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Thread: MGDB850YW0 Maytag Bravos XL Gas Dryer F03 E02 error codes

  1. #1
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    Default MGDB850YW0 Maytag Bravos XL Gas Dryer F03 E02 error codes

    Model Number: MGDB850
    Brand: Maytag
    Age: 6-10 years

    Hello to all and Thank You for letting me be in this forum.
    I bought (used) a Maytag Bravos XL Gas Dryer was working good until error code F03 E02 appeared. Now the dryer starts but in 1.5 minutes stops and beeps with this code. Don't know how to reset it or fix it. Any help will be immensely appreciate it.
    Thank You

  2. #2
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    Default Update on F03 E02 dryer codes

    Update:
    The dryer on Air Only (No Heat) doesn't stop but as soon as you engage heat, even if is low heat, then it stops and the error F03 E02 appears again. I found several great videos on line but unfortunately neither mention these codes for the Dryer, only for the washer. So I keep looking and disassemble the front of the dryer and with a multimeter checked the two sensor on the burner, they have continuity (hope I spelled it correctly) and also checked for the two sensor on the blower. One of them don't have continuity and I assumed is broken. Since I'm in the Caribbean (Not USA) parts for some appliances are not easy to get, I found a new thermistor to replace the broken one, although is different that the original which is shaped as a rhomboid and this one is rectangular. Either way, I just connected it hoping that the error codes go away and I did put everything back together, but no luck. The same code is back again F03 E02. I assume it could be something electrical or a short circuit because as soon as I hit heat the dryer stops.

    Also I can't get how to reset the codes on this dryer. Found some instructions on how to pull and clear the codes for the washer but they don't work for the dryer.
    Any inputs are going to be much appreciate it.
    Last edited by Dr.Casti; October 3rd, 2018 at 09:36 AM.

  3. #3
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    Hi,

    I don't have the tech. data sheet for this model, but I will ask our tech bigbuck if he has it.

    Here's the instructions to get at the gas coils, blower wheel, belt, and pulley:

    REMOVING THE FRONT PANEL
    1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
    2. Open the door.
    3. Push on the retaining clips located under top of dryer on the right and left side using a flat object such as a putty knife.
    4. Slowly rotate top backward and lean against wall, or support with a prop rod.
    5. Disconnect the door switch wire harness located on the right side.
    6. Remove the front panel/door assembly by removing the two front cover screws at the top of the panel inside the cabinet, and lifting upward.
    7. Disconnect the moisture sensor connections.
    8. Remove the lint screen.
    9. Remove the lint screen housing by removing the four screws holding the lint screen housing.
    10. Remove the front bulkhead by loosening the upper two screws and removing the lower two screws.

    Then you have access to your gas coils, blower wheel, belt, and pulley.

    Also, On your model you have a belt driven blower wheel, so while your inside the machine check the blower pulley nut to make sure that didn't come loose.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  4. #4
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    Jake: Thank You very much.

    I already have removed the front panel following some instructions from the internet and did checked the blower pulley nut. It's not loose.

    Here is so far what I have done:
    Dryer was converted from NG to LP following the instructions on the kit that came with it. Was working good until a clicked sound and no heat was coming out of the dryer. So this is what I did.
    - Checked the two blower fuses/sensors. One of them, the dryer thermister (part #8577274) didn't have continuity so I replaced it. The other was fine.
    - Checked for the two sensors on the burner (funnel), the thermal cut off was tripped so I reset it according some instructions on google. Now it has continuity. The other was fine.
    - Checked the door sensor, moisture sensor, flame sensor and igniter. They all have continuity.
    - Checked the gas coil valves. Here are the multimeter reading: 1326 and 1404 respectively. I assumed they are good. Right?
    What I haven't done is to clear the codes. I believe that those codes needs to be reset it or cleared in order for the dryer start working good again. But not sure how to do it.

    Thank You again.

  5. #5
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    Default

    here you go.

  6. #6
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bigbuck View Post
    here you go.
    Bigbuck:
    Thank You very much!!!!!!!!!

    Will post results.

  7. #7
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    Yes, thanks bigbuck!

    F3E2=Exhaust Thermistor Shorted

    Indicates that the exhaust thermistor has shorted. Temperature above 250 F (< 500 ohms).

    See TEST #4a: Thermistors, page 15.

    Unplug your machine and Ohm test the exhaust thermistor at room temperature.

    At room temperature or 70*F the thermistor should show between 11.5K and 11.9K ohms (11,500 -11,900 ohms).
    At 80 degrees F. - it should be between 8.5K ohms and 10.5K ohms.

    Here's the exhaust thermistor for your model:
    Thermistor WP8577274


    Ok Dr.Casti, yes let us know what you find.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  8. #8
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    Ok Guys so this is officially R-E-S-O-L-V-E-D! and many thanks to you Jake and Bigbuck.

    Here is what happened:
    Today I received the Thermistor part No.WP8577274 on the mail. First thing I did was checked for continuity with my multimeter. No sound. No nothing. I said WTF?...wait another 10 days for another thermistor to come...no way! (Please, try to figure out my face of desperation). Well, I said. Let's hook it up even if there's no continuity. Don't have anything else more to waste than time. So I did that. Put and hooked the new thermistor, Put everything on the dryer back together and pulled my Tech Sheet that Bigbuck sent.
    I Was looking for the steps in how to get into diagnostics so I can clear the error codes. Remember the F03 E02? Not anymore!!. For my surprise there were No Codes!.
    So like a child opening a Christmas present, I flipped out the sight port cap. Selected a hot cycle and voila! I could see the ignitor alive and the gas flame started burning.
    The Dryer is officially fixed! I couldn't believe my eyes.
    And with this I conclude my journey to the always fascinating but intriguing appliances repair world. But don't want to go without giving you guys Jake and Bigbuck so many thanks. You are really invaluable for us the common-diy-husbands. I know now that my soul can rest and the wife will be happy again. Cheers!
    Last edited by Dr.Casti; October 10th, 2018 at 12:34 PM. Reason: happy

  9. #9
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    Excellent, good job, glad to hear the new thermistor fixed it.

    Thanks for the update!

    Today I received the Thermistor part No.WP8577274 on the mail. First thing I did was checked for continuity with my multimeter. No sound. No nothing. I said WTF?...wait another 10 days for another thermistor to come...no way! (Please, try to figure out my face of desperation)
    Thermistors don't show continuity, they ohm per temperature.

    I think you missed this from my post above:
    At room temperature or 70*F the thermistor should show between 11.5K and 11.9K ohms (11,500 -11,900 ohms).
    At 80 degrees F. - it should be between 8.5K ohms and 10.5K ohms.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  10. #10
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    Thank You for the input.
    Do you have any idea why now the Thermal Cut-Off fuse is blowing? Since yesterday I had to replaced it twice. I think perhaps is due to no being an original part but aftermarket but don't know what to think of.
    Thank You Jake.

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