The control board LOOKED all good packaging wise. I feel like it’s a bad board too but when I initially installed it, it DID fix the voltage problem to the diverter. But then that failed again after a day as well. As if something is causing the board to go bad.
So I have now ordered another entire pump assembly and control board. The pump has arrived, but the control board has not yet. When these arrive, I will install both of them. Once that is done, do I need to run the diagnostic cycle through one time before attempting to run a wash? At this point I feel like I should just have bought a new dishwasher, however, it's more personal now I'm just determined to fix the damn thing! Thanks all for the help, I will keep you posted.
I have the same dishwasher and read the whole thread. I feel I have the same issue, it drains, it lets water in, but the pump does not come on. We noticed the soap on the bottom pan not dissolved. I was hopping for a resolution but there was no final "yes that did it". I don't want to spend $200 on a $400 dollar appliance........
Just finished the diagnostic cycle and started the 1 hour cycle and noticed that it is spraying water. I opened the door and there was spray.
I tried the quick rinse but I did not hear the pump. I will attempt the 1 hour again and see.
Can't duplicate it. But I did notice that the float that connects to lever and then switch never disengages, the water level never gets high enough.
Could the water inlet valve go bad by not allowing enough water in? Some gets in but not enough to move the float.
The water fill is timed. The float switch is a safety device that breaks the circuit to the fill valve. That way if the drain pump stops working or the drain hose gets clogged, you don't get a double fill and end up with water all over the floor.
My kenmore dishwasher is only 14 months old. The timer & leds function as they always have, and the water fills & drains correctly. Unfortunately the actual washing has stopped and spray arms don't operate. Sometimes they do when it first starts and it sounds normal, but after the first drain...
I'd first check to see if your getting 120 volts to the wash motor when it should be in the wash cycle.
Take the wire connector off the wash motor and use your multimeter to see if yours is getting 120 volts when it should be washing.
It seems your wash motor is intermittently working SD which is a nightmare to nail down, until it stops working completely. SD when you do NOT hear the wash motor running after it fills, that's the time to check for 120 volts at the wash motor.
I checked the voltage. I attached pictures of the two places I checked. Both read 120v during the quick rinse cycle. What do you guys think?
I checked the rear, what I am amusing is the wash motor. and I also checked the voltage on the blue wires going to (??? I don't know what that is), both had 120v during the beginning of the cycle.
My wife is pushing me to buy a new one. But I'm not ready to spend $400 on a new one if I can fix it for $175. Am I correct to say that if there is power getting to the motor than that is a good thing and shows that the problem is the motor and not the board?