665.13742K603 No lights, no start, but power at the junction box

pjstock

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Model Number
665.13742K603
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
6-10 years
DW suddenly failed. No Start.
There is power at the junction box, so power to the machine itself. But nothing happens when I punch the START button on the face plate. No lights at all.

Does that sound like a catastrophic failure of the circuit board? (which I bet would not be worth replacing. I would just replace the unit itself with a good 2nd hand one.)

or is there some simple (or simplish) further electrical investigation I can do, between the power supply junction point and the rest of the machine.

If it were anything else (cars, electronics, etc.) , I would guess "fuse" but I doubt there is a fuse in a DW.
 

pjstock

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Thanks Jeff.
Should a standard continuity test "prove" this fuse? Or does it only kick.in under load (or heat? what does the "thermal" part mean?)
Peter
 

jeff1

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Should a standard continuity test "prove" this fuse?
Yes.
Open = bad.
Closed = good.

jeff.
 

pjstock

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Great tip (as always) the Fuse seems shot. I'll replace it and see what happens. (though I wonder why a fuse like this would fail. Does it normally only only go OPEN when things overheat? when it cools down, would it normally then go CLOSED. Or once Open it is blown and shot)
 

jeff1

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It is a one time deal....once it opens it stays open.
Can fail when it gets too hot, on it's own, loose wire ( install the whole kit! ).

jeff.
 

pjstock

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Solved

well, that was easy. many thanks again. (donation has been sent.)
I swapped in a few fuse kit and she's running again.

Though I have a followup question. Why would the thermal fuse blow? does that suggest a wiring problem elsewhere in the DW? Or does Stuff Just Happen sometimes.?
 

pjstock

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Yea, darn, that fuse blew again.
so something is amiss.
anything else I can check (though I can't keep swapping in $40 fuses). or should I just be getting a replacement. Good used replacements are not expensive $75-100.
 

jeff1

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A copy:

The first thing I would inspect is the heating element for damage that may beginning to short out. Also make sure it is not coated with calcium.
If the element checks out good, a failing motor could blow the fuse.
If the motor checks out, look for shorts in the wiring both in the door and under the unit.

Make sure ALL the wires from the kit where also replaced at the same time as the thermal fuse.

jeff.
 

pjstock

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There were only two wires in the kit.
Which attached to the old fuse wires via a connector block.

And two plastic zip ties.

Like this:
poguesupply.com/whirlpool-w10258275-dishwasher-bimetal-thermal-fuse-kit
 

jeff1

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There were only two wires in the kit.
Which attached to the old fuse wires via a connector block.
Correct, and they where all installed? Sometimes a loose wire connector on the old wires is enough the blow the fuse.
Heating element is next on the hit list.

jeff.
 

pjstock

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I'll work on it offline. But i think I might be in too deep. $40 per fuse to test vvarious theories could get prohibitively expensive fast. Especially when I don't know what I am doing, re further testing.

Inn the meanwhile I grabbed a near new looking GE Profile at the local Habitat Restore for $35. I'll swap that one in
 

jeff1

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Friends don't let friends buy a GE!!

JMO!

jeff.
 

pjstock

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Interesting.
But then these people aren't friends - they are tenants :)
And for $35 and one hour if install time, I have to take.my chances.

Curious (1) - your objection to GE is bases on performance or reliablity?

Curious (2) - what then would your Top 5 recommended brands be?
 

jeff1

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your objection to GE is bases on performance or reliablity?
40 years in appliance repairs.

what then would your Top 5 recommended brands be?
For a d/w, Maytag, Whirlpool would be good bets.

jeff.
 
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