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FIXED 795.72043112 Recurring Error code Er rF

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rickgburton

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Parts diagram shows a damper motor. I don't have any service information for that model. Locate your tech sheet.
Snapshot_2.jpg
 

Spartikurt

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Interesting about the damper motor. I saw that on the parts diagram Sears supplied me also. I am wondering if I missed seeing the fan when I took the back panel off. Doesn't sound right but I've missed more obvious things in the past.

When I defrosted the large chunks of ice from the coils with a hair dryer it started working fine again. I fixed the cause but not the root cause. I'm sure it'll happen again. Now I'm starting to believe it is a faulty defrost system not the fan (wherever that ends up being) which caused the ice build up which caused the fresh food section not to cool which caused the error code. I'll switch over to another thread to see how to diagnose the defrost system.

Thanks
 

rickgburton

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The defrost system consists of a defrost heater (check it for continuity), defrost controller which is the temperature sensor and the fuse, and main control board. The fuse should show continuity and the sensor at room temperature should read about 11 ohms. If they check good see if it happens again. It may not. If it does, replace the main control board.

Temperature Sensor 6615JB2005R
Temperature-Sensor-6615JB2005R-01802724.jpg
 

Meezy

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I think I am/was having the same issue. I replaced the fan motor assembly and the main control board for a fresh food section that wasn't cooling on an LG refrigerator and after putting it all together yesterday I see an f dS (defrost sensor) code. I believe that this may have been the initial issue that compounded into the other parts failing. Once the sensor went out, the fan ran with ice build up and burnt the motor, which in turn sent signal to the board that caused the switch to fail there. Just a theory but I have ordered the part and will put it in in the next few days. Tangentially (but maybe connected) the ice maker in the door for my model (LG LFX 33975ST) stopped working as well around the time things were going bad. I'm hoping that once the sensor is replaced things will be back up an running. Any advisement here?
 

rickgburton

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Check and see if there is ice in the ice mold. Check the temperature in the ice compartment, it needs to be below 10*. The ice fan in the freezer could be causing it not to work. If replacing the parts doesn't fix the ice problem let me know.
 

ChickenPhish

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So I have read this thread about 20 times in the past 24 hours trying to figure out what is happening on my LFX33975ST/05. I am also receiving the "Er rF" error and have done the "test 1" test after resetting the ref. When I did that, I was able to notice that the fans in the fresh food area, ice fan, and freezer fan all seemed to be blowing as I would expect. However, I do not have a meter to test the electric on the PCB board.

I went to the AppliancePartsPros.com site and found replacement parts for my model. However, there are 2 parts that are listed. Could someone tell me if one or both are the right part and is one better than the other?

#EBR34917104 and #EBR41956418 and do they both have the same function on LG model #LFX33975ST/05?

Thank you all so much! Rob
 

rickgburton

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Without one you can only guess and replacing parts in hopes one will fix it will get very expensive, very fast. They're not expensive and easy to learn. They come in handy for a lot more than just appliance repair. They start at $10 and go up. You can pick one up at any of the home centers.

This is a good one for $17: Digital Multimeter
 

rickgburton

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You mean through the back of the connector? Very few will fit in through the connectors. You'll either need to buy adapters for your test leads or improvise. It's a lot easier to improvise and it's less expensive. Here's what I do:
Safety Pin On Test Lead.jpgSafety pin.jpg
 

ChickenPhish

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Interesting this morning. All the of items in the bottom half of the fresh food area are frozen solid and things on the top shelves are not very cold. I am starting to think it is the fan. Also, the temp in the ice maker is 20*
 

ChickenPhish

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If the fan is working measure the voltage drop between 1-2 and 1-3 of the CON6 connector. If the voltage is less than 12 VDC between 1-2 replace the board EBR75234705 Pcb Assembly,main

If the voltage is 0 VDC or 5 VDC replace the fan motor. EAU61505013 Motor,dc
View attachment 24744

So I have my multimeter now....and excuse me for being a noob at these things, I have never played with one before, but I am in need of assistance here.

Can anyone give me a quick "how-to" on the multimeter to test the CON6 connector? Do I unplug the connector and stick the single small probe in each of the 1/2/3 holes and record the measurements I get from those holes?

Again, sorry, never used one.
 
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ChickenPhish

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Well, since the cheapest service call I can get is in the $300-$400 range, I went ahead and purchased both the board and fan. Now, I know how to replace the board, but do you guys have any steps on how to replace the fan?
 

rickgburton

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1. Remove the freezer drawer.

2. Remove the plastic guide for slides on left side by unscrewing phillips head screws.

3. Remove the grille assembly by removing four screws and pulling the grille assembly forward.

4. Remove the Fan Motor assembly by loosening 3 screws and disassembling the shroud.

5. Pull out the fan and separate the Fan Motor and Bracket Motor.
 

Meezy

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Rick,

I replaced the defrost sensor earlier today and after a few hours I got the same thing: F dS error code, no cooling in freezer, no cooling in Fresh Food section. I have replaced the board, the fan motor, and now the defrost thermostat. Is there something I have done wrong or missed? Might be time to call in a pro.
 

rickgburton

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Is there something I have done wrong....
Besides purchasing an LG refrigerator? Did you test the defrost sensor before you replaced it? Just because you replaced the board it doesn't mean that replacing the sensor for a E dS error will fix it. Is that is the only error you are getting? Measure the resistance between the two orange wires in the connector and the two brown wires in the other connector . Then measure between the two brown wires in CON7 on the board.
Snapshot_2.jpgSnapshot_3.jpg

If either measurement reads shorted (0 ohms) replace the sensor. If either measurement reads open (1)..... If I tell you, you won't believe me so here's a snapshot from the manual:
Snapshot_1.jpg
 
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