FIXED 665.12793K311 wont fill, makes strange noise, will drain

themow

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2016
Messages
16
Location
United States
Model
665.12793K311
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
1-5 years
Dispenser door will not open
Will not fill
Makes a strange motor noise from underneath.
Machine unplugged and connectors still plugged to board
Spray arm motor(some models)
P8-6 to P4-1 open
P8-1 to P4-1 open

Diverter
P7-6 to P4-1 open

Not sure how to test fill. Float switch clicks

wash and drain motors test within range stated on sheet.

Did not test for proper incoming voltage. Where should I test for voltage on the board?

Replaced vent fan last year and checked it again, its fine
Thanks
 
Last edited:

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Messages
33,163
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Run the service diagnostics and check for error codes. Where is the noise coming from exactly?
 

themow

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2016
Messages
16
Location
United States
errors 9-4 9-1 10--1 and one more that i cant make out due to a damaged lcd
Pulled the inlet valve connector and put my test leads into the connector and ran a rinse. 12v ac?

As far as the noise, I pulled the bottom panel off, cant be sure where its coming from. Its definitely not the front pump which is the drain I believe. Its behind that. Some type of pump is running. I still need to verify voltage to the board.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
99,316
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

Rick is out of town today.

Check your float, its inside the front of the tub on the left or right side. Remove any items stuck under the float. Verify that the float moves freely up and down and you hear the “click” of the float switch contacts.

Remove the lower access panel and remove the water inlet valve electrical connector and put your meter leads in it, then start a new cycle and see if your meter reads 120 volts after the cycle starts, if not, the control board is the problem if your float is not stuck UP and your float switch ohm tests good.

When the float is down, the float switch will be closed, which is continuity and should send 120 volts to the fill valve. Ohm test your float switch for continuity when the button on it is pushed in.

If meter DOES read 120 volts after you start a new cycle and no water is coming in, then your water inlet valve is bad.

Here's the water inlet valve for your model:
W10872255 Valve-Inlt


This video shows you how to access it: Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve Video

If meter DOES NOT read 120 volts after you start a new cycle at the water inlet valve electrical connector, then your control board is bad.

Here's the control board for your model you can order:
W10866117 Cntrl-Elec


Jake
 

themow

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2016
Messages
16
Location
United States
20190422_101601.jpg

Found these wires that melted into the black sheet thats glued to the door. The insulation on the wires is intact but looks like they melted the black plastic that lines the door.
Im reluctant to replace the computer in this thing. The failed fan made the whole thing act crazy last year and I feel like other component failures do the same thing. Plus what is getting these wires so hot.

Confirmed that theres 120vac coming into the control.

Will test fill switch when I get home.
 

themow

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2016
Messages
16
Location
United States
Float switch tests fine
As stated above the fill valve has only 12vac going to it when it should be filling. It has 14k ohm if i remember correctly

Some further testing on the board. The p6 section is the fill valve.
When the valve should be receiving power, the circuit board has 120v at each of the 4 p terminals to ground. I think they feed directly to the valve which only has 12v. Am I missing something or does this sound like a bad wire or connection? I am going to try to trace and test the wires.
 
Last edited:

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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McMullen Valley, Arizona
Sounds like a broken wire then from the control board to the fill valve.

Yes, check your wires from the control board to the fill valve and let us know what you find.

Jake
 

themow

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Joined
Feb 12, 2016
Messages
16
Location
United States
20190423_105738.jpg

Looking for confirmation on my tests. p6-3 to p6-6 should read 120vac when the cycle starts and it would be filling. Because it does not, It reads less than 1vac Door switch is good, float switch is good.
Does this narrow it down to the controller?
Fill valve Resistance from p6-3 to p6-6 is 1380 Ohms which is out of spec by 300 Ohms.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Does this narrow it down to the controller?
Yes, you definity have a bad control board.

Jake
 

themow

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2016
Messages
16
Location
United States
well it's fixed. The spray arm motor was bad (tested open) and the computer was also bad. If my memory serves me correctly, the spray arm motor was bad first and I might not have realized it. Wonder if it had any part of the computer dying. Either way, I'm back up and running. Thanks!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, I wonder that myself.

Do you mean the wash motor was bad too?

Here's the wash motor for your model:
W11113839 Wash Motor


Jake
 
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