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FIXED 665.15812990 Kenmore Ultra Dishwasher - Wash not filling


Premium Member
Mar 6, 2023
Atlanta, GA
Model Number
Sears Kenmore
More than 10 years
My Kenmore Ultra Wash has had few problems over the years. Suddenly it began leaving residue on the dishes and I believe I have narrowed the problem down to water not filling during at least the rinse cycle. It may not be filling after the first wash cycle. Seems intermittent. Wash cycle seems to work normally, then no water for the rinse. Does this sound like I need to replace the water inlet valve. Perhaps it is failing intermittently?
What I do is take the electrical connector off of the water inlet valve and put my meter probes in each of the two electrical terminals, then start the dishwasher in the rinse cycle and see if your volt meter reads 120 volts, give it a few minutes after you start the dishwasher in the rinse cycle.

If the meter reads 120 volts then that indicates the water inlet valve is the culprit.

Here's the water inlet valve for your model you can order, if needed:
W10844024 Water Inlet Valve

Once you click the link to the water inlet valve there is a video that shows you how to access/replace it.
I finally had a chance to check on this.
I never saw 120v on the meter when connected to the connector's two electrical terminals. When I put the DW into the rinse cycle I initially see 94v. At 2 min 22v for approx 10 sec, then 30v for approx 8 min.
When I put the DW into the rinse cycle I initially see 94v.
That needs to be 120 volts, so the problem is the control board, but its no longer available from the factory.

Here's the control board for your model(video included in part link):
Main Control Board WP8530929
Dishwasher working again. Here's my story in the possibility it helps someone.
I was able to fix the dishwasher with the water inlet valve shown above.

Following the instructions of Jake (above) I tested the circuit for 120V and never saw 120 on my tester. It was a really quick flash on my meter displaying the voltage change, but after watching for 120V many times I determined I didn't see it. Not seeing the 120V indicates the main board is bad; so, I found a main board in ebay (NIB for $143) and installed it. Same problem existing with the new main board.

Back to testing the circuit with the main board installed, I happened to notice that I was seeing 116V on my tester for a split second and decided to buy the water inlet valve and I am delighted to say the DW is back in service. I guess I didn't know I could have attempted to watch 116V or something close to 120V and would likely only had to replace the water inlet valve. I will put my old mainboard in my box of parts and maintain it as a spare.
Many thanks to Jake!
Excellent pauwas, glad to hear the new water inlet valve fixed it.(y)

Thanks for the update!

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