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Thread: Kitchenaid Double Wall Ovens/Electrical smell/buzzing sound/F9E0 error

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2016
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    Bucks County, PA
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    8

    Default Kitchenaid Double Wall Ovens/Electrical smell/buzzing sound/F9E0 error

    Model Number: KODE307ESS00
    Brand: KitchenAid
    Age: 1-5 years

    Error code: F9E0 ("Product not wired correctly")

    Electric Burning odor, then loud "buzzing/whirring" sound when CANCEL to shut off.

    Kitchenaid Double 30" wall ovens, model KODE307ESS00
    Installed/New about 3 years ago


    Ok, so my wife's doing Christmas baking and had the top oven on for about 4 hours. She called me into the kitchen and said she smelled an electrical odor. I could barely smell it, but told her to turn the oven off (CANCEL on the upper oven) as I ran to the cellar to throw the break off on my subpanel. As I was going down, she said she hear a loud "buzzing/whirring" sound that she claimed wasn't the fan.

    Next, I inspected all cabling... behind the cabinet drawer under the ovens and in the cellar coming out of the subpanel. All cables looked normal and felt cool to the touch. Their was no sign of them having been overloaded.

    I then turned the breaker back on and tried to set the top oven to 350F... and got the F9E0 error code. It was the same when I tried the lower oven... so whatever the problem is, it is affecting both ovens. (So... NOT either of the control boards?) I tried this a few times--same error.

    I then shut off the breaker for safety.

    I should say that I've been doing my own electrical work for over 40 years... this was a neat, clean install. Large junction box installed behind the oven... large wire nuts used to make connections (very tight)... cables secured all throughout the run.


    All the electronics in this model are above the top oven and it seems that any repairs must be done by uninstalling the ovens from the cabinet. Which is my hellish problem... it's installed about 2" from a wall and window with a radiator under the window that is about 6" taller than the bottom of the lower oven. What a pain this will be for a repairman!

    Advice... any ideas on what component it could be?


    New info:

    The oven's breaker has been shut for over an hour...

    I just turned on the breaker again so I could run the diagnostics (CANCEL+CANCEL=START) to see if there were any other error codes in its memory that we missed previously (there aren't). I then turned on the upper oven to 350F and to my surprise the error didn't show up... it continued to preheat for a couple of minutes. I tried the same on the lower oven--no error.

    Could it be that the thermal fuse might have somehow melted and caused a short which might have caused the F9E0 error? (If so, this would be a simpler repair since I'd only have to slide the unit out a few inches to get to it. (I'm hoping for something simple, I know!)

    Still, I'm not going to use it until I know for certain it's safe.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    McMullen Valley, Arizona
    Posts
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    Hi,

    Could it be that the thermal fuse might have somehow melted and caused a short which might have caused the F9E0 error?
    No, if that was the case, then the oven would not start heating again until you pressed the RESET button on it, or replaced the thermal fuse.

    I located the service manual for your model: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Rt...rkMH7OiK6e9hxe

    Go to component access and you will see a camcorder icon, just click that and you will see a video that tells you to pull the unit out 12 inches to get access to your parts behind the console control panel.

    Its likely the electrical smell was the wires in there, so check all your wires behind the console control panel and check the main control board which is behind the console control panel too.

    Make sure the breaker is OFF first before doing that.

    Let us know what you find.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Bucks County, PA
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Thanks for the reply, Jake.

    Is there a reset button? The only reference I found about resetting was to shut down the power to the unit for several minutes and then turn back on.

    BTW... today obviously the oven was cool, so I turned on the breaker again and did a test. I fired up the oven to 350F and left it for an hour. No electrical burning smell, no error messages. The oven seemed to be regulating temp OK. Am I correct in thinking since obviously the ovens ARE getting power that the F9E0 errors is some sort of glitch?

    And THANK YOU for that video link. It really helped show me that perhaps it IS possible to pull out the unit and remove the top metal cover to check (at least visually) for any heat damage on wiring. It also showed me that if there is any problem behind the rear panel, I'd have to get a two man repair crew to get the thing out of the cabinet.

    I just measured: I have about 17" clearance to slide the unit forward without removing it entirely. The video showed that the metal cover over the control boards is only 12" deep... plus the 3-4 inches for the trim in front, and I should have enough room to slide out enough to inspect. I just wish I had more experience with electronics and testing specific components. (I'm great with electric... electronics, not so much). The service tech brochure I have showed a list of things to check on the control boards and voltages/ohms, etc.... but I've never tested an electronics component before. All I can really do is a visual check in there.

    Also, I wish the built-in diagnostics were more "smart" to trace down what and where the thing is mis-baving. All they give is the error code... and in this case, doesn't make much sense (since my test today showed everything working OK.)

    The other thought I had is that it might be a faulty "oven shutdown thermal fuse"... that gave the error yesterday and prevented us from starting the ovens again while they were hot. But of course, to swap that, I'd have to pull the whole unit completely out of the cabinet.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Bucks County, PA
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    Update:

    This morning I pulled the ovens our enough to access the panel and control boards. I did a visual inspection and couldn't find any melted/damaged components or melted/burned cables.

    I could also see into the back top corner of the cabinet where I mounted my junction box... the feed to it looks perfect--just like the day I installed it. No heat or burn marks on or around the box. The metal shielded cable that connects the unit to my power also looked pristine... no melting or carbon marks around the shielding.

    The thermal fuse looked fine. A real mystery. Everything looks like new in there.

    ??

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    McMullen Valley, Arizona
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    No, I don't see a RESET button on it.

    Here's your high-limit thermostat for your model that's located in the very back of your oven:
    WP4449751 Thermostat


    Here's the thermal fuse for your model that's located behind the console control panel:
    WPW10545291 Fuse-Thrml



    A real mystery.
    Yes, I agree. Was it hot in the kitchen when the oven was on 4 hours? Does your fan vent to the outside of your house to blow the hot air outside?

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Bucks County, PA
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    Not hot... just warm from my wife baking multiple batches of Xmas cookies. Sad to say, we don't have a vent fan. I think she had the kitchen window open. In any event, the thing works fine the last real test I did. I'll make certain the error is cleared from memory... everything looks clean inside, so I'm buttoning it back up this afternoon. We'll "test" it with small meals this week... no more than 375/45 minutes. Then we'll pay attention for any odd burning odors.

  7. #7
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    McMullen Valley, Arizona
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    Ok, yes that's what I was going to suggest is to have a window open in the kitchen when the oven is on that long, the colder it is in the kitchen the better.

    Unfortunately they don't use quality insulation like they did in the 1970's for ovens anymore.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

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