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Thread: Samsung DV42H5000GW/A3 Gas Dryer No Heat

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
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    Brookfield, IL
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    Default Samsung DV42H5000GW/A3 Gas Dryer No Heat

    Model Number: DV42H5000GW
    Brand: Samsung
    Age: 1-5 years

    I've basically decided the problem MUST be the main PCB, but I'm open to suggestions.

    Samsung DV42H5000GW/A3 Gas Dryer will not heat. It runs without error codes but does not heat. Igniter does not glow.

    So far I have checked:

    1. Igniter resistance within spec.
    2. Radiant Sensor has continuity
    3. Hi temp cutoff has continuity
    4. No voltage to high temp cutoff/Igniter. Voltage measured from ground to rule out losing neutral through centrifugal switch on motor.
    5. Gas Valve Coil resistance within spec.

    So, it seems like the issue is that it is not getting voltage from the PCB. The one thing I did not check was the resistance through the thermisters but I would expect a Te error code if they had failed.

    Should I go ahead and order the PCB or go back and check the thermisters (or something else?)?

    THANKS!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    22,742

    Default

    Hi,

    DV42H5000GW/A3
    I found DV42H5000GW/A3-0000 DV42H5000GW/A3-0001 DV42H5000GW/A3-0002 DV42H5000GW/A3-0003 DV42H5000GW/A3-01 DV42H5000GW/A3-02 DV42H5000GW/A3-03

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid
    Yeah I've got O.C.D.....Old, Cranky and Dangerous.
    Tip of the day, set your Samsung Smart Fridge to a foreign language so Google can't spy on you!!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Brookfield, IL
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    Default

    Hi Jeff. I don’t see any suffix on the model number. I guess that means it’s -0000? 2014.08 date.

    Update: I replaced the PCB but the problem is the same. Thermistor reads 15 kohm but it’s cold in the basement so that seems right. I checked the heating relay during operation, it stays open, like the dryer is not calling for heat.

    I also shorted across the heater connector and it fired right up. So, it’s not a problem in the heater. Just for some reason it’s not asking for heat. I’m stumped.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    Default

    I replaced the PCB but the problem is the same
    What part# did you replace?

    I also shorted across the heater connector and it fired right up.
    ?Heater connector? The relay?

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid
    Yeah I've got O.C.D.....Old, Cranky and Dangerous.
    Tip of the day, set your Samsung Smart Fridge to a foreign language so Google can't spy on you!!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Brookfield, IL
    Posts
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jeff1 View Post

    ?Heater connector? The relay?
    Yep. I removed the plug from the heater relay and shorted across it, sending line voltage to the heater circuit. Also, the heater fires in the “smart install” test mode.

    I did finally figure out the problem. It was a bad contact on one of the two centrifugal motor switch poles. Although it was not the pole that supplies the neutral to the heater circuit, but the pole that runs from the door switch to the PCB (switch terminals 5 & 6 on the wiring diagram).

    Photo of the opened switch is after repair. The little metal contact stud on the flexible copper reed had fallen out and was loose in the switch housing. I was able to reinsert the stud and deform it with a few taps to keep it snug. Probably not a permanent fix but it’s working now with the original logic board.

    I’m not sure what the purpose of that 2nd pole is, but apparently the logic board will not energize the heat relay without it. And another part of the mystery is that apparently the smart install test ignores this switch.

    Click image for larger version. 

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