• ** REMEMBER! **The microwave can still shock you even unplugged!!

    ALWAYS discharge the high-voltage capacitor first if you even think your hands will come close to any HIGH VOLTAGE components.

    Jeff mentions this: Anything in the high voltage ( magnetron, capacitor, diode, wires to and from ):
    ...Use a metal ( not the shiny chrome type ) screw driver with a insulated handle to short across ( touch both at the same time ) the terminals of the high voltage capacitor to discharge it.

    From Jeff's site: http://www.applianceaid.com/component-testing.php

    Jake

FIXED 721.85039111 Microwave makes a loud buzzing noise when door is closed

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Bugalicious

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I have a similar problem with Drew's microwave, but I was wondering is it ok if I don't replace the circuit board and leave the problem as is.
 

jeff1

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I have a similar problem with Drew's microwave, but I was wondering is it ok if I don't replace the circuit board and leave the problem as is.
Hi,

You mean leave the problem where someone may accidentally turn on the magnetron/microwave with nothing inside or worse yet no one in the kitchen area to catch it?!?
Doesn't seem like a good plan to me...JMO!

jeff.
 

Bugalicious

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Thanks Jeff for a quick reply, we leave the microwave door open due to the annoying sound it keeps emitting when the door is close but would that be consider as a bad idea as well?
 

jeff1

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Maybe block the door so someone can't accidentally close the door at some point without you knowing.

jeff.
 

dstraus

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Same thing with my Kenmore Elite #405.74229310; it's about 2 years old. Started doing this today when I closed the door the microwave runs and even warmed up a grilled cheese sandwich for me, but the lights didn't work and the tray didn't turn. Wife needed to heat some potatoes, so we put them in and the microwave started; I pushed the button to cook a few minutes and seems to work normal. Took it apart and checked all three switches with a multi-meter on 200K ohms;got a 1 when they were open and 00.0 when they were closed. What is my next step? Thanks
 

jeff1

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Hi,

What is my next step?
Make sure the door key operates the switches.
Upper one should be open and closes then the door is closed.
Middle one is closed and opens when the door is closed.
Lower one should be open and closes then the door is closed.

If all checks ok, the pcboard is the suspect :(

Most parts for this unit are not available.

jeff.
 

dstraus

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Thanks for the quick response!

Yes, that is how I checked with the multi-meter. With the wires disconnected and the meter attached with alligator clips, I shut the door and got a change from 1 to 0.00 or vice-versa for each switch.

If I called Sears to come and repair it, they would have the board wouldn't they? Guess they have not made it available to the common man...... Maybe I can give Sears a call to see if they will tell me what it is? It's made for other microwaves, so it must be out there somewhere. Do you know who makes my model microwave?

Thanks!
 

jeff1

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jeff1

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Your welcome :)

jeff.
 

Karen Ward

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I have a Maytag model MMV4203DB00 microwave that has had this happen twice. I paid Sears to come out and troubleshoot the problem...I replaced the board behind the push button panel...and now the same thing just happened. Does this model or every model have this happen frequently, or is it just my bad luck?
 

jeff1

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Hi,

Does this model or every model have this happen frequently, or is it just my bad luck?
Nope....seems so yes :(

jeff.
 

shannong

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My frigidaire microwave (Model# FMV152KSA) has started doing this. When microwave is off and door is closed, it hums just as the video in this thread showed and light comes on but turntable does not turn and it does not appear to be heating. I also noticed that when I do operate it, the food is being cooked 1000 times quicker. I am not sure if I need the magnetron or control board or a new microwave. I also tried to find a schematic that shows where those items are located to even try to replace them. What am I missing? Also the door latch has always been a pain in the rear. it is very tight and you have to pull very hard to open and push hard to close. What is up with that?
 

tholland-1

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OK, I am going to pile on here - but seemingly with a different machine. I have a GE Profile PVM9195SF3SS microwave made in July 2015. The same thing seems to have happened - humming was heard and the inside of the microwave was really hot. Humming stops when door is opened but starts right up again when you close the door. Power cycled a few times and let is cool overnight....but same thing in the AM. The display asks me to set time when first plugged in which I do....but then when I try to start the microwave using the quick starts keys (1 thru 5) or time cook it asks me to insert food. All the time this is happening the microwave is heating a glass of water I placed in the center...but the tray is not rotating, fan is not running, etc. Not sure if this seems to point to the board or door switches? Appreciate any help on this one!
thanks,

- Tim
 

rickgburton

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Hi Tim, looks like I missed shannong's post. That sometimes happens when someone piggy backs on another thread. You both have the same problem. Here's the part you need:
WB56X20629 PCB MAIN ASSEMBLY
ge-pcb-main-asm-wb56x20629-ap5792085_01_m.jpg
 

tholland-1

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Thanks Rick! So this issue points to the main board as the culprit. Are you able to point to any repair manuals or instructions for this machine. It is mounted above the stove so not sure if I need to pull it to perform the repair and the exact sequence of part removal to get to the main board assy. Appreciate any pointers to docs or guidance on this.

Thanks again!

- Tim
 

tholland-1

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Thanks Rick! I was able to access the main board easy enough. My concern is that when I check the Appliance Compatibility Tool the part shown does not show as compatible with the GE PVM9195SF3SS? It certainly looks like the same board. It states "Part Number WB56X20629 (AP5792085) replaces PS8755571, 3027551. "...but my part # appears to be DE92-03560A (took the #s ff the label on the board, but also saw the 92-03560A printed on the PCB? It is not clear that this is the right board so appreciate any guidance.

Thanks again!

- Tim
 

tholland-1

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Rick,

You were right on, the APP contact actually told me to ignore the Appliance Compatibility Tool as it gave incorrect data. The WB56X20629 board assy was the one as you stated. I installed it and all is back to normal! Thanks so much for the excellent debug and advice. One quick question - what wattage are the 2x G-8 bulbs supposed to bE

Than
ks again!
- Tim
 
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