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Thread: 110.60942990 Kenmore Elite - On going overheating issues

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
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    Angry 110.60942990 Kenmore Elite - On going overheating issues

    Model Number: 110.60942990
    Brand: Sears Kenmore
    Age: 6-10 years

    Short version
    - I'm regularly tripping the Heating Element Thermal Cut Off, even after replacing multiple parts.

    Kenmore Elite 110.60942990 Electric Clothes Dryer


    Long Version

    -About a year ago I had no heat, tested and verified the heater element was bad. Replaced that and all was well.
    -A few weeks after that I replaced the plastic flex hose with a metal one. This was recommended during my home inspection a few years prior, and the plastic one had a few holes in it so I finally got around to replacing it. Still running fine.
    -Fast forward 4-5 months and I have no heat on any setting. Do some research and verify everything tests fine except the thermal cut off. I found the throw it at the ground trick works well to reset it, and I have heat back! Knowing something caused it to trip, I pulled apart the entire exhaust duct in the basement and clean it out.
    -The dryer is working for small loads or only running one large load, but if we try and do multiple loads in a day the thermal cut off keeps tripping and we have no heat.
    -Over the next few weekends I have replaced the thermal cut off, along with resetting it multiple times, replaced the main dryer thermal fuse, a second heating element, the first replacement was still working but I thought maybe it was a bad part and running too hot, the high limit thermostat, and put on new felt on the drum. Also verified we are getting enough power out of the wall.
    -The big win was when I replaced the flapper door at the end of the dryer exhaust duct on the outside of the house. The old one was probably original to the house and much stiffer to move than the new one. That almost fixed it, but after two weeks of running fine the thermal cut off tripped again.
    -I reset it and left the toe panel off the front of the machine to keep an eye on the heating element to see when it would not turn on and low and behold it has been running fine for two weeks now. Put the toe panel back on and it will trip the thermal cut off within a couple loads
    -My next thought is the blower wheel is not moving enough air and the cabinet is eventually heat soaking which trips the cut off switch. The wheel on there spins freely and I don't feel any lash in it, but at this point I have already replaced parts that tested fine so whats one more..

    My wife is ready to throw in the towel.. into a new dryer that is! Is there something that I over looked that I should have checked / replaced? I have a little one and am planning on selling this house soon so I cannot just leave the toe panel off forever, and am getting closed to the point where a new dryer just to end the headaches makes sense.

    Thoughts?

  2. #2
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    Default

    Hi,

    Lets first clean out the lint duct. Unplug your dryer first!

    Here's the parts diagram for your model:
    (click to enlarge)
    Click image for larger version. 

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    #45 is your lint duct, remove the two #3 screws to remove that lint duct, then clean it out thoroughly and see if that solves it.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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  3. #3
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    Default

    45 is definitely clean, I have been removing that to get too the thermal cut off easier each time I need to reset it. I have also scrubbed the lint filter with water, I didnít mention that earlier. The only part of the lint ďpathĒ that I havenít gotten into yet is #44. Not sure if that area normally accumulates lint or not.

  4. #4
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    Aug 2004
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    Default

    #44 is the blower wheel housing, that shouldn't be clogged, as long as the blower wheel is free of lint.

    How long is your vent run? And where does it exit to, the side of your house?

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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  5. #5
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    Itís flex line out the back of the dryer and down into the basement, then a turn and a 10í run out the side of the house.

    The flex line is maybe 3í long with a 90* out the back, and another 90* turn down into the basement. Then itís connect to a long radius adjustable elbow to 90* to the straight run out of the house.

    The flex line seems like it might be a little tight of a turn, but Iím pretty sure itís in the same position as the plastic flex I replaced.

    https://flic.kr/p/Qr87rX

    https://flic.kr/p/S4m4K5

  6. #6
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    Yes, I saw the photos, it looks fine.

    Did you check the blower wheel housing seals?

    #60 That part # is WP697770.

    #62 That part # is WP8566209.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  7. #7
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    You may be onto something. #60 is pretty much gone, just some foamy bits stuck to the adhesive, #62 looks fine on the top end, but the bottom is smashed flat and not springing back. #7 also looks pretty sad, not much foam left along the middle.

    Would those let out enough heat to overheat the cabinet?

    https://flic.kr/p/23A7jNZ


    EDIT:

    Looking at it now all assembled there is a 1/16" - 1/8" gap on the bottom half of part #52. I'd guess because 2/3'rds of that ring is not supported all the foam has been slowly blown out. Would replacing the seals and then putting some high temp aluminum tape on the bottom half of that ring to help seal it up be a good way to go?
    Last edited by Pothole; January 13th, 2019 at 07:04 PM.

  8. #8
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    Would replacing the seals and then putting some high temp aluminum tape on the bottom half of that ring to help seal it up be a good way to go?
    Yes.

    Also check both the front and rear felt seals #27 to make sure those are not worn out, that also keeps the air inside the drum.

    Here they are:
    Felt Seal 280114


    There's a video on how to access/replace it when you click the part link to it.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  9. #9
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    Iíve already replaced the #27 seals, hopefully these other seals do that trick. Should be here in a couple days.

    Thanks for all the help!

  10. #10
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    Default

    Ok, sounds good.

    Yes, keep us posted.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

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