FIXED 790.95073310 Kenmore Induction Range Stopped Working

HeidiH

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Jun 15, 2018
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Location
HI
Model Number
790.95073310
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
1-5 years
I have a Item # 02295073000P Model # 790.95073310 Kenmore Elite 6.1 cu. ft. Freestanding Induction Range. We moved it and plugged it into the outlet. All lights lit blue for a second or so, then the clock display blinked 1200. So I pressed the numbers to set the time, which went well then I pressed start as prompted to finalize the setting. Poof, everything went black. No power.

Turned the breaker off, unplugged for a few minutes, plugged in again, turned on Breaker, still nothing, all black on the control panel. Turned the dials, no response.

Removed back panel, plug terminal block looks fine, no burns... No loose connections to the controller panel.

Appreciate any troubleshooting advice... Thanks!
 
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Jake

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Hi,

I'd first use my multimeter to see what the voltage is to your range, check for 240 volts at the range terminal block ACROSS the two OUTER terminals on the terminal block, you should read about 240 volts.

The middle terminal on the terminal block is NEUTRAL.

This is the mulitmeter I use: Multimeter.

Jake
 

Jake

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Ok, sounds good.

Jake
 

HeidiH

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Checked the voltage at the terminal block, it's good... 240 hot to hot (end to end) and 120 for hot to neutral. Tested the input to the Power Supply and its good at 120 volts. However the output of the supply is too low.
 

HeidiH

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Seems like I need a new power supply board... But would a bad board cause all power to cease working? Even the oven light?
 

Jake

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Ok,

1. Check for 120 volts AC at the power supply board connector P1 between pins 1 and 4. Test harness if voltage is not present.<----You already did this test?
2. Test for 8 volts DC output at the power supply board connector P3 between Pins 1 and 2. Replace power supply board if voltage is not correct.
3. Test for 16 volts DC at output at power supply board connector P3 between Pins 1 and 3. Replace power supply board if voltage is not correct.

Here's the power supply board you can order if the voltage is not correct:
316435703 Board


Jake
 

HeidiH

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Oops... Think I blew it... I measured the output at the harnesses... Needed to measure it from the connector on the board. The Range is at a friend's house, about 25 miles away from me, so I will have to check it again later. It was transported to her place lying on its back... Oven door up... Could that be the cause of the damage... So many control boards in the back.
 

HeidiH

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Any tips on how to measure at the power supply board connector? I don't know that the tips of my multi meter will fit inside....

Yes I did find 120 at the harness... Didn't measure on the board as I am unsure where or how to position the leads...
 

Jake

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Just pull the electrical connector up from the power supply board just a tad, so your meter probes can touch the metal pins.:)

It was transported to her place lying on its back...
That's not a good idea, it should always stand upright when transported.:)

Did you remove the entire back access panel to see if you notice any broken wires or any broken parts?

Jake
 

HeidiH

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Thanks for the tip on how to measure , will do that as soon as we can arrange another time to meet at her place, which has been tricky.

Yes I did remove the entire back panel and checked the connections... They all seemed fine no burning or broken...

Thanks again.
 

HeidiH

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If the power control board tests good, what would be the next step and/or thing to test... Being that the stove is 25 miles away, I would like to line up some future tests just in case to speed the process along. Thank you!
 

Jake

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I would need the complete model number first, your missing the last 3 numbers. The model number tag is on the bottom right side leg frame once you pull out the storage drawer.

Here's the results I get:

790.95073310
790.95073311
790.95073312
790.95073313
790.95073314
790.95073315

That Power Board's only job is to power up the User Interface, so if the User Interface is blank and no numbers show on it, then It's most likely that Power Board that's bad, since your getting 120 volts to it, but STILL do the volt test I posted on the previous page to VERIFY that.:)

On the J3 connector on your main clock oven control board you can also check for 120 volts between pins 8 and 6

Then the oven light works on Pin 3 of that J3 connector, you can check for 120 volts there too.

The oven light bulb may have broken during the move, if you get 120 volts on Pin 3.

Jake
 

HeidiH

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Thanks! I will check what you have suggested as well as get the complete model number where you specified. Thank you very much!
 

Jake

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Glad to help, yes please let us know.

Jake
 

HeidiH

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Finally got back to check the Range. Part Number is 790.95073310. Looks like the Power Control Board is bad as we measured zero volts on both Pins 1 and 2 as well Pin 1 and 3.
 
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HeidiH

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On the J3 connector on the main clock oven control board we got 120 volts between pins 8 and 6. But we got 0 Volts between pins 8 and 3 (oven light)... Does this maybe mean something else is broken?
 
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HeidiH

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Just Ordered the Power Board from the link you provided earlier. Now all that's left is to wait for its arrival and cross our fingers that the board was the only one damaged in the move. Thanks again for your help!
 

Jake

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Looks like the Power Control Board is bad as we measured zero volts on both Pins 1 and 2 as well Pin 1 and 3.
Yup, then it has to be the power control board that's the culprit.

But we got 0 Volts between pins 8 and 3 (oven light)
Did you press the light switch button to turn the oven light on when you measured that voltage?

Jake
 
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