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Thread: RBD305PRS00 Whirlpool Died, was alive, died, now alive again...any tips?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Southern NH
    Posts
    23

    Default RBD305PRS00 Whirlpool Died, was alive, died, now alive again...any tips?

    Model Number: RBD305PRS00
    Brand: Whirlpool
    Age: More than 10 years

    Hi All, my whirlpool gold double oven has been acting up. About a month ago, the display went blank. Pressing buttons on the control panel resulted in one beep, then 3 short beeps, like an error code. I did some research and found a great thread on there about changing out the caps, and checking for broken traces on some large resistors as well as cold solder joints. I asked some questions in the threads I found, but didn't get any responses, maybe because they are so old.

    Anyway, the control board is no longer available. There are services where you can send it out, but the possible fix seemed easy enough, so I went in. I'm good with electronics and circuit boards.

    I replaced the following 5 caps, buying them from Mouser.com:
    C34 & C50: UHE2A101MPD
    C11: UHE1H102MHD6
    C54: ULD1H330MED1TD
    C6: ULD1H2R2MDD1TD

    I also found the very large resistor had lifted, but was still in contact with the trace, so I secured it and put it all back together. The oven fired right up and worked great. For 2 weeks. Then the display went out again. Same result, a single beep and then 3 beeps. That was a couple of days ago. This morning, while in the kitchen (I haven't got back to it), I noticed the display was alive again. WTH. Anyway, it was showing error code E6 F2. I will google this to see what it means.

    But I was able to set the clock (error seemed to clear) and start the ovens. Not sure how long it will last, but either there is a loose connection or possibly the ribbon cable of the membrane panel isn't seated fully (I can check).

    I'm open to any advice or guidance. I hate to throw the ovens away. They are 12 years old, but like new. And my cabinets are only 23.5" deep, and most new ovens seem to require 24", so it makes the project a bit more complicated than just sliding a new one in. Plus, The $2000 for the new oven setup.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Southern NH
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Just thought I'd ping this one and see if anyone had any ideas. It's still running after coming back on 10 days ago.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    McMullen Valley, Arizona
    Posts
    92,903

    Default

    Hi Steve,

    As tech. we just replace the control board, we don't replace components on the board, because these boards don't come with schematics. Usually if you have burnt components on the board, there is a another problem on the board causing them to burn.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Southern NH
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Thanks. The board isn't available any more, which is why I went that route. I also read the the area that looked burned/warmer, is very common. I'll keep my eye on it again, and not question success right now.

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