parts of the cycle, but no error codes popped up at the end, only the begining.
However, if the Triac fuse is blown, which I believe it to be as the fill valve and dispenser also don't function, then even if the diverter motor was good, wouldn't it be non-functional anyway because of the fuse?
 

Jake

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Correct.

Now your model has the door vent that has been a problem child that could cause this problem you are having now.

Disconnect all the wire connectors to your door vent and see if it runs through a complete cycle. Then it should ALSO run through the complete diagnostics cycle too.:)

Start reading what bigbuck said at post#18 here:

Your model uses the exact same door vent. If it runs through a complete cycle and everything is back to normal, then order and replace the door vent assembly.

Here it is for your model you can order:
WPW10469574 Vent


To access the vent assembly you will need a T-15 torx screwdriver: Remove 4 screws (long) across top of door, then remove 10 screws (short) on the sides, then the outer door panel pulls off.

Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

chinmayhegde

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Jake,

Thanks for the update. I will give it a try even though my symptoms seem different that the details in that thread. Also, I did hear the vent motor running during the diagnostics cycle, and the heater did go on at the end, which is one of the last steps, so it seems to get through the diagnostics cycle to some degree. However, there were no error codes at the end, only at the begining (though it did beep at the end of the cycle), and the LEDs listed on the tech sheet that are supposed to change throughout the diagnostics cycle to indicate which step it is on did not seem to match what was on the tech sheet. Other than that the diagnostics routine did seem to be doing something, it just didn't match exactly what seemed to be indicated on the tech sheet. But, as I had never run the diagnostics previously when the unit was working, it is hard for me to know exactly how it should sound anyway :).
So, I'll give unplugging the vent motor a shot and let you know, thanks again!
 

Jake

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Yes, try it with the door vent wires removed.

If no change, then its the control board that's bad if your not getting 120 volts to the water inlet valve and your float is down and float switch ohm tests good.

You can order the control board from my post #4 above.

Jake
 

chinmayhegde

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Ok - I unplugged the vent motor and had the same behavior in both the diagnostics cycle and a normal cycle. I also checked the resistance for the float switch and it was correct (essentially 0 resistance). So, that seems to confirm the control board is bad. Is there any reason to not order the diverter motor as well, since that is the only triac load (spray arm motor) that tests completely open (on both coils)?
Thanks again!
 
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