FIXED 665.13693N411 Kenmore ultra wash dishwasher not working correctly

scottkeltner

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The control board arrived today and I installed it. I ran it through a service cycle and got no errors. I then ran it through a normal wash. I let it go for about a half our. No luck. The lower arm is still not spinning. I then ran it through another service cycle with my meter on the two blue wires near the control board. This time I DID get 117-120 volts during the cycles when the divertor was supposed to be spinning. I could hear the divertor clicking as well. However, after opening the dishwasher when the diagnostic cycle ended, the lower arm was in the same position and had not moved. I've now replaced every part on the dishwasher, with the exception of the display board and the vent fan. I am getting no errors when I run the diagnostic cycle. I'm wondering about the little plastic dishwasher pump diverter disc that goes on top of the divertor motor. It has a small hole in it. It only seems to go on one way due to its shape where the rod feeds through. I'm wondering though if it's possible that this is on wrong? I've tried it various ways, only seems to go on one way.

Should the lower spray arm end up in a different position after running the diagnostic cycle? Seems sill to think it would end up in the same spot every time. Thanks all for the help!

The vent fan runs for a long time when the diagnostic cycle is done. 15-30 minutes. That seems odd to me as well.

Scott
 
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rickgburton

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Scott, try disconnecting the vent fan and then run a cycle and see what happens.
 

scottkeltner

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Ok, ran the 1 hour wash after unplugging the vent. (2 different 2 brown wire connectors. Lower arm did not move at all during that wash.
 

Jake

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It sounds like a defective pump/motor assembly, where did you buy it at?

Here's the pump/motor assembly for your model: W10902323 PUMP&MOTOR

Jake
 

scottkeltner

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Bought from sears parts online. Was really hoping that wouldn’t be a problem seeing as it was brand new. What causes that arm to turn and spray water? Is it just pressure created from the pump?
 

bigbuck

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Does any of the arms spray water? If not I would be be checking for 120 volts at the wash pump motor while in diagnoses mode or when the wash pump motor should be running. Recheck all connections.
 

scottkeltner

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I will do that tonight. I checked voltage on the diverter motor after replacing the board and had 120, I didn't before that. Which are the wires for the pump motor? Thank you!
 

bigbuck

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If possible see if you can get a voltage reading at the wash pump motor directly. Looking for 120 volts when the motor is suppose to be running. Watch your meter probles in at the motor connection that they do not touch each other as they will be close to each other. Also double check that wash motor connection there maybe you did not push it into the motor properly.
 

Jake

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Yes, do what bigbuck mentioned.

Look at post #7 here:

I'd first check to see if your getting 120 volts to the wash motor when it should be in the wash cycle. His Kenmore 665 uses the exact same wash motor yours does.

Take the wire connector off the wash motor and use your multimeter to see if yours is getting 120 volts when it should be washing, if so and it's not running have Sears exchange your motor/pump assembly for another new one.

When I worked at Sears, it was very common to get defective parts from them, I also had to re-order many parts many times to fix my Sears customers appliances.

That's why I never recommend buying Sears parts, its very rare to get defective parts through our two part suppliers AppliancePartsPros and RepairClinic.

Jake
 

rickgburton

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The pump forces water into the spray arms. The holes on top of the arm do the cleaning and the holes on the ends and bottom turn it.
 

scottkeltner

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Ok, so the diverter motor does NOT spin the lower wash arm? The diverter motor just moves the diverter motor disc to direct water? The water pressure from the pump actually causes the arms to spin?
 

scottkeltner

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I just tested the two light blue wires during a diagnostics cycle. I’m only getting 5-6 vac on them. I also retested the two dark blue wires going to the diverter. 4-5 vac on those. Those were at 120 yesterday when I tested them after installing the new board. Now they are bad again? Tell me the control board wasn’t bad out of the box too?!?!? Is something causing the control board to go bad?
 

scottkeltner

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Also getting FA E3 error now. The two pump wires sit at 3-4 vac even when the pump is not plugged it and running through a test cycle. I placed my leads right at the end of the wire run just before the connection to the pump.
 
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