FIXED 665.13693N411 Kenmore ultra wash dishwasher not working correctly

scottkeltner

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I’m also not sure how to read these codes compared to the chart. F6, E4, And F7. I’m also concerned about the float switch. When should that switch be active and not active? I’ve got the washer temporarily positioned and it’s not EXACTLY level either.
 

Jake

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I’ve got the washer temporarily positioned and it’s not EXACTLY level either.
I don't understand what that means?

Where is the dishwasher located? It has to be level when your testing and running it.

Jake
 

scottkeltner

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I had it pulled out slightly from under the cabinet and it was not exactly level. Close to it but not. I leveled it up and repeated the tests with the same results. Still no answer to my problems though.
 

scottkeltner

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I am now focused on the turbidity sensor. It is the ONE part of the assembly that I had to reuse from the old one, due to a wire harness change. The old one has a black side and a clear side. The new one has both clear sides. I'm wondering what this part does, and if it is bad could it be causing my problems? Does the fact that it is one of the ONLY parts I have not replaced, combined with the error codes and other symptoms make sense that it could be bad?

IMG_8779.jpg
 

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rickgburton

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There are several ways to check the OWI sensor. One is to disconnect the P12 connector from the board and measure the resistance of the NTC sensor across P12-1 and P12-3. At 77*F (room temperature) you should see 46K to 52K ohms (46,000 to 52,000 ohms). You can also check the OWI sensor in diagnostic mode. Run the diagnostics again. The diagnostic cycle starts on interval 26 and ends on interval 1. Interval 21 is a ten second pause. Press HI TEMP key in this interval to clear the error history.

The OWI sensor checks for the presence of water during the 5 sec. pause in interval 16 and turns on the Clean LED in interval 15 if water detected. (Should be on)

The OWI sensor checks for the presence of bulk soil during the pause interval 13 and turn on the Clean LED in interval 12 if bulk soil detected. (Should not be on)

Machine drains until OWI sensor sees the presence of air or a maximum of 1:52 during interval 5 and turn on the Clean LED in interval 4 if air detected. (Should be on)
 

scottkeltner

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Thanks for the quick response. With the pins faced towards me and the wires aiming down, left to right 1-6. 1 and 3 were 70K-73K. 4 and 6 were out of limits. I measure both to make sure I had the right pins. Is that far enough out of spec to be considered bad?

Thank you very Much!

Scott

IMG_8785.jpg
 
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rickgburton

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scottkeltner

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Diagnostic cycle procedure

Hi,

Anytime you replace a part on these new dishwashers you always have to run the SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS CYCLE, and let it run all the way through to reset it back to default.

Entry sequence: Press any 3 keys in the sequence 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3 with no more than 1 second between key presses. NOTE: Some models have replaced the “Clean” LED with “Completed.”
The Service Diagnostics Cycle will start when the door is closed.

■ Invoking Service Diagnostics clears all status and last run information from memory and restores defaults. It also forces the next cycle to be a sensor calibration cycle.

LET IT RUN ALL THE WAY THROUGH: Service diagnostic cycle will take about 23 minutes.

Do that now, and report back.:)

Jake
The part will arrive today. I will replace the turbidity sensor. I'm a bit unclear as to how to do the service diagnostics cycle. I have done it, and it ran all the way through, then gave me some error codes. The question is, do I need to watch the dishwasher display the entire time, so that after each cycle it checks I can see if it has an error code? Or, can I start it up and leave for 30 minutes then come back to see the status of the tests? Is there a process to clear "history codes" if it has a feature like that, or is that not necessary? Thanks for all the help!

Scott
 

scottkeltner

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Well I've now replaced the OWI sensor. I still am getting no wash arm movement. I replaced the sensor, put it in diagnostic mode. It ran for about 20-25 minutes then beeped. The vent ran for at least another 20 minutes before I finally got impatient and opened the door. I then ran a 1 hour cycle and after about 20 minutes it had filled, drained, filled but no washer arm movement still. I opened the door, then cleared the cycle and let it drain. I again ran the diagnostic cycle and got the following errors.

FA, E3 - Cannot find this error in the manual
F6, E4 - Float switch open.
F7, E1 - Disconnected or damaged flow meter

Am I not waiting long enough in the diagnostic mode? Do I need to wait until the "completed" LED comes on? Any clue what FA, E3 is? Am I reading the manual correctly for the error codes I'm getting?

Thanks again for the help.
 

rickgburton

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Press any 3 keys in the sequence 1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3 with no more than 1 second between key presses.

NOTE: Some models have replaced the “Clean” LED with “Completed.”

Service diagnostic cycle will take about 23 minutes and has 26 intervals. The diagnostic cycle starts with interval 26 and ends on interval 1.

Interval 26 turns on all the LED’s as a display test. Intervals 252423 and 22 are for error codes. The Clean (or Completed) LED will flash the error codes in two parts. The Clean LED will first flash the function code, pause for 2 seconds then flash the problem code, pause for 5 seconds then repeat three times (unless advanced by the Start key to the next interval). If there are no error codes the Clean LED will stay on solid for 5 seconds.

Interval 21 is a 10 second pause. The Hi-Temp LED will be on. Press the Hi-Temp key to clear the error codes. The Hi-Temp LED will blink twice to indicate the errors have been cleared.

Intervals 20 – 3 is the service diagnostic cycle. Intervals 2 and 1 are for error codes found during the diagnostic cycle
 

scottkeltner

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I actually have a display on the top of the keypad that reads the letters and numbers of the error codes to me. No flashing light at all. Do I need to stand and watch the diagnostic cycle, and clear those codes in order for this to go back to normal operation?
 

scottkeltner

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I just ran the diagnostic cycle again. Every time the High Temp LED came on I pressed it. I never got two flashes back when I did that. It beeped at me, then the display flashed E-, F- a couple of times and now I can just hear the vent slowly venting. No LEDs are on at all now. How do I know if it has actually completed the diagnostic cycle? How long will that vent run until it shuts off?
 

rickgburton

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Go back to post #18. Click on the tech sheet link that bigbuck attached. Scroll down to page 3, Service Diagnostic Cycle. The top half of the page is the interval chart for the service diagnostics. The left side column divides the test into three sections LED's, OWI sensor checks, and loads. However, the most important section is the "Service Diagnostics Cycle Notes". At the bottom of interval column are numbers to indicate what the machine should be doing. In "Service Diagnostics Cycle Notes" look for the corresponding number.
 

scottkeltner

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So if I'm understanding this correctly, during intervals 10,11,13,14, and 19 the diverter motor should be running until it meets its intended position. However during interval 14 it should run for the duration of the 2 minute cycle? If that is the case I know my diverter motor is not turning the lower spray arm. It is always in the same position that I leave it in when I close the door. Since the entire assembly has been replaced, I'm assuming the diverter motor is good. What could be causing it to not work? Thanks for the help!
 

scottkeltner

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Can I verify that by measuring voltage on the wires that go into the diverter? It’s either two reds or two blues. What should the voltage be?
 

rickgburton

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120 VAC across the two blue wires when the diverter motor should be on or measure the resistance of the motor (1100 - 1400 ohms). If you go to page 5 and look at the strip circuit for the diverter valve you'll see everything is marked for you.
 

scottkeltner

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I’m getting about 8-10 Volts AC during the majority of the diagnostic cycle. NEVER 120. Does that mean the fuse and relay are good, just needs the new board?
 
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