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FIXED 665.13073K211 Kenmore dishwasher heating element not working

jokken

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2016
Messages
32
Location
NJ
Model Number
665.13073K211
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
More than 10 years
hi all,

I have a kenmore dishwasher 665.13073K211 which I have posted on here about before. I now do not have a working heating element. the dishwasher uses hot water so the wash quality is hit or miss. but opening it mid-cycle I can tell it is just not hot enough in there.

during the wash I only see 14 volts at either end of the thermister, and at either end of the element. the voltage drops to like 6-10 volts when the pump to spray the water turns on and off
the heating element and the thermistor test good with the ohm setting on my multimeter
I can jump the power connector's hot and neutral thru the heating element and it gets hot, so this seems to prove out the thermistor, and the heating element itself. I was surprised I had to jump both hot an neutral and not just one or the other.
i purchased a used, but tested, main control board on ebay hoping that replacing the board would help, but it didn't. no signed of damage was seen on the original board :(
on a desperate whim I replaced the turbidity sensor and that didn't help either :( :(
each wire on the cable to the turbidity sensor tested .1 ohms.

I admit I am a bit of a hack, I'm just doing what I can think of doing. please offer me comments/ suggestions what could be wrong!

is there a way to activate the heating element in a test/debug mode on this unit?

thanks!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
113,138
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Its very simple, if the heating element and hi-limit thermostat ohm test good, then the only part left is the control board.

I trust no parts on ebay. So I'd first check all your wires from the control board to the high-limit thermostat and to the heating element to see if you have any shorts or breaks in the wires. If none found then it has to be a bad control board, that's the only part left in the heating circuit.

Here's the control board for your model:
Control Board W10804111


The control board is this model is very inexpensive compared to some I've seen.

Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

jokken

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2016
Messages
32
Location
NJ
thanks Jake, looks like I'll have to spring for the new one then (i was trying to avoid since I wasn't sure of anything)
but your right $77 isn't bad compared to other places. also I wrote thermistor but I meant high-limit thermostat.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
113,138
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, sounds good, let us know how it goes.

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
113,138
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
I can jump the power connector's hot and neutral thru the heating element and it gets hot, so this seems to prove out the thermistor, and the heating element itself. I was surprised I had to jump both hot an neutral and not just one or the other.
I'm not sure what you did there, can you provide more detail?

Also, Try this First--->Run the SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS CYCLE, and let it run all the way through to reset it back to default.

Entry sequence: Press any 3 keys in the sequence 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3 with no more than 1 second between key presses. NOTE: Some models have replaced the “Clean” LED with “Completed.”
The Service Diagnostics Cycle will start when the door is closed.

--->Invoking Service Diagnostics clears all status and last run information from memory and restores defaults. It also forces the next cycle to be a sensor calibration cycle.

LET IT RUN ALL THE WAY THROUGH: Service diagnostic cycle will take about 23 minutes.

Do that, and report back if the heating element is working.

Jake
 

jokken

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2016
Messages
32
Location
NJ
thanks again Jake! the heating element worked during the diag cycle! and i have the burns on my fingers to prove it! (stupid me) There were a number of codes shown at the beginning of the diag process. one of which was 7-1 the heating element. so it seems the heating circuit had been disabled.

with the diag cycle complete, the codes are cleared and the system is reset to defaults, and the heating element does come on during the regular cycle now!

i do have concern left though, since it does not come on during all the parts of the cycle I expect. so I have to figure out if something is wrong or my expectations are wrong. like I expect it to heat the water after the soap dispenses but it does not

thanks again
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
113,138
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, now that everything is reset the heater should come on fine now during the cycle when its suppose to.

Just start a new cycle and let it run all the way through and see how it does.

Jake
 

jokken

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2016
Messages
32
Location
NJ
it is doing great! I am on my second load and the heater is now on when needed during the cycles. I have a voltmeter on the heater circuit and am watching it. It is now reading 120v at the right times during the cycles (only 8-22 volts otherwise when it is off).

I did have to fool it a little because my house water seems to be warm enough (~105 degrees) not need the heater during the main wash cycle (after the detergent dispense). So when it was filling with water, right before the detergent dispense, I put 3/4 a gallon of cold tap water in (obviously, this stops the fill cycle when the water level switch trips). About 1 min after the main wash cycle started the heater turned on and warmed the water to ~105 degrees.

Later during the cycles "HEATED WASH" and "THERMAL HOLD 137-140 degrees" the heater also turned on.
And of course, it turned on at the end for the "Dry" cycle, when the heater really gets a workout.

The diag papers attached to the kick plate were a help here. Of course, finding them was prompted by Jake's post about the DIAGNOSTICS CYCLE. Jake, do you have a link to a digital copy of the diag papers I found under the kick plate? The bottom line here was Jakes advice about running the diag cycle which cleared the errors, reset system to defaults is what got my heater working again. Why did the heater circuit get errored out in the first place, and will it occur again? I don't know, and I hope not! :)

I will note don't touch the heating element. When the heater is on during a wash cycle and water is splashing around it doesn't get too hot to the touch. But when it is on during the dry cycle it will burn you good and blistery. :/

Also I was surprised, all I read about dishwashing detergent needing high temperature water to work right (120-150 degrees) I was surprised to find that the main wash cycle was only at 105 degrees, and the cycle where the 137-140 degree temps are finally reached is at the end and by that time the detergent is all rinsed and drained away already. But then after looking thru the manual I realized that is what the two other options on this model were actually for.
High Temp: raises the main wash cycle from 105 degrees to 130 degrees.
Sani Rinse: raises the main wash cycle from 105 degrees to 120 degrees and the final rinse from 140 to 155 degrees. This sanitizes the dishes (I've read this is for like if someone has the flu in your house)

thanks Jake, once again because of this forum and guys like you I think I'm set for another few months with my 10-20 year old appliances!
 
Last edited:

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
113,138
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Excellent @jokken glad to hear its running great again.(y)

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 
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