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FIXED 790.48832900 Kenmore oven has power but won't turn on

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StevekTexas

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2020
Messages
6
Location
Texas
Model Number
790.48832900
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
6-10 years
My Kenmore 790.48832900 built in oven stopped working - first indication was a burning electronics odor and display went off. I thought it was the control board, but after replacing that, still no luck. I checked the power and am getting 120V on the L2 input to the control board (I don't believe I have power on the L1 input to the control board - not sure if that is supposed to be hot or not). The interior of the oven also has an odor of burnt electronics.

Any suggestions on other parts that may be broken and are required for the oven controller to function?

I wouldn't think a faulty heating element or temperature sensor would cause this problem.

It's a built-in oven and I was hoping to avoid having to pull it out and I was hoping to avoid needing to have a repair technician come to my (now self-isolated) home.

Thanks,

Steve
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
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Jul 11, 2006
Messages
37,999
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Check for 220 VAC across L2-IN and L1 on the EOC. If the voltage is not correct measure the voltage where the power line connects to the machine.
3 and 4 wire power cord.jpg
 

StevekTexas

Premium Member
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Mar 24, 2020
Messages
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Location
Texas
Hi Rick,

Thank you very much - I pulled the oven out, removed the back cover and found the problem immediately. The black power wire (L1 input) had burned through inside the oven back panel but before it reached the bus bar - see photo below. Scorched insulation across a few wires (the yellow wires are damaged) and the black wire is completely severed. While I could replace the damaged wires, my concern is that something in the oven malfunctioned, causing a large surge in current - which could happen again if I just repair the wiring. It's also possible that the controller was at fault and if I replace the controller as well, then all will be good (and I have a new controller).

Do you have an opinion on whether this is repairable or whether we are better off buying a new oven? The unit is less than 6 years old, so that kind of fries me...

If I replace the oven, I would also want to replace the conduit-ed wiring harness that goes to back wall (wires look fine at the other end of the harness, but I haven't tried to inspect the wires in the conduit. Is that harness something that typically comes with a new oven purchase - or is it sold separately...

Thanks you again for your assistance,

Steve

20200325_093939.jpg
 

StevekTexas

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2020
Messages
6
Location
Texas
Thanks Rick - I'll try that. Any reason to believe that it won't happen again? (e.g. any guesses based on experience why it happened this time - wire fatigue?)

Steve
 

StevekTexas

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2020
Messages
6
Location
Texas
Yep got that. Under further inspection, it looks like the problem might have started at one of the connectors to the bottom heating element. The tab is pretty fried so I think I'll replace that too.

Many thanks,

Steve
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Joined
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Messages
37,999
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
That's what it looked like to me also. The wire probably got hot from resting on the bake element terminal and melted then shorted.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
109,171
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes Steve,

You will need to replace the bake element as well, the right terminal looks very burnt and it will be impossible to put a new wire terminal spade on it like that.

Here's the bake element for your model:
318254906 Bake Element


Jake
 

StevekTexas

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2020
Messages
6
Location
Texas
Thanks Jake and Rick. The new bake element should be arriving today (shocked that it is that fast). I've finished the wiring splice for the bake element (shown in photo below). Any objections about the plastic jacket on the new yellow lug or using the red twist wire connector for the splice? The black electrical tape is only for strain relief - I could use a plastic cable tie instead if that is a better option.

Thanks again for all of your advice - it's nice to have some experience looking over your shoulder.

Steve
 

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StevekTexas

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2020
Messages
6
Location
Texas
BTW - thanks Jake and Rick. All replacement parts arrived, I installed them, and the oven works again.

Much appreciated!

Steve
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Aug 24, 2004
Messages
109,171
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Excellent Steve. (y)

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 
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