7 post 6 wire lid lock problems Whirlpool Washer WTW6700TU1

[Timehunter]

Model Number

WTW6700TU1

Brand

Whirlpool

Age

6-10 years

Problems,problems......
While washing a load, I guess it got unbalanced and stopped.
Went to restart and all it would do is make a bunch of clicking noises.
Now it will not even do that.
After unplugging and letting sit for a few, plug back in, hit power button, everything lights up like normal.
Now it will not even make any noise.
Hit start and everything starts blinking and nothing will work or quit blinking until unplugged and plugged back in.
I pulled the lid lock off and took it apart and hooked 12vdc to the motor and it works.
Put it back together and installed and still same problem.
I have searched a lot and can not find any tech sheets or info for my particular lid lock.
Or my machine with that particular lid lock.
It has a 7 pin wire holder with 6 wires in it.
I did find one tech sheet with the same configuration but not the same color wires.
Mine are: white, brown, black, green, green, red.
Lid lock assembly part# is: W10059230.
I went ahead and ordered a new lid lock and should be here monday, but...I do not think that is my problem.

Does anyone have any ideas ?
I pulled the clothes out and it is sitting with a bunch of water in it now.
Help!!

 

[Jake]

I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below, on Page 1 do--->ACTIVATION OF AUTOMATIC DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODE and see what fault code you get.

You didn't try to bypass the lid switch did you? On these newer machines you can't do that or you will blow out the main control board.

Here's the lid switch latch assembly for your model:
WPW10619844 Latch

 

[Timehunter]

Thank you, Thank you, for your reply and the tech sheet!!!!
No, I did not try to bypass as from my research I found out what you said about blowing the control board.
Interesting that lid lock switch can have a bearing on so many different circuits and what trying to bypass does.
I am also trying to get other stuff done and will post what I came up with.
I live out in the country and "try" to keep my online stuff down to an hour or so early in the morning.
Dang washing machine!!!

 

[Timehunter]

Well heck.....
New lid lock did not help.
Did diagnostic and have code F32.
Did test #7 and the water fill would work but not the drain pump.
Checked ohms and recirculating pump tested good at 35 ohms from a range of 30-38 ohms.
But had a little higher resistance on the drain pump of 18.2 ohms from a range 10.5-14 ohms.
Would 4.2 ohms really make that much of a difference?
That is where I am at now.
Fixing to get back to the techsheet and see what else I can do.

Any thoughts are welcome!!!

 

[Jake]

F32 is LONG DRAIN
Ld flashes when the water level does not change after the drain pump is on.
➔ Is the drain hose or the drain pump clogged?
➔ Is the drain hose height greater than 96"?
➔ Is the pressure hose connection from the tub to the machine/motor control pinched, kinked, plugged or leaking air?
➔ Is the pump running? If not, see TEST #7, page 6

Would 4.2 ohms really make that much of a difference?

Yes, also remove the drain pump and check for any foreign objects in it that may be partially clogging it.

Here's the drain pump for your model:
Drain Pump W10536347


Watch this video to access/replace it.

 

[Timehunter]

Again, thank you for your time and reply.
We live in a semi-sandy area and I am thinking that might be what the problem is in clogging the pump.
Don't know why it would happen now as it has not caused any problems like that in the past.
Drain hose height is around the top of the control console.
Nothing kinked or leaking.
Having a really late start this morning...dang....
Will post when I have found out anything.

 

[Jake]

Ok, let us know what you find.